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| I have been snooping around this forum for over a year while we have been contemplating a pool. Thanks to all for the huge amount of helpful information that is available on this site. We are finally getting to the point where we have received bids and are comparing designs and I thought I would post what we are leaning towards and see what kind of brilliant feedback ya�ll provide.
Below are the specs on the design we are leaning towards:
Layout:
3D Rendering:
Questions:
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Follow-Up Postings:
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| LEDs don't have quite the lumen output that incandescent fixtures have. You will likely need a pair of them for the pool. Both should be facing away from your house so you don't get glare when they are turned on. The spa will be happy with either. You will like LEDs color changing capability a lot! The pipe size, the jets used, the jet positions (some multilevel systems require more than one blower), and distance from the pad can and will effect the blower's effectiveness. Please add the requested info. I have yet to see ozone be proven effective in a residential outdoor pool. As long the in line chlorinator is not a Hayward CL-200 or one of it's clones, you should be OK. Using a Rainbow 320 is preferred because it doesn't restrict water as much. Do note though that with a variable speed or two speed pump, the lower speeds normally used with these will have a negative effect on the amount of chlorine dispensed. If you are in the deep South, this can effect a couple of things for you. 1st is the chlorine issue I mentioned. Second is the amount of cyanuric acid (CYA) dispensed by the tablets will rise to levels higher than desired over time. This will need diluting unless you are in the San Diego vicinity where a reverse osmosis service exists. While DE filters a smaller particulate out of the pool, cartridge systems reduce the amount of water needed. By me, cartridges usually lose that battle except for certain water features with benefit from have the water filtered. I don't see a second pump used. Often, people opt for have one for the water features. The three scuppers and the sheer decent would, IMHO, qualify. Then you could have them on at the same time as the spa instead of an either or situation. It would also require an extra set of drains, be they side mounted or on the bottom or even a channel drain. I do have a concern with the use of Oklahoma Flagstone being used in that it has been reported to be somewhat softer a stone than I would want. I also like salt cells, in general, and those two don't seem to like being in the same sandbox. If a stone coping is used, I would look at a harder material for the coping. The only member on this board who has had some measure of success using what you have quoted goes by the name womanowned and I happen to like darn near all her stuff. She and I have had many a conversation on this board regarding ozone, salt, and tablet feeders. If she is your PB, you should be fine. Anyone else and I would walk or require changes. Scott |
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| Steve - Thanks for the comments. Spa blower - none of the documentation I have details the actual pipe size...just says pipe size as required by pump. The jets have adjustable air control and looped piping to balance jet performance. Spa distance to blower will be approximately 55 feet. Chlorinator is a Rainbow 320. A Stealth 2HP booster pump is included "for additional water flow". I was not clear if this was for the pool sweep or water feature. The scuppers and sheer descent will have a separate control valve off of the variable speed pump. |
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| The sweep gets a 3/4 HP booster. A 2 HP Stealth is too much for the scuppers and sheer unless you are looking at a very long run to the equipment pad. A 1 HP on those would allow the those to be independent of how the spa and pool function. The 2 HP of the variable speed pump allows that pump to be able to drive the jets in the spa. There would then be no need for an extra return in the spa either for circulation. By cracking open the jets, freshly chlorinated water get in there. The valve actuators with open and close the respective suction and return lines as needed. The above suggested design should save on plumbing and equipment costs. Scott |
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| We finally selected a builder and got permits. The excavation was completed today. Plumbing in scheduled for tomorrow.
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- Posted by zookeeper93 (My Page) on Fri, May 25, 12 at 12:12
I will second Scott's reservations on Oklahoma Flagstone. We have it on our chlorine pool (late august 2008 finish) and we are very disappointed. There are actual groove marks in the stone in the deep end where the coping is gripped  Close up-it is hard to capture the depressions but they are very pronounced on the stone Here is looking down on one of the moss rocks at the deep end edge that gets splashed a lot Here are little trenches worn by water trickles on the flagstone Not to mention the flaking and sandy scrapings that appear. |
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| Thanks for the additional feedback on the flagstone coping. We are currently planning on flagstone coping and dry stack on the raised wall/planter/spa. I will discuss further with our PB. If we made a change do you have any suggestions on what may look good based on our backyard? We have the "crazy quilt" flagstone on the retaining wall that somewhat matches the brick. The current plan is to use oklahoma flagstone for the coping and walnut travertine pavers for the deck. |
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| Some plumbing progress. The walls were also "flashed" with concrete for stabilization. Additional photos below.
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- Posted by zookeeper93 (My Page) on Sun, May 27, 12 at 10:33
| We also have Arizona flagstone, as we had an extensive pathway made from it. I originally wanted Arizona coping but the macho pool designer said it would be too much pink around the pool (the pathway was to be removed as it was in the pools path). I let them talk me out of it. Wish I had not. We never has an issue with the Arizona, in fact we used most of it in another area of our yard. No erosion, spalling, etc. It gets hit with our high sodium well water spinklers that is in the pool and sprinkler system there. Good luck on the rest of your build. It is looking beautiful. If you do use Oklahoma, seal it right away. |
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| We are going with a pebble plaster made by Wet Edge Technologies called Satin Matrix. I am very impressed with their plaster products. We are also going with LED lights made by Pentair. Our work is scheduled to start in a few days. We live in Dallas and have been working with Wylie Plaster. |
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| This week we completed stub plumbing and steel. The plumbing is routed through the belly of the pool and then covered with a few inches of flowable fill/gravel before they started steel. Steel is 1/2 inch rebar on 10 inch centers with 5 inch alternates (lots of steel). Initally the PB only put the alternates in the "stess areas" but our contract stated alternates would be installed in walls and floor so I made them come back and install alternates throughout. Passed inspection Friday and will get gunite Monday.
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| Just FYI. You cannot use brick for blocking up steel. It is not the same as using a concrete dobie. The brick is a weaker material.The inspector should catch this. |
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| Is it a common practice to run plumbing under the pool? Other than drain lines, I don't think I've seen that in too many other pictures on here. Seems like that is a lot of weight on top of that PVC. Especially once filled. How does that not affect the plumbing? Seems like it is better to run the plumbing around the outside of the pool. |
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| Collin02, can you please let me know the following: 1) Who is your pool builder? 2) Ballpark estimate for that bid? 3) If you have been pleased so far with them. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP! |
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| bumdaddy, I would personally keep looking. IMHO. |
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| Bumdaddy - 1. Builder is Riverbend Sandler I would be happy to discuss further. Just let me know. |
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| Any finished pics? Would love to see how it turned out! |
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- Posted by womanowned (My Page) on Thu, Aug 30, 12 at 22:58
| I have never seen plumbing like that running through the pool. Is that typical in Dallas? I have built pools in Houston, Austin and San Antonio, but have never seen anything like that. I can't imagine how this would be better than laying the lines outside of the pool. Less work, but hard to repair any lines that might get broken since the plumbing is covered. Odd |
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| I would expect that due to the lack of space outside the perimeter, the lines really had no other place to be run. That he added bedding over them is good as this will distribute the pressure being exerted by the weight of the pool and water. I do hope the hollow bricks and blocks were exchanged for proper dobies. I am concerned for the spa's Quad Jet. It looks like the air and water loops were reversed. Normally, the air loop connections are on the upper loop as seen on the single jet bodies. Scott |
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| I believe every riverbend sandler pool in dfw is made that way regardless of yard space. I asked the pool builder and he gave me a reason but unfortunately it's all Greek to me. It did worry me, but they build so many pools for so many years, you'd think there would be a big outcry or it wouldnt pass inspection if it was bad. If you search for riverbend on the forum you can find a ton of pics of their pools built this way. Not saying it's right or wrong, it's just how they do it. I'm trusting them.....hope I don't regret it in 10 years. |
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| Sorry I've been slacking...here are some photos to take you through completion. Gunite:
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| Tile and masonry:
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| Plaster...we chose tahoe blue river sand.
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| Finished! At least until October when we will start working on landscaping.
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| Beautiful pool :) Quick question - where are your steps and how many do you have. Thanks so much Piaa |
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- Posted by runingfeet (My Page) on Sun, Sep 2, 12 at 23:30
| Is the finished plaster wet edge satin matrix? Is the color Northshore Tahoe? |
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| Thanks Piaa. The steps are where the bubbler is in the picture directly above your post. There are a total of three steps. The top step is a large "tanning ledge" that is approximately 6" deep with a bubbler in the middle. It is excellent for lounging around and is a great play area for our 18 month old. Runingfeet - our plaster is an in-house blend from Riverbend Sandler (our pool builder). They call it river sand. They also have river rock which has larger pebbles. The color is tahoe blue. |
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- Posted by austin_tx_pool12 (My Page) on Wed, Dec 26, 12 at 20:40
| Hi, if you still follow the forum, I was wondering why the gunite beam extended an additional foot past the coping on the side by your home. In other words, after the coping was installed, there was another 12", or so, of gunite that was under the travertine. I don't recall seeing this on other builds in the forum. Thanks! |
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