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golfer38

Ipe Deck II

golfer38
17 years ago

Hello everyone, and thanks in advance for any feedback or suggestions. I have read posts dating back to 2004 with many good tips and suggestions which will ensure my deck will be done correctly the first time. I want to thank George, John, Brooklyn Decks and others for their time and devotion to help others.

As the Stomach turns, I am putting the final design together for my deck, railing/fence, stairway and benches.

I have pics of my deck and design on the web at;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jimswork/

My deck is about 2000 sq ft. My joists are 2x10 and 12" oc so I will be using 1x(X) boards installed at a 45 angle. I will not be plugging.

My pt frame was completed last fall. In reading the forum, I will check for any changes to the boarding before I lay down the Ipe.

The Ipe will be purchased this week from George at EastTeak. He has been very patient and flexible in helping me select the best overall solutions for the entire project. It should have about 4-5 weeks to acclimate and by mid-march I will hopefully be able to lay the decking down. I finished the conduit and wiring for my hottub and electrical outlets for the wet bar and low voltage lighting. I still have not picked out my lighting yet (see questions below) or run the wiring for that.

I will be using TWP-116 as recommended here. I will seal the ends of the boards with TWP and Titebond III as I will be installing trim around the edgeboards by cutting a 1x(X) into three pieces (long-way) and routing out the 90 degree to fit over the end boards. I will also slide White Azec behind the overhanging trim. You can see what this trim looks like at my website (sunroom).

I will be making my own Ipe rails/fencing and using black aluminum for the balusters.

I will paint the joists black to hide them and put down screening over the joists (under the canopy).

Ventilation is an issue as the decking at the sunroom (24x13) is close to the ground, less than 12" (including the joists). At the Den/Kitchen (37x13) area the space is about 18" off the ground but slopes off at about 7' from the house to 24" and 36"+ furthest area from the house. I will use vents/registers in the area closest to the house at about 6'-8' intervals. Is that too much, too little or just right? I will also have vents on the fascia boards as needed on the rest of the deck.

I will not sand the deck after laying the wood but will clean and brighten before laying the TWP.

I will be butting the ends together and have 1/16th spacing between boards. Is this fine or should I go 1/32?

Railing/Fence will use 4x4 Ipe posts. As for the handrails, should I go smooth all the the way around the deck or have the posts break up the 4/5 top rail and use post caps? Some of the rail posts with caps and lighting looks very nice.

In regards to predrilling, is the predrill hole larger than the screw itself so I am not actually screwing the Ipe but just into the joists?

As for Low Voltage Ligthing, I am thinking of breaking the decking into 3 areas (Right side, middle and left side). This way, I wont have any voltage drain with the lights. I will also be lighting up the three octagon planters and two bushes right off the deck in the pool area. This is the area that I have not finalized. Not sure how many lights I would require without making the deck look ugly and I dont want to have too few as to not highlight the deck. I am not sure if recessed lighting in the fascia boards are the way to go or use lights that protrude from the deck (I am afraid of them being banged or stepped on). How about post lighting? I also have a question on photcells. Is the photocell on the ac or dc side of the circuit. Also, since the low voltage transformers will be enclosed in the wet bar and meter box, can I install the photocells outside the enclosed areas?

The 4x4 posts will be anchored by bolts inside the band joists and I will be using deckloks for bracing.

Thanks for reading this and your suggestions and recommendations.

Jim (Maryland)

Comment (1)

  • john_hyatt
    17 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hey Jim nice looking framing good idea to cover it up for the winter. I dident see details of the edge trim under the sunroom but let me run by you how I do it and see if its the same , I really cant picture the way you discribe your idea>>trim the decking flush with the frame,using 1 1/2'' rips of the decking glue and screw them flush to and into the edge of the decking, usually we put a router detail on the edge of the rips for detail, I use 1 1/2'' because the skirting that bumps up under the trim is 3/4 or 1'' thick this gives a nice little revealThe vents sound about right both in the skirting and in the decking close to the house. I can not stress the importance of Cross Vintalation enough.

    You can sand ipe with 60/80 grit pads,this will no effect one way or the other far as the twp taking to the ipe.I jam fit any butt joints,sometimes we glue them together. Ipe will shrink a little width wize not leangth wize

    Solid cap rail or post caps depends on the look you want sometimes the post caps if there are too many of them over power the total look. I dont really get into lighting much, in the rare times I have and the Wallet goes with the lighted post caps I use pt 4x4s boxed into the frame with construstion adhesive,im not really big on bolts either we secure them in with gun nails and finish the conection with 3'' ss bugle head screws.Then after the decking is cut around the pt 4x4s we install ipe post sleves

    Ipe Post Wrapps/Sleves>> we make them with ipe 1x6, pt 4x4s can range in width a lot so we make one set of 3 3/4'' and one set 5 1/2''( or full size 1x6) how ever high the posts are.Fasten them together to form a long box, slide them over the pt post.Corectley built leaves enough space to run the wire to power the post caps lights inside the wrapps. Becsuse the pt posts will be exposed to the sun while the decking is put down cover them with white trash bags until its time to install the wrapp.We use 5/32'' bits for the pre drill in 1/6 ipe using 1 5/8''ss # 7 square drive screws with a bead of construstion adhesive on the joist.Pre drill can go in the 3/4 ipe a 1/2'' or so but not into the pt frame.One place that is really making some deals on ss screws>> Fasco Fastener not much of a web site its better to call them 866 327 2633, tell them I sent you and they will charge you twice.

    You Go Get Em Jim!!! Any friend of the George is a Freind of mine. J