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posskat

help!! new cedar decking--what to use on it???

posskat
12 years ago

we had only a small window of time to get our old deck (rotten) ripped out and a new one put in. it's 13'x 24', and they used cedar, i think from a local store. the deck faces south, with a row of cedars (8'tall and 10'wide)on the south side, and the house bordering the north and west side, and mostly open on the east side; some trees 30' away.

it was just finished yesterday, with some fir railings. not fancy, just functional, but i would like to look after it properly, and we have no experience w/this. not looking forward to stripping or sanding every 2 years or so. it's only about a foot off the ground, and not sure how long the lumber dried (or not!) prior to our purchase. the guy there recommended oiling it w/canola oil and paint thinner..........i've been reading some posts and trying to find out what is best to use w/out stripping and sanding. is that 'one step' any good, or are there any new, decent products out there? can't seem to find any very recent posts, and would appreciate any help for out there, cuz we are for sure greenhorns.....thanks ever so much. ps. doesn't look like the weather w/be nice enough for another month or so; should i hold off till warmer weather?

thanks!

Comments (8)

  • deckdude2
    12 years ago

    All new wood should dry for at least 1-2 months before applying a decking stain. Make sure to clean the wood prior to applying a deck coating.

    New wood is not very absorbent so you should use a penetrating semi-transparent stain. This will absorb into the wood while preventing UV fading and water rot.

    For future recoats it is best to choose a stain that can be easily reapplied without sanding or stripping.

    I would read some review sites for more help. We like TWP in St. Louis.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Deck Stain Reviews

  • posskat
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    thanks so much! one more question! the man who sold my husband the lumber (owns sawmill in town) recommends canola oil thinned with paint thinner......any ideas? didn't sound very good to me, but hubby swears the guy knows what he's talking about......

  • deckdude2
    12 years ago

    Canola oil? Sounds like a bad idea!

  • posskat
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    my sentiments exactly (after researching). thanks ever so much. looks like either twp or defy; thanks for that link; that was EXCELLENT!!! SOME OF THE BEST INFO ON THE WEB ON DECKS!!

  • sierraeast
    12 years ago

    Canola 50/50 with mineral spirits is great on some species of woods, but not cedar or redwood. It simply takes to long to soak in and dry. Cedar and redwood have natural oils and is what makes them a great exterior wood. Boiled linseed 50/50 with mineral spirits is about the same results as canola.

  • Faron79
    12 years ago

    Dear Lord....

    Are you guys SERIOUS with the Canola-Oil crap?!??!!?

    A PLANT-based oil mixed with a PETROLEUM-derived oil....Wow.
    What some people believe.....
    Santa-Claus must be real too I guess!

    Also:
    The fantasies about not needing to sand lumber is a bunch of crap too:
    * Mill-glaze on most new lumber can only be removed by sanding lightly.
    * U.S. Forest-Service studies have proven that IN TWO WEEKS, 50% of the Lignin & Cellulose of typical unstained "new" deck wood is fried-out by the Sun. It's not very visible to the naked eye though!!
    * This means....50% of woods "Stain-holding" power is gone in TWO WEEKS.
    * The cure...??? SAND OFF degraded wood layer. Simple as that.
    * Deck cleaning/scrubbing can do it too, but then you're waiting for drying time....
    * Sanding is ALWAYS best. My west-facing/full-sun Redwood deck is now 16 yrs. old. Have sanded the floor twice now, and have used Sikkens SRD every 3rd year.

    Faron

  • sierraeast
    12 years ago

    Put a couple coats of 50/50 boiled linseed/mineral spirits on an addition using t-1-11 ply siding and trim 15 years ago. It still looks and repels as if it was just applied.

    HO HO HO!

    In reality, I wouldn't recommend it as there are way too many other decent finishes/sealers out there such as duckback, cabots, sikkens but all need to be maintained and if you bite the bullet and do it at least every 5 years, more frequent would be best, it saves you troubles in the long run.