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one_eyed_willy

Advice needed for sloping paver patio properly

One-Eyed-Willy
12 years ago

Hello, I am new to this forum (or any forum to be honest) and i need advice on how to provide adequete slope for my paver patio.

I have purchased multiple books from black and decker and others, on the subject and am always confused when i get to the part about pitching the patio away from the home (i've also watched every youtube video from here to timbuck two).

I have a brand new home (new construction) that came with a 10 X 10 concrete slab patio in the back. Instead of demolishing that slab i have decided to add to it to the tune of 200 sq ft (50 ft up and 150 ft to the side).

My question is(and i am having a really tough time articulating my exact question and confusion) when i add my concrete slab pavers to the side and to the front of the existing patio, how do i determinbe how much paver base should be near the house or front of my patio as opposed to the opposite end where the water needs to run? All of the books say 4 inches of base plus one inch of sand before the pavers are placed down but if that is the case, the slope would be consistent all the way across the patio regardless of doing the 1 inch for every 10 feet thing. Do i just need to excavate more at one end?

I would like my concrete pavers to be pretty much even with the existing concrete slab. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. I would be glad to provide pictures if that is allowed on here.

Comments (4)

  • fnmroberts
    12 years ago

    Grade away from a building for a paver patio will be somewhat less of an issue because of drainage afforded by the space between pavers and the base upon which they rest. Your 1/10" per foot grade is probably safe though I used 1/8" per foot because my level gave that indication.

    Remove all of the top soil and sufficient sub soil to allow for the base. Base requirement is dependent upon your frost zone and the weight to be set atop. I have a minimum of 5" base plus an inch of sand but below a hot tub I have 10" of base. Paver base need not be different only because it's further from your house.

    Now, here is my advise for new construction - WAIT, maybe 3 years. Why, because the foundation backfill needs time to settle completely. Most likely your existing slab is going to shift (unless footings were poured below) during this time so whatever pavers placed alongside will misalign in a season.

    Yes, a photo would be helpful, many are posted. And, do you mean 2,000 sq. ft of pavers, not 200? Personally if you're going that large, why save the existing 100 ft of concrete?

    I'm linking our patio. When I built it in 1998 (1995 home construction) I set stakes and provided a crowned grade from the house and to both edges. Because I needed a retaining wall, I installed French drains below the gravel,to carry away any water and they have worked great.

    Hope this helps. Good luck.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Patio

  • One-Eyed-Willy
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Fnmroberts, thanks a ton for taking the time to give an in depth reply, much appreciated. I did not state the job correctly. 10 x 10 existing slab equaling 100 sq ft and adding an additional 200 sq ft directly next to the slab.

    Although waiting 3 years may be the smart thing to do, I am not the type of person that can do that when my mind is set on something :) I am told it's a generational thing.

    So if I understand correctly, even with 4 inches of base material spread consistently accross my excavated area (plus sand), my patio will still slope? I feel like it will be exactly even and therefore water will pool on top. Why am I not getting this? Lol.

  • fnmroberts
    12 years ago

    I understand your impatience to get started - just giving you a "heads-up" that you will most likely need to take up the pavers and regrade. For the area you're now describing that will not be a huge undertaking.

    What is the soil like where you live? Loamy or all clay? Rain and meltwater will percolate through the space between pavers and into the gravel base, then be absorbed by the soil UNLESS you're all clay. That's why I installed French drains. I only get very temporary, minor pooling atop when it rains heavily. YES, you should grade the surface away from your home so water is directed away from the foundation.

  • One-Eyed-Willy
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Rocky and Clay! Developer took all of my topsoil I am guessing. So go deeper and add more of a base? Water pools in this spot on top of the grass I am going to excavate (after a hard rain)