The pool plan I have is approximately 72,000 gallons. I am trying to figure out if I could size the pool with 1 Intelliflow VF pump.

For normal operation, I figure I can run the pump at a reduced power setting of around 75 GPM, 24 hours a day, or 1.5 flips a day.
I plan to have intelli-chem system on the pool to constantly monitor and adjust PH level, as well as the intellichlor system to keep the ORP in check, so hopefully I won't have to run the pump full bore too often...

Questions:

1) In the event of an algae outbreak, the theoretical maximum (assuming my piping is sized correctly and I had minimal head loss) would be 150 GPM on the pump / Clean & Clear Filter combination. This would equate to an 8 hour turn-over rate for the pool, or 3 flips in a day. Is this enough "horse-power" to work assuming worst case scenario - middle of August Houston heat, full sun, bad algae outbreak, etc. Does my highest turn-over capability need to be higher than 3x per day in the Houston area?

2) With the Intellichlor system, a single cell goes up to a 60K gallon rating, which appears to be capable of producing up to 2 lbs chlorine per 24 hour period.
a) Is 2 lbs chlorine per day enough to handle a 72K gallon pool in the middle of summer (relatively light bather load) in Houston?
b) If not, can I double up the residential intellichlor units on a single pump with a homemade manifold without having to buy their commercial manifold units and be able to tie both intellichlor cells to the intelli-chem controller?
c) How much chlorine per day would it take to "Shock" a 72K gallon pool? Do you have to use chemical shock to get the job done, or can the chlorine cell handle the job on its own?
d) How automated are the intellichlor units when wired into the intelli-chem system? Can you set an ORP number in the system and have the intellichlor output level adjusted automatically, or do you just have to set the low-medium-high settings manually on the intellichlor, monitor the results and make adjustments again?

Thanks!

Cells, in addition to the hypochlorous acid and lye they produce (which pH wise, cancel each other so that aspect is neutral) also split water molecules. This produces O2 and H2.

Depending on the distance to the main body of water, this may either provide the opportunity for the H2 and O2 to either recombine or, allow the H2 to gas off, reducing the alkalinity, and cause a moderate increase in the pH.

IntellipH is suggested. This is a simple time based distribution device that pumps a specific amount of Muriatic acid to counter the typically seen pH rise. Testing is still required to keep the IntellipH dialed in. Changes in seasons, bather load, and weather will mean changes in pH periodically but this system will help keep things steady, pH wise. Proper testing with a good kit such as a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 will tell you what is what and help you maintain a crystal clear pool that is safe for all to swim in.

Dual IC-40s, in a manifold configuration, will be needed at a minimum.

If you have an algae outbreak, the use of liquid chlorinating solution (10 or 12%) is suggested. Using the cells to raise the TC level takes too long and shortens their expected life. The use of liquid only adds some salt.

If your CYA level is less than 80 ppm, dichlor powder can be used to also help bring the CYA level up when shocking. If your calcium hardness is under 225 ppm, cal-hypo powder can be used (premix with water in a big bucket).

Scott

Any thoughts on turnover rates for the pump?

-Jonathan

You have too much sun to use liquid for anything but shocking. The FC levels would go too low with the amount of CYA needed to use the ORP in an Intellichem or Sense and Dispense from Hayward.

Plain bleach, Clorox or WalMart brand (cheaper) work too though they they are 5% and 6% instead of 10% to 12.5%.

A pair of cells and the IntellipH are a betting combo, IMHO for your location and needs.

Scott