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12 Volt Pool Light / 110 controller

Posted by tgmccallie (My Page) on
Mon, Oct 25, 10 at 0:50

I have a 12 volt Hayward Color Logic pool light that I want to use to replace my present 110 volt one.

I have a Fiberstars 110 volt controller (wireless). Can I use it with the 12 volt light if I use a 12 volt transformer to reduce the voltage to the light?

Should I reduce the voltage before it goes to the controller or after the controller before it goes to the light?

The controller does not have a timer clock. It has 3 switches, the first one for the light and 2 more that can be used for spa or other 12 volt apparatus.

The switches turn off and on as well as manual and remote. You switch it to remote to use it wireless.

Any suggestions as to if I can use the controller and if so what would be the best configuration?

If I want to use all 3 switches as 12 volt I guess I would have to reduce voltage before the controller. If I reduce it after the controller, I think I would have to wire the light directly from the transformer and that would leave the other 2 switches as 110 volt ones.

Advise


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: 12 Volt Pool Light / 110 controller

I too had a 115-volt obviously inteded to electrocute the swimmer till replacing it with 12-v sealed-beam headlight

I placed transformer outside pool area in junction box which formerly contained only wiring twists. Other participants more familiar with your setup will doubtlessly elaborate but in any worst case of transformer leakage or wet wiring use also GFI as far back in the system as feasible

Meanwhile I shall fwd a link of this thread to several of my more knowledgeable pool buddies then fwd any response here


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RE: 12 Volt Pool Light / 110 controller

Which fiberstars unit do you have?


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RE: 12 Volt Pool Light / 110 controller

Sorry Tg but I don't use the unit, everything I have done is off-the-cuff but doubtlessly somebody else more familiar with the conventional outfitting will respond shortly


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RE: 12 Volt Pool Light / 110 controller

TG, use a light switch in an enclosure to supply power to the transformer that supply's the light fixture. Get power from a GFCI breaker to the switch.

Don't use parts from other equipment. That's not only against code but is not just asking for, but rather is DEMANDING problems you don't want any part of.

Scott


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RE: 12 Volt Pool Light / 110 controller

TG - If you are going to use the controller, I would have the controller switch 115VAC from a GFCI protected circuit. Many contacts rated for switching AC may have a low amp rating for switching DC. DC by definition does not have a voltage zero crossing and the arcing may prematurely fail the contact. Switching DC will also result in a higher switching current 50W @ 12VDC = 4.2 amps, 50W @ 115VAC = 0.43 amps. If you want to switch DC check the relays specifications.

Also consider that the low voltage transformer must be rated a for swimming pool or spa application. These transformers have isolation between the 120VAC and 12V.


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