doogan 123,
I prefer to use 5/4 x 4 T&G Mahogany flooring installed at 90 degrees off the house. Your framing would have to run
parallel to the house.
Additionally I pre prime my flooring boards 1/2 thinner and 1/2 oil based paint B4 I cut and install them. Then
I top coat with 2 final coats directly out of the can.

If you choose the naturral look, then just switch the proceedure to clear oil finish, satin, semi-gloss or whatever.

See my album and you'll see some flooring thats a good 6 year old and still looking good.

All the best, The PorchGuy

Here is a link that might be useful: My Album

Garapa is a golden color,it works very well for outside projects. All wood left without finish will go gray silver. No clear or natural has any uv protection use them and your project will go natural,,,or gray silver.

J.

John - I looked at Garapa.. I am not sure its what i am looking for. I guess looking at photos of this wood helped me decide on the more reddish look of mahogany...

The porchguy - I looked at your album. Your work is beautiful. The wood look and finish on Photo 31 and 32 are exactly what i am looking to acheive. Can I ask what type of mahogany this is ( I am assuming there are different variations) I like the light and dark mix ( I thought Mahogany was a darker wood in general?)

How exactly was this finished. You mentioned 1/2 thinner and 1/2 oil based. Then finish straight from the can - Excuse my ignorance - what type of oil based finish are you referring to.

sorry for all the basic question - however this is exactly what I am looking For

thanks guys

doogan123,
I use Honduras Mahogany. They are assorted shades when clear finished.
Since mahogany is a tight grain hardwood, I usually thin my first coat before I apply it to seep into the wood. 1/4 thinner to 3/4 oil finish. Use a quality oil finish.
Finishes perform best when the coating is applied to all surfaces "face, back, edges and ends).

When dried, I assemble the flooring. Then I apply two coats right out of the can. You can cut the edges with a brush and roll in the middle. Sometimes I use sheepskin
to apply the final coats, especially if high gloss.
I also add a sand additive for traction on high gloss, not on matte finishes.

Good Luck,

The PorchGuy

Here is a link that might be useful: My Album

I think waterlox marine finish would be good oil finish for a mahogany porch. After it fully cures, you can buff it with 0000 steel wool and a rag to make it look like a boat finish.

theporchGuy

Is there any particular grade of the honduras mahogany that you buy or recommend?

Also - My contractor is recommending regular cedar railings ( NAtrual look) - IYO - how does this look. I am thinking it would be fine. -what are you thoughts?

Aidan_M - thanks for the recommendation on the oil

No Knots on the mahogany. A or better I think its' called.
Cedar railings are real nice, but require maintainance from time to time.

the porchguy

Here is a link that might be useful: My Album

THe porchguy - I have a question if you are about

I have called up a few lumber yards and they are not really familiar with honduras mahogany. They are not familiar with this species, or the grade and most basically try to push composites or canberra mahogany (I think?)

Does this go by any other name or is it available online?thanks

Hi everyone again

Please bear with me - I have a couple of more questions - I am trying to decide on my porch wood. I spent today at lumber yards looking at samples etc.

I actually spoke to a yard about true mahogany or honduran Mahogany. He indicated that while this is true mahogany, its expensive. $12 + a LF. Is this accurate for porch . I am thinking or hoping that this must be a interior furnatire grade etc. This is like 3-4 times the cost of IPE

Next question - Are marenti or red balau (mangaris)really not a good deck choices. In Multiple lumber yards in my area this is their wood of choice, however in reading on these forums, it does not seem that popular. Can anyone clarify why these are not suitable woods?

IPE is still an option - depending on cost. How is this when installed T&G? Is it done with Fastners or secret nailed in the corner? Does it stay tight when installed T&G?

Folks - thanks for the feedback - I hope this is my last bunch of questions.

cheers..

Bump... anyone care to comment on my questions...thanks

If your going with Mahogany honduran is the only way to go.

I install T&G ipe with stainless steel trim head square drive screws, one thru the T on each 16'' on center joist over construstion adhesive. East Teak mills the decking belveled on both edges with a 1/8'' incress in the G.

A 1/2'' slot cut in the T every 3' or so installed corectley this and the screw wont show. Snug fit do not jam the decking tight Your not killing snakes. T&G decking drains the same way all decking does thu the gap.

Side Note>>> the frame has got to be secure,no over spans, the right foundation, cross ventalation J.

Thanks for your advice - appreciate it. I am thinking of doing 12 inch on center joisting. more than likely the ipe or garapa will outlive the joists anyway

Hi there. I just got on this site and saw that you are knowledgeable in the use of mahogany and I wanted to ask a question about it. My husband just recently build a beautiful mahogany deck/entrance to our front-side entrance of our house. He bought the Honduran mahogany and gave it an oil finish to all the sides of the wood before he built it. It is absolutely gorgeous and the color is magnificent. But we have noticed that when it rains/snows, the rain ices up (in the winter months) overnight and stays on the wood - it just beads up and has created a slipping hazard. I have to go out there and sweep it off and a light glazing of the water/ice still stays on the decking. He left the proper-sized gaps (i forget the exact size) between the wood but the water still does not run off it because of the oil finish. I am just concerned that no-one will slip on a wintry day and hurt themselves. Have you ever heard of this? Will the water eventually absorb in a little?

Probley not when the water begins to absorb in a little the finish has broken down and its time for a recoat. J.