Try removing power overnight.

Scott

No dice... same problem. Pool tech came out today and called Pentair - they had him check voltage and he said I was at 263V and that the pump was doing exactly as it was supposed to. I had my electrician come out and the voltage was at 250. PGE came out after that to test but found no issues. At that time, the smart meter was showing 247V. Waiting to hear back from the pool company tomorrow morning.... any ideas how long you can go without filtration before problems set in?

While dirt will accumulate, you can add bleach to bring your chlorine level up. Stir it up with a pool brush. USe a scoop net to capture any debris.

Your voltage is still a little hot. It shouldn't be more than 240, especially under a load/no load condition. Did PGE offer any explanation as to how the voltage suddenly dropped 13 volts? Or how it got to be 23V over the normal 240?

Scott

PGE said that anything +/- 10% of 240 is considered normal, so even 263 is technically within normal range of operation. My electrician agrees with PGE completely. My pool company again talked to Pentair and they said the pump must operate within +/- 10% of 230V. This does put a voltage of 263 technically out of range for the pump, but so far I have yet to see the voltage spike that high. It remains around 250, and today my PGE meter showed the voltage as 246. I tested again and the pump only runs for a few seconds before shutting down. I flipped the breaker off for about 2 minutes, then disconnected the RS-485 cable and put the aqualink in service mode. Then I tried starting the pump and it ran for a full 60 seconds before shutting down. I reproduced this several times, all the while my utility voltage was holding steady at 246-247 volts. The mystery continues. Thanks for the advice on keeping the pool limping along without filtration - I might need to do that.

Get the bleach in ASAP. Don't wait or you will be making more work for yourself when the pool starts getting cloudy and forming algae.

Scott

Pentair has produced a GFCI specifically for this pump, because it tends to run havoc on the electrical system. Not sure if this is your problem since you still have power, but, if it is cutting on and off, you may need the new GFCI that Pentair has commissioned produced through Siemens.

Do you have any specifics on the problems others encountered with the intelliflo and standard Siemans GFIs?

Its my understanding that they made this GFI for all pumps because of the code change that all pumps must be on a GFI. I don't think it has anything to do with voltage in the line just the load.

Test the voltage at the connections to the pump while its running. If the voltage is within 10% of 230 you may have a bad drive on the pump.