Have you been brushing? My understanding is that when you have any algae in the pool, it can cling to the walls and floor and steps and in the light niches, etc. Shocking can bleach it temporarily so you think it's gone, but it will come back unless you break its contact with all the surfaces via brushing repeatedly. I kept bringing mine to shock level for a week with repeated brushing (not daily as we probably should, but every couple of days) and that seemed to do the trick. Might not have taken a week had I brushed more. Read the algae section at TFP for the instructions I loosely followed.

We have been brushing, but maybe not as much as we should have because the walls appear perfectly clean. There is no noticeable growth. Did you see any growth on your walls?

Not after the first round of brushing did I see any growth. I did later find green algae in/under the light niches, which was invisible to me while I was actually doing the brushing. The thick grout lines around our skimmer boxes were also very susceptible. It did take our sand filter about a week to clear up the particulate and that was with me using concentrated clarifier a few times. DH was skeptical of the brushing and vacuuming we were doing, as every time we did, the water became cloudy and he felt like we were messing up the hard work we'd done to get it as clear as we had so far. I kept at shock level until our overnight chlorine loss was negligible and that's when I went back to maintenance chlorine levels.

Get a copper test. Let the chlorine drop and then get a complete set of chem levels.

Fix the cover before Fall. If light doesn't get in, algae can't grow.

Algaecides generally don't kill, they help prevent only.

Strips are not accurate. Please get a proper test kit that uses drops for color changes, like pink to clear, green to red...., or opaqueness cover a black dot.

Some stores use the Free Water Testing as a way to sell things you really don't need. Happens a lot.

Scott

Scott- I see people recommending the TF-100 test kit on TFP. Is this the best kit on the market? We too are currently using strips and need to switch to something better. Thanks!

TFP kits are awesome. Highly recommended, and the ship time will impress.

MiaOKC, what is a "DH" ?

I think you have and algae bloom, check the CYA and shock accordingly.

The TF-100 uses the same reagents as a Taylor for the most part. One of the biggest differences is the TF-100 quantities of those reagents are larger resulting in a lower cost per test. I use it because it works.

Others I have seen work well are the Taylor K-2006 series. It differs from the Taylor 2006 in that it also has an FAS-DPD chlorine test that allows undiluted test for Free and Total chlorine up to 50 ppm, far more than OTO or plain DPD tests. The K-2006 also has a rebadged clone from Leslie's that IIRC, is web order only.

Scott

Scott Thanks. I am going to check out the Taylor K-2006 as well. Can you tell me what in the heck your last sentence means :) Thanks!

Goyom - DH is a Dear Husband. LOL. Highly technical term, I know!

CManley - I think Scott's sentence means that there is an identical test kit that has been re-packaged/re-branded as a Leslie's product (it's the same thing with different labels), and if he recalls (IIRC is If I Recall Correctly) he thinks it's web order only.

Whew. It's a good thing I'm an Army brat. It was a training ground to get me ready for internet acronyms. :)

IIRC = If I Recall Correctly

FAS-DPD is just a type of chlorine test that goes to 50 ppm. It uses a powder and some drops. Count the drops and you get your a color change at some point.

OTO is the test that typically turns a shade of yellow. It tells of the presence of chlorine but doesn't differentiate between free or combine chlorine.

A DPD test can but often, not in higher concentrations.

PPM is Parts Per Million.

Scott

I guess I am acronym illiterate :)
Thanks for all of the clarification. Nice to know what DH finally means. I ordered the Taylor K-2006. Thanks for the recommendation.

Thanks for the responses. After a week of pouring various water conditioners and algaecides into the pool, I got the recommendation to put six pounds of chlorine shock per hour into the pool until it turned blue. We did two rounds of six, went to bed, and in the morning it was blue and beautiful. It was skeptical, but it totally worked.

I will definitely pick up one of those test kits, since the reader is showing that we're low on chlorine, which seems absolutely impossible!

I went thru similar steps as new_2_nj ((May 31, 2012 at 7:37PM) above and the green color was gone too. See here for details.

My pool turns light green when chlorine is added. Then turns clear blue the next day. No sign of algae at all. Can someone advise why this is happenning ?

My pool water looks green but when I took a sample with a clear cup,the water was clear.There is no algae growth or anything like it.I am not sure why the water looks green though.

It just happens when I added the Chlorine

My pool water looks green but when but when I dip it out in a clear cup it is clear HELP ME PLEASE

My pool is doing the same, please help, we have been trying to get it blue for over a month and have spent too much money!