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collin02_gw

Pool Build in Dallas Area � Comments & Suggestions Requested

collin02
11 years ago

I have been snooping around this forum for over a year while we have been contemplating a pool. Thanks to all for the huge amount of helpful information that is available on this site. We are finally getting to the point where we have received bids and are comparing designs and I thought I would post what we are leaning towards and see what kind of brilliant feedback ya�ll provide.

Below are the specs on the design we are leaning towards:

Pool Size: 19ft x 36ft

Pool Surface Area: 474 sqft

Pool Depth: 3.5ft to 5.5ft

Pool Perimeter: 104ft

Pool Features: 18 inch raised wall along back of pool with 3 scuppers, semi-circle planter in corner of pool with 24 inch sheer descent, bench located under sheer descent, tanning ledge by steps

Spa Size: 7.5ft diameter

Spa Area: 52 sqft

Spa Features: Raised 18 inch, multi-tier spillway, captain�s "seat" with multilevel jets, 3-4 inch arm-rest around inside

Estimated Gallons: 18,739

Equipment: Jandy

Pump: Jandy 2HP variable speed

Filter: Jandy 60 sqft DE OR Jandy cartridge???

Backwash valve: Jandy NeverLube

Cleaner: Polaris 280 with booster pump

Heater: Jandy LRZ400

Spa Blower: 1.5HP � big enough???

Controller: Jandy PDA P6 controller with handheld remote

Sanitized: In-line chlorinator with Del Ozone Eclipse 2

Pool light: Jandy 500W, considering LED

Spa light: Jandy 100W, considering LED

Coping: Oklahoma flagstone

Plaster: Pebble of some sort, we like the tahoe blue color

Decking: 400sqft salt finish with stain

Layout:

3D Rendering:



Questions:

We have a fairly narrow and oddly shaped backyard with a retaining wall on one side and are hoping that the installation of the pool will "open it up" a little. Any ideas on how to do this any better would be appreciated.

We are considering going to LED lighting. Will they show up with the darker pebble finish? The pool builder says we may need two LED lights to be able to see them. Maybe it is better to stick with the standard lights.

Current depth profile is from 3.5ft to 5.5ft. Considering 3.5ft to 5ft to 4ft or 3.5ft to 5.5ft to 4ft. Any thoughts on practicality of these options?

DE filter with backwash or cartridge filter?

Decking � We are trying to figure out how to integrate our existing patio into the design since it is such a small backyard. Considering a micro-coat on top of the patio, flagstone or travertine pavers.

Any comments/suggestions on the above equipment?

Comments (27)

  • poolguynj
    11 years ago

    LEDs don't have quite the lumen output that incandescent fixtures have. You will likely need a pair of them for the pool. Both should be facing away from your house so you don't get glare when they are turned on. The spa will be happy with either. You will like LEDs color changing capability a lot!

    The pipe size, the jets used, the jet positions (some multilevel systems require more than one blower), and distance from the pad can and will effect the blower's effectiveness. Please add the requested info.

    I have yet to see ozone be proven effective in a residential outdoor pool.

    As long the in line chlorinator is not a Hayward CL-200 or one of it's clones, you should be OK. Using a Rainbow 320 is preferred because it doesn't restrict water as much. Do note though that with a variable speed or two speed pump, the lower speeds normally used with these will have a negative effect on the amount of chlorine dispensed.

    If you are in the deep South, this can effect a couple of things for you. 1st is the chlorine issue I mentioned. Second is the amount of cyanuric acid (CYA) dispensed by the tablets will rise to levels higher than desired over time. This will need diluting unless you are in the San Diego vicinity where a reverse osmosis service exists.

    While DE filters a smaller particulate out of the pool, cartridge systems reduce the amount of water needed. By me, cartridges usually lose that battle except for certain water features with benefit from have the water filtered.

    I don't see a second pump used. Often, people opt for have one for the water features. The three scuppers and the sheer decent would, IMHO, qualify. Then you could have them on at the same time as the spa instead of an either or situation. It would also require an extra set of drains, be they side mounted or on the bottom or even a channel drain.

    I do have a concern with the use of Oklahoma Flagstone being used in that it has been reported to be somewhat softer a stone than I would want. I also like salt cells, in general, and those two don't seem to like being in the same sandbox. If a stone coping is used, I would look at a harder material for the coping.

    The only member on this board who has had some measure of success using what you have quoted goes by the name womanowned and I happen to like darn near all her stuff. She and I have had many a conversation on this board regarding ozone, salt, and tablet feeders. If she is your PB, you should be fine. Anyone else and I would walk or require changes.

    Scott

  • collin02
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Steve - Thanks for the comments.

    Spa blower - none of the documentation I have details the actual pipe size...just says pipe size as required by pump. The jets have adjustable air control and looped piping to balance jet performance. Spa distance to blower will be approximately 55 feet.

    Chlorinator is a Rainbow 320.

    A Stealth 2HP booster pump is included "for additional water flow". I was not clear if this was for the pool sweep or water feature.

    The scuppers and sheer descent will have a separate control valve off of the variable speed pump.

  • poolguynj
    11 years ago

    The sweep gets a 3/4 HP booster.

    A 2 HP Stealth is too much for the scuppers and sheer unless you are looking at a very long run to the equipment pad. A 1 HP on those would allow the those to be independent of how the spa and pool function.

    The 2 HP of the variable speed pump allows that pump to be able to drive the jets in the spa. There would then be no need for an extra return in the spa either for circulation. By cracking open the jets, freshly chlorinated water get in there. The valve actuators with open and close the respective suction and return lines as needed.

    The above suggested design should save on plumbing and equipment costs.

    Scott

  • collin02
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    We finally selected a builder and got permits. The excavation was completed today. Plumbing in scheduled for tomorrow.

  • llcp93
    11 years ago

    I will second Scott's reservations on Oklahoma Flagstone. We have it on our chlorine pool (late august 2008 finish) and we are very disappointed. There are actual groove marks in the stone in the deep end where the coping is gripped

    Close up-it is hard to capture the depressions but they are very pronounced on the stone

    Here is looking down on one of the moss rocks at the deep end edge that gets splashed a lot

    Here are little trenches worn by water trickles on the flagstone

    Not to mention the flaking and sandy scrapings that appear.


  • collin02
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks for the additional feedback on the flagstone coping. We are currently planning on flagstone coping and dry stack on the raised wall/planter/spa. I will discuss further with our PB.

    If we made a change do you have any suggestions on what may look good based on our backyard? We have the "crazy quilt" flagstone on the retaining wall that somewhat matches the brick. The current plan is to use oklahoma flagstone for the coping and walnut travertine pavers for the deck.

  • collin02
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Some plumbing progress. The walls were also "flashed" with concrete for stabilization. Additional photos below.










  • llcp93
    11 years ago

    We also have Arizona flagstone, as we had an extensive pathway made from it. I originally wanted Arizona coping but the macho pool designer said it would be too much pink around the pool (the pathway was to be removed as it was in the pools path). I let them talk me out of it. Wish I had not. We never has an issue with the Arizona, in fact we used most of it in another area of our yard. No erosion, spalling, etc. It gets hit with our high sodium well water spinklers that is in the pool and sprinkler system there. Good luck on the rest of your build. It is looking beautiful. If you do use Oklahoma, seal it right away.

  • JimLo
    11 years ago

    We are going with a pebble plaster made by Wet Edge Technologies called Satin Matrix. I am very impressed with their plaster products. We are also going with LED lights made by Pentair. Our work is scheduled to start in a few days. We live in Dallas and have been working with Wylie Plaster.

  • collin02
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    This week we completed stub plumbing and steel. The plumbing is routed through the belly of the pool and then covered with a few inches of flowable fill/gravel before they started steel.

    Steel is 1/2 inch rebar on 10 inch centers with 5 inch alternates (lots of steel). Initally the PB only put the alternates in the "stess areas" but our contract stated alternates would be installed in walls and floor so I made them come back and install alternates throughout.

    Passed inspection Friday and will get gunite Monday.









  • PRO
    Aqua-Link Pools and Spas
    11 years ago

    Just FYI. You cannot use brick for blocking up steel. It is not the same as using a concrete dobie. The brick is a weaker material.The inspector should catch this.

  • jscozz
    11 years ago

    Is it a common practice to run plumbing under the pool? Other than drain lines, I don't think I've seen that in too many other pictures on here. Seems like that is a lot of weight on top of that PVC. Especially once filled. How does that not affect the plumbing? Seems like it is better to run the plumbing around the outside of the pool.

  • bumdaddy
    11 years ago

    Collin02, can you please let me know the following:
    1) Who is your pool builder?
    2) Ballpark estimate for that bid?
    3) If you have been pleased so far with them.

    THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!

  • PRO
    Aqua-Link Pools and Spas
    11 years ago

    bumdaddy, I would personally keep looking. IMHO.

  • collin02
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Bumdaddy -

    1. Builder is Riverbend Sandler
    2. I will be happy to reply by email with the estimate. Just send me a note through the forum.
    3. We had a few minor bumps in the road...partly because I am a perfectionist, partly because I am an engineer and partly because there were some things that just needed to be corrected. All of the issues have been resolved to my satisfaction.

    I would be happy to discuss further. Just let me know.

  • bumdaddy
    11 years ago

    Any finished pics? Would love to see how it turned out!

  • womanowned
    11 years ago

    I have never seen plumbing like that running through the pool. Is that typical in Dallas? I have built pools in Houston, Austin and San Antonio, but have never seen anything like that. I can't imagine how this would be better than laying the lines outside of the pool. Less work, but hard to repair any lines that might get broken since the plumbing is covered. Odd

  • poolguynj
    11 years ago

    I would expect that due to the lack of space outside the perimeter, the lines really had no other place to be run. That he added bedding over them is good as this will distribute the pressure being exerted by the weight of the pool and water.

    I do hope the hollow bricks and blocks were exchanged for proper dobies.

    I am concerned for the spa's Quad Jet. It looks like the air and water loops were reversed. Normally, the air loop connections are on the upper loop as seen on the single jet bodies.

    Scott

  • bumdaddy
    11 years ago

    I believe every riverbend sandler pool in dfw is made that way regardless of yard space. I asked the pool builder and he gave me a reason but unfortunately it's all Greek to me.

    It did worry me, but they build so many pools for so many years, you'd think there would be a big outcry or it wouldnt pass inspection if it was bad. If you search for riverbend on the forum you can find a ton of pics of their pools built this way. Not saying it's right or wrong, it's just how they do it. I'm trusting them.....hope I don't regret it in 10 years.

  • collin02
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Sorry I've been slacking...here are some photos to take you through completion.

    Gunite:

  • collin02
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Tile and masonry:

  • collin02
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Plaster...we chose tahoe blue river sand.

  • collin02
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Finished! At least until October when we will start working on landscaping.

  • piaa
    11 years ago

    Beautiful pool :)

    Quick question - where are your steps and how many do you have. Thanks so much

    Piaa

  • Blair McWay
    11 years ago

    Is the finished plaster wet edge satin matrix? Is the color Northshore Tahoe?

  • collin02
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks Piaa. The steps are where the bubbler is in the picture directly above your post. There are a total of three steps. The top step is a large "tanning ledge" that is approximately 6" deep with a bubbler in the middle. It is excellent for lounging around and is a great play area for our 18 month old.

    Runingfeet - our plaster is an in-house blend from Riverbend Sandler (our pool builder). They call it river sand. They also have river rock which has larger pebbles. The color is tahoe blue.

  • austin_tx_pool12
    11 years ago

    Hi, if you still follow the forum, I was wondering why the gunite beam extended an additional foot past the coping on the side by your home. In other words, after the coping was installed, there was another 12", or so, of gunite that was under the travertine. I don't recall seeing this on other builds in the forum. Thanks!

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