Decided on Ipe ... A few questions

17 years ago

Hello All,

I have been lurking on the site for about 6 months and just went back through all the posts to try to find answers to my questions. I didn't find them, so I am hoping some of the experts can help me.

We have decided to go with Ipe for our deck (thanks to this website). We'll have 2 decks (one on either side of the house), totaling about 1,100 square feet. The larger deck will be 2 levels (@ 36" and 18") and about 900 sq/ft. The other will be 200 sq/ft (@ 36") with a hot-tub on the decking surface. We'll want to screen in the hot-tub side.

We're planning on the low-maintenance silver look. We went and saw the two Ipe decks in our area over the weekend. One guy has done absolutely nothing (zip/nada) to his in 3 years, and the wood is still absolutely beautiful (except he used clips which I didn't like the look of). It's in full sun with no trees, which probably helps some. He wants to go back to brown, so I suggested Ken's product to him.

Now that I've described our setup, here are the questions:

1) We'll use 5/4 x 6 Ipe (George @ ET). I have read that you can use 24" centers ... is that advised, or is it better to stick with 16"? I've seen some posts about this topic, but they all address the 1" Ipe. Obviously, I'm not talking about the hot-tub part. Also 2x8 or 2x10 joists?

2) Screws ... Again, most posts address 1" Ipe ... 2.5" seems to be the length, but I've seen #7 and #10 suggested. Trimhead square drive seem to be preferred.

3) End sealant has been discussed (some say use it some don't). What are the advantages of using the Tightbond III instead of AnchorSeal?

4) Should we seal the top of the joists with construction adhesive for a moisture barrier?

5) John Hyatt -- where did you find the lexan panels for the pergola on your website? We would like to do the same for our hot-tub enclosure (though you did say in one post that they were a pain in the behind to install).

I think those are my main questions for now. We have only one guy in town who has installed Ipe (2 of them), but he is retiring and doesn't want to build a deck as big as ours (plus he's very pro-clip), so I will be sinning by using a newbie Ipe builder. I know I'm not supposed to, but I can't really help it. I'll at least try to find an obsessive-compulsive one. :-)

Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for your assistance!

- Birgit

Comments (5)

Birgit
Original Author
17 years ago
Hi All, Here's the deck design:

{{!gwi}}
by birgitmccall

Thanks again,
Birgit
john_hyatt
17 years ago
Thats a nice project Briget,5/4x6 will span 24'' no problem I always go 16'' but I use a lot more foundation then most folks so thats just me,# 7 2 1/2'' ss trim head sq drive works well using construction adhesive on the joists has a lot of advantages, I use endgrain trim all around the outside of my decks usually 1 1/2'' glued and screwed on anchor seal is a waste of time,I get the Lex Ann from a local outfit altho home cheppo has a knock off called suntuff thats almost as good they both take some care durning instaltion finding the instructions for install is a good idea. John
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Birgit
Original Author
17 years ago
John, thanks for responding!

After I carefully thought out my post and stuck it up, I came up with one more question. We have heavy clay soil (which is often wet), and I'm getting increasingly paranoid about sticking treated pine into it (I'm afraid it will rot out years and years before the Ipe). Also there's the whole filling around the post with wet concrete worry. I'm now wondering about using concrete poured to above dirt level (with a J-bolt or something stuck out the top) and attaching the pine to the concrete using brackets (they seem to make something for this purpose). I know I lose some lateral strength this way, but is adding bracing sufficient?

I got a quote for aluminum framing, but it came in ridiculously high (~$23K), and structural steel is also quite pricey. My wallet can handle the Ipe, but I'm not sure it can take the hit of metal posts.

Thanks again for all your help and advice!

--Birgit
john_hyatt
17 years ago
I always land the post on the pier you can get post brackets for just that. J
mike_kaiser_gw
17 years ago
Birgit,

You don't want to put any kind of wood into concrete. Concrete is porous and holds moisture against the wood causing rot. Use an anchor bolt and a post base on top of the concrete footing, which should be a couple or three inches above grade.

Mike