1. Will it help if I buy a Board boss for my builder? He said that he did not need any special tools to lay down the deck.

I found it helpful, the wood is pretty tough to "bend back" without one. Cheap investment

2. My builder suggested we use 5/4 x 4" planks because they do not cup as much as the 6". What are everyones thoughts on that.

I think the 4" planks do not look as nice and if your screwing thought he face and have ventiallation, ou will be happier with the wider boards

3. What is everyones opinion on the board lengths? There will be a lot of lines on the with these size planks.

I would opt for the longer boards. it also cuts down on the framing if he doubles the joists at the joints.

4. My builder likes to round the ends, would you recommend this for an ipe deck?

depends on wha round the edges means. Its good to hit he edges with a sander or small router.

5. It seems that the consensus is that we should not seal the ends with anchor seal but only apply the stain we choose. Whether it be TWP or Penofin.

you may continue to get different answers on that one. We used it on the decks we have and it was no problem. I have no experience not using it

6. Should I let the wood acclimate at the lumber yard, in my garage, or outside. Monsoon season has rolled in.

I live in a coastal environment - higher humidity/fog/rain and had no issues with installation or movement. It's been in for a couple years now

7. Wood is housed in Denver, we are in Telluride. Higher elevation, moister. How long should the wood acclimate?

8. Does everyone plug the screw holes? What is the main advantages/disadvantages of plugging.

Out here (Calif) plugging is the exception - not the norm. It's a fair amount of work and the stainless fasteners have a small "colored" head that tends to blend in. One thing we had to remind ourself as we built he deck is to remember "It's a deck" It will get scratched, birds will put deposits on it, etc.

9. TWP - Does everyone use the 100 series? It looks like they have a new product series 1500. Has anyone used this or the 500 for Ipe?

I have not found the optimal stain - but TWP 500 series and Penofin did not work for me. Looking forward to the answers on the 1500.

Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: IPE info

33'x3' and 33'x7'? They aren't decks...they're walkways.

I have to agree with Salmon slayer on almost every point...he learned his lessons well.

1. Will it help if I buy a Board boss for my builder? He said that he did not need any special tools to lay down the deck.

Get him 2 of them. You'll need short 3/4" black pipe and 3/4" pony clamps clamps too

2. My builder suggested we use 5/4 x 4" planks because they do not cup as much as the 6". What are everyones thoughts on that.

If the boards are installed right, 1x6 is good (or 5/4x6). If you like the look of narrower decking, go for it.

3. What is everyones opinion on the board lengths? There will be a lot of lines on the with these size planks.

Don't, and I repeat...DON'T settle for such short lengths. I can get Ipe up to 20' lengths. Longer boards, less joints. You will have joints. Make sure the builder staggers the joints (in a pattern). He'll also need to size the boards so that all boards in a row are the same width. They come in different widths...anywhere from 5.25" to 5.5".

4. My builder likes to round the ends, would you recommend this for an ipe deck?

I round over every board end with my trim router, to match the radius of the sides.

5. It seems that the consensus is that we should not seal the ends with anchor seal but only apply the stain we choose. Whether it be TWP or Penofin.

I don't use anchorseal. I use Penofin, and flood it on the cut ends.

6. Should I let the wood acclimate at the lumber yard, in my garage, or outside. Monsoon season has rolled in.

I don't acclimate, but it's not a bad idea. I just don't have that luxury, as a deck builder. I pick up my Ipe, and start screwing it down the same day. There are ways to acclimate it correctly. Don't leave it in the sun.

7. Wood is housed in Denver, we are in Telluride. Higher elevation, moister. How long should the wood acclimate?

A few weeks should be good.
I hate that I have to buy Ipe that's been warehoused in a cool place, and install it in a hot, sunny environment. It's like bringing a light skinned person to the beach on a sunny day, and not giving them sunscreen or an umbrella. Sh1t will happen.

8. Does everyone plug the screw holes? What is the main advantages/disadvantages of plugging.

I used to, but I use headcote (http://www.starbornindustries.com/headcote) stainless steel trim screws now, and they are not too hard on the eyes. If it's in your budget, the same company came up with a very nice plugging system called the pro plug system.

9. TWP - Does everyone use the 100 series? It looks like they have a new product series 1500. Has anyone used this or the 500 for Ipe?

I use penofin. You're in snow country. It doesn't matter what you use, you'll have to re-apply on a regular basis...or let it silver.

Good questions...you did your homework.

steve

Ok. thanks for the feedback. Thanks for the link!

Ventilation - Our lower "walkway" covers our front entryway. We quickly put corrugated metal under the walkway when we purchased the unit because the water would drip down onto us whether it was raining or snowing when walking into the condo. The metal does have an angle so water does flow nicely away. Closest point from metal to joist/decking bottom is 1.25"/8.5", furthest distance from metal to joist/decking bottom is 5.25/12.5". It not like there is dirt directly under the walkway.
Do you think this will cause cupping in the 6" wide planks?

I like the idea of the Penofin because they have a natural look where the others do not. What is everyones process? East teak said to coat both sides before install, but John Hyatt mentioned in one post that he does not put on the bottom of the planks, does anyone know the reason why? Anyway, should I coat on before install or after? all sides or just the tops and ends? Should I do in my garage?

I pretty much agree with what's been posted already. The one exception is why are you buying the contractors tools. In my 30+ years, no homeowner has ever purchased tools for me. Dinner or lunch, yes.

I've purchase ipe pre sealed on all 4 sides and saw no difference down the road between that and decks that we sealed when completed.

We have used a lot of Penofin and I love the initial look, unfortunately it only lasts a few months. I'm still searching for the product that lasts on ipe.

Wear a respirator if you seal in the garage or you will die.

Agree with the Dooer pre finish is a waste of time/money. Another reason for me is the use of construstion adhesive when I install South American lumber.

I put this down on the joists not really for the hold down power but to protect the decking from all the water gasing off from the new pt frame in the first few important weeks. Of course if the material was finished on all 4 sides the adhesive would not bond to the joists.

The lastest helper for laying down decking is the Tiger Jaw Instalation Tool, give it a goggle. No more bending over at all. Really great leverage.

TWP 100 series is a build coat finish.With the right app it can last 3/5 years.
J.

Again thanks for all the info. I just spoke with a gentleman out of Northern Texas who ships to my area frequently. Out of all the distributors that I spoke with it sounds like his shipping process is the best/safest. There site is www.edeck.com

He suggested using the Camo hidden fasteners, www.camofasteners.com, as they are hidden and are driven in at a 45 degree angle, which he thought was stronger than going in straight.

He also suggested using Woodrich as a stain.

Thoughts concerns?

The Camo tool might just work several fastener Cos sell a screw They say will drive into ipe without a predrill and cause no stress to the wood. But No going in at an angle is not stronger than going in straight as a blanket fact.

If you notice on most of the Camo videos the " deck " is stationed on a raised platform while the operator is waist level to the material. The JonMon can not see spending that much hard time on my knees forcing the tool down with one hand and driving the screw with the other.

Mabey some of you Young Contractors could get into that but even if you do remember you cause the damage when your young and pay the cost when when your older.

John Hyatt www.deckmastersllc.com

I demoed the Camo tool with some ipe and unfortunately I had some problems with it. I think that it would probably be fine with some other materials, but not ipe. Too hard.

ok thanks everyone. I am going to move onto face screwing with ss screws.

Still working on what to do with stain. I have to get back into all the threads and reread them.

Dooer, the Camo people specifically say it works for ipe. What is the problem? Screws won't penetrate? Or too much build up of sawdust in the jig? I'd really like to give it a try. There is a Kreg jig too, but it requires pre-drilling.

OK Ok. got the wood. looking good! one of the top rails got nailed by a fork lift, company replacing :)

Has anyone heard of epifanes from james town distributors and used it on ipe?

How about Deckclip? any thoughts?

So my contractor wants to use galvanized screws and not SS screws. Would there be any difference, why do most people use SS. He mentioned that the SS has the potential to snap. Then what?

I think we are going to go with the rustic from TWP and go with Johns Hyatt's way.

ONe question I have for JOhn and sTeve is how do you flood the ends when you make a cut?

Deck clips...no
SS screws...yes If he knows what he's doing, he shouldn't be snapping screws. Are you plugging, or face screwing?
If face screwing, use 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" Headcote trim screws

Flood the ends? Just like it sounds. The ends will absorb the sealer, unlike the surface...so give the ends a lot of oil.

steve
www.urbanexteriors.biz

Thanks steve! I just looked over the starborn industries plug system with my wife and then ordered from amazon. Looks like a lot of time savings.

John, if your still checking these posts. I have a question for you. In one of your post your wrote:
"Using counstruction adhesive on the joists will act as protection from all the water leaving the green pt frame in the first few important weeks after installing Ipe it will also give a little holding down power and help leval out uneven joists."

Specifically I wanted to know a little more about leveling out the uneven joists as my project is remodel/repair and the joist do look a little out of wack. How will adding this help level them out?

Also, my guy has put down ice and water shield over the tops of the joists.

If you use Grace on the joists you cant use adhesive.

J.

Hi all,
We begin installation of our new Ipe deck next week...after reading countless posts on GW that this is indeed the way to go. The advice from the contractor is to let the deck weather...and then stain. I'm especially interested in using John Hyatt's TWP wet-on-wet application. Do you suggest sanding/treating/cleaning the deck (with what?) immediately after the installation and doing this first coat of TWP right away? Within days? Or should I cool my jets and wait a month or two (oops in the middle of rainy season)...or six? Would you then follow with the second coat a week or so after the first coat? We're doing a cable rail with an ipe toprail. Any other recommendations for staining (I love the rich look of the ipe and really don't want the gray/silver weathered look)?? Many thanks!

HI Mom ! its ok thread hijack is normal over here.

TWP 100 series,I use the 116 on ipe, is a build coat finish at that poing the twp Folks and I agree. It's after the second coat they call wet on wet, I love saying that, that we differ.

They,twp Folks there is a corp 20 miles from my shop, refuse to acknowledge or even talk about how I build coats with their product. Even after coming over and seeing it with their own eyes.

I do it this way>> dont wait for anything but good weather to put the finish on a new outdoor project. Using twp 100 series put the first coat on right away put the second coat on, using the sprit of a sound mind, when you can that is not while its still wet to touch.Then leave it alone. You can put the second coat on in an hour,a day, a week well you get the idea I have found the first go around with outdoor finish will not last all that long no matter what you use. Come the early Spring clean up your deck and put on another coat or two durning good weather. The more coats the longer it takes to set up so be ready for that.

Twp 100 series has not changed in 20 + years. I have not changed the way I put it on in 12 years. You can build coats with it to the point of a simi gloss with no pealing,lifting at all and you Never have to strip it off.

The ol JonMon is signing off now, here is hoping all your beer never goes flat,your kids are above adverage,the irs sees it your way,your Harley is still runing good and Everyone at least one time in their life gets to taste a green chilli from New Mexico.

J.