I've got the same filter and when I was going through pool school the PB rep told me to remove that plug to drain the tank before removing the filters and I was like "You've got to be kidding me!! How the heck can I even get a wrench on that thing, and then get it back on without cross-threading the plastic threads on it??" Then I pointed out to him that there is a hose bibb installed on the plumbing that is well below the tank seam, and why can't I just open that bibb up to drain the water down low enough to remove the canister top and pull the filters? He looked at it thoughtfully and said that indeed he couldn't think of why that wouldn't work. And that's exactly what I've been doing, LOL! It works great. Hopefully you have a bibb like that on your setup as well, if you do then give that a try and leave the bottom plug alone. Don't forget to open the valve on top of the filter canister to let air in as it's draining down.

They make a tool specifically for that plug. The plug is best replaced with the original. A pro can remove it pretty easy as we do it hundreds of times. That's probably why your guy said to remove it like it was a no brainer. The wrench is easier though.

trsew- I do have a hose bib attached to the line going from pump to filter, I'll give that a try. Thanks!

repair guy- where does one get that tool for the plug?

Thanks for the info.

Luvh20

I'd imagine you can get one anywhere. e-mail me and I'll find the part number by then. I know they are about $45.00

repair guy - thanks, but for $45.00, I'd rather drain it another way, and use the $45.00 to get a half a tank of gas.:)

Channel locks work great but when one can't get that to work, the wrench is the solution if you want no headaches. I use it all of the time but then again, I use it 15-20 times a week.

Well I guess I was a little confused.
The plug itself had a plastic cover over it that is glued on. The first time I cleaned the filter, I turned the cover, and the plug came out, and I reinstalled it.

The next time I went to remove the plug, the cover broke off. Why that cover was over the plug is a mystery. It had a small hex nut on it for a wrench, but the cover is only glued on to the plug.

Pentair sent a warranty person out today and he installed a
new plug, but even he didn't know why that glued on cover
was on there.
He did give me a tip on removing the plug, use the shaft of a screwdriver that will fit in the slot of the plug and turn it. I'll try it next time.
I do have this to say about Pentair to anybody who is
trying to decide between equipment. I called about my plug
filter problem one day, and they were out the next day to fix it. Now that is service!!!

luvh20

That slotted hex plastic plug does loosen easy with a screwdriver blade but it is sometimes a bit tough on the Pentair. The same plug is on the Hayward and the access is easier. The newer versions of the Pentair tank have a totally different plug that can be turned by hand.

The only drawback to this filter is that every piece of black fitting that engages the tank is weak. From the bulkheads, to the plug to the air relief. They crack, leak and loosen more than any other brand out there. The only saving grace is that the tank itself is probably the strongest compared to the others. You'll replace more tank lids and bottoms on Hayward.

I overtightened the drain plug on my pentair ccp 420 and it snapped off. Is there any easy fix to this i.e. JB weld? That part that snapped off was the plug and the part it screws into leaving I am not sure what? Seems that would have to be taken out somehow and replaced with both new parts..

I snapped off my plug this week. After scouring the internet l thought I would use the technique of epoxying a pvc pipe inside the plug and twisting the plug out. I was afraid it would be my luck to epoxy the plug in.

My solution was to us the small straight pick (63697) from Harbor Freight. Going from inside the filter I was able to get enough torque and bite to get the plug threads out