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drex_gw

help with aqualogic ps-4

drex
15 years ago

Thanks in advance for any assistance that may be rendered.

I am a DIYer and quite frankly was not very happy after contacting Goldline to find out why "NO CELL POWER" is occurring on my PS-4 Aqualogic system. I am the second homeowner, and of course, its out of warranty.

Issue: No chlorine generation. Tried all the resets/service light/breaker off for 12 hours/etc.

I can hear the relay try to establish power to the cell, but then the error occurs. And the cell is not reading the sodium level (its 3200 per the pool place)... so , does anyone know if it is the CELL or the control board that is damaged?

Is there a way to indirectly or directly check the cell to see which one is the culprit??

(yes the cell is CLEAN, btw!)..

Any assistance would be IMMENSELY appreciated.

And no, after seeing the install work, I don't trust the local yocals to work on this.

I have a new PS4 logic board waiting for me at the pool pump places for $510; would like to hopefully replace the correct piece, and not spend any more than that.

Thanks again!

Comments (103)

  • mm04
    14 years ago

    I've got the same problem as Karl_pool. Apparently I have a bad flow switch. Can anyone suggest a site where I can purchase one at a reasonable price? Thanks.

  • jeffreysmarshall_embarqmail_com
    14 years ago

    I received the dreaded "no cell power" message after about 44 months of operation. Goldline replaced the board after I fussed about it and once installed it shows no readings for salt/chlorination, or all the timer options I need. How can this be programmed??!?!?! Thank you.

  • bignick
    14 years ago

    Programming instructions are in the manual. If you don't have one, you can download it from the Goldline web site. In the configuration menu, you'll need to enable the solar option. There may also be an option to tell it which salt cell you are using; make sure this setting is correct. Kinda lame that the installer didn't make a note of your settings and copy them to the new board.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Goldline Controls Manuals

  • heychey38_hotmail_com
    14 years ago

    I also got the no cell power message and the board was replaced. Now... I am getting that the chlorinator is off because of very low salt. However my salt level is 3100. The diagnostic menu and the default menu both now say that I have 0000 ppm. Can I override the chlorinator off command? How do I get it to read the correct salt amount?

  • escalante1
    14 years ago

    I was checking out a chlorination problem on my AQL-4 and I took the trouble of tracing the circuit that provides power to the Cell system. If you want a copy of the hand drawn diagram send me an e-mail request.

  • grizzard
    14 years ago

    this message is to escalante1,,, how do i request the hand drawing of the circiut that powers the cell? I do not have the burnt pin at K1. I would love to trace this circuit and try to make a repair myself, surely this cant be that hard, all the componets should be availible somewhere other than Hayward for $700?? Thanks for the help

  • ckeller32
    14 years ago

    WOW...thanks so much for this page and instructions! You saved me over $850 this past weekend and the system is up and running fantastic!.. it was an easy 20 minute job!....

    YOU GUYS SAVED MY VACATION!

  • scotb
    14 years ago

    Can anyone help out with a wiring diagram of the OLD PS-4 mainboard? My old board has the same "K-1 burn-through" that you have all had, and I replaced it with a new one that is wired slightly different. Now, it has failed also (not the K-1) and I repaired my old board but can't reinstall it due to the different wiring. My old board that I want to re-install has only ONE orange wire and the new has TWO. So, if you have the OLD board with one orange, can you help me out? I just need to know what wires go to which rectifiers. Thank you!

  • runcdm
    13 years ago

    Yep. Same exact problem here. Looking for someone to fix the fried joint for me. I can't solder at all. I'm certainly down for a class-action suit against the company. They clearly could care less - until they're hit with a lawsuit of course.

  • runcdm
    13 years ago

    Resoldered the fried joint myself. There's a post above with a link www.nocellpower.com that i used. All systems seem to be working now. Thanks to you guys who shared this info, saved us hundreds.

  • lynnegall
    13 years ago

    Hi all -

    My system is 5 years 4 months and I have had the "no cell power" message since April. I attempted to fix the K1 joint this weekend, and while the connection did not have a "burn" mark it definitely looked a bit skimpy. I added solder and started it up, and lo and behold! the "no cell power" light went off!! so yay!

    BUT!!!

    Now the doo-hickey (capacitor, maybe?) with all the wires located next to the K1 element (sorry for the ridiculous description - I am defintely an electronics neophyte!)has a significant vibration and is heating up quite a bit - to the point where it will periodically cut off to cool down. When it cuts off, or stops vibrating, all power to the cell cuts off too. Additionally, since the "repair", the pool lights do not work.

    I have checked the fuses and all seem OK, and I have removed and reseated all switches and connections, but still have the same problem.

    Any ideas on where to proceed next? My pool builder is happy to replace for $750, but before I go there just want to make sure I have explored all options.

    Thank you in advance - I look forward to any recommendations!

  • lproto_bellsouth_net
    13 years ago

    Hi. Can anyone help me ? My salt reading on aqualogic ps4 with 5 month old new motherboard is not reading correctly.
    Cell is clean btw. The - and + are not the same. The + reads 200 and the - reads 3200 but according to testing the salt is way too high 4000!! Question is this the cell I need to replace or is the motherboard broken again? Thanks for the answer;)

  • just-a-pb
    13 years ago

    First try unplugging it and plugging it back in. Sometimes it doesnt seat well.
    With huge differences in - and + readings it is usually the cell that is bad.
    Generally the cells last from 3 to 5 years, depending on how well they were taken care of.

  • poolguynj
    13 years ago

    What is your water temp? As the water temp drops, it's conductivity also decreases. This is what cells use to check the salinity.

    Typically, a 5 degree drop from 75 will show a 200 ppm decrease continues that trend with each 5 degree drop, at least with Pentair cells. I can't see the Hayward's being all that much different unless they have temperature compensation like an Auto-Pilot. Even still, they still shut down in cold water, typically around 60 degrees F.

    Are there any errors being reported? What are the voltage and current levels being reported in the Diag menu? Are you reading the instantaneous levels?

    After following just-a-pb's suggestion, if the issue isn't resolved, Power down the PS-4 for a couple minutes and power it back up. Check the clock, then check the Diag menu in 15 minutes.

    Test for FC. if it's low, use Clorox to get it where it belongs. The pool calculator will tell you how much. That will get you by until this is resolved.

    Scott

    Here is a link that might be useful: The Poool Calculator

  • 1manor
    12 years ago

    Having same problem, and my blower is dead also. What are relays K2 and K3 for? Figure I'll fix them all at once!

  • king_6_sympatico_ca
    12 years ago

    My aqualogic had the same 'no cell power' message (1 year after warranty is up of course). Thank god I found this message board before calling my local pool company at $100/hr, who usually have no idea what they are doing when it comes to the aqualogic anyways.

    Thanks to previous posts I knew to disconnect and check the back of the circuit board, it was the K1 circuit just as everyone had said. I called a couple of pool and electric companies, and they had no idea how to clean and/or resolder it. So I called a computer repair company and asked if they would take a look at, 1 hour and $10 later the circuit board works again!

    Thank-you everyone who took the time to post this information online, you probably saved me close to $1000 and I am very appreciative. I hope others find these posts useful.

  • twochicklets
    12 years ago

    Hello,
    I am bumping this thread to keep it on everybody's mind. I am a longtime member of GW and built my pool with you folks, I think it is still getting viewed in the gallery. It is now 4 1/2 years old and we still enjoy it immensely. Recently we got the "no cell power 2" error message and like everybody else, we were told we would need to replace the board at a cost of about $750 (parts) plus labor. I started googling and found nocellpower dot com where there were lovely, easy to follow instructions on how to fix this problem. The website even acknowledges my favorite forum, gardenweb and even mentions navyet!! So thanks to navyet and darentx also, THIS WORKS!! It took me 2 tries at soldering, I think I used bad solder the first time but it works! I think I spent about $30 on supplies and that is because I bought a soldering iron, if you can borrow one your cost would be practically nothing. Hopefully this fix lasts, I have faith in it. So all you new pool owners, keep this thread in the back of your mind if you go with the aqua logic. Obviously, it has a design flaw if over 300 people have commented on that website, just think how many people use their info and don't comment!

    Here is a link that might be useful: the very helpful instructions

  • sdudek8_gmail_com
    12 years ago

    looking at the PS4 system. would most of you folks out there still purchase this system if you had to do it over again? Thanks steve

  • tenkids
    12 years ago

    Reviving this thread is so timely! We have repaired our board now
    3 times, and it has failed again. We replaced the K1 relay as well. Our system is 4 years old, so we must be nearing the end of our cell life, tho it has always been clean. We have an Aqualogic PS8.
    It looks like the new replacement cell requires a new board anyway, and the new board, if we got the Pro vs the Main, requires a new display. Sheesh.
    So we want advice. We are thinking of tossing the whole dang thing, and replacing it with an Intellichlor. Or we could do just the Intellichlor cell and power supply, and keep using the PS8 to control the waterfall, Hayward LED lights, etc.
    Which leads to another ?. Will the Pentair be able to control Hayward lights smoothly?
    We will never buy another Hayward/ Goldline product. To have a $1500. system fail after 3 years is disgraceful.
    Last question, are there any known issues with Intelichlor like the Aqualogic one?
    Any advice is appreciated. Seems the minimal fix is 1,000 dollars.

  • poolguynj
    12 years ago

    Pentair EasyTouch with a cell and remotes as needed or a Jandy/Zodiac RS-8, cell, and remotes as needed.

    Scott

  • tenkids
    12 years ago

    Scott,
    Thank you for your reply. I think the easyTouch will work. I decided against the "Gee whiz" Intellitouch due to expense. I would like to use the IC 60 since I have a 32k gallon pool. I only have a pool ( no spa), so I have a pool pump, waterfall pump, booster pump, Colorlogic lights. It seems that the IC60 only comes bundled with the EasyTouch 8sc ( part number 521150). It's $2k. There must be a cheaper way to do this with the IC60. My pool builder went out of business, so I am orphaned here.
    Thanks for any advice!

  • tenkids
    12 years ago

    Ok, I think I've got it. I talked to Azwholesales, and he said he could bundle an IC 60 w a 4p, and charge me the difference in the cells. I'm looking at $1162. before shipping.

    He also said Pentair is coming out with IPhone capability
    for the EasyTouch in Aug/Sept time frame.
    It will just need the interface added to the existing stuff. Sweet!

    Thank you for your help!!

  • popamor
    12 years ago

    I have fixed my K1 relay a number of times using the information from here. Now my unit is showing a voltage of 40V. That is too high I am told. Any one has this issue? I think mine was damaged during the last thunderstorms in our area. Any easy and cheap fix that anyone know of? Please help. Thanks.

  • longranger
    11 years ago

    Hi started my pool today and i get check system (check system pool brake conn)???any idears,Thanks

  • Nad1
    11 years ago

    Hi Everyone,

    I am having the same issue regarding the "No Cell Power"....

    This is my Aqua Logic Goldline box:


    I easily removed the cover:

    And when I removed the control box, as per the vedio above, the back of the circuit board looked clean without any burned out ends.............

    Are there any other suggestions for me? Thanks in advance to anyone who comments.

    Cheers!

  • Kdouglas
    11 years ago

    my check system came on my NEW, 4 month old logic system...all I can figure out from the diagnostics menu is it MIGHT be the flow switch...not really sure.

  • Jayp3002
    11 years ago

    I was getting an alarm on my display - Chlorinator off -with no salt reading showing. After checking my cell, I realised the problem was in the PCB. FOund the solution provided earlier about the solder on K1 and sure enough after resoldering, the chlorinator came back on and the salt reading started to show (3100 ppm). however, my display continues to show 'Low volts' with the yellow alarm light, despite what I think is correct reading for approx 3000 ppm chloride. Any advice on how to reset the alarm?

  • brianboggus
    11 years ago

    I've ordered my digi-key parts and paid for 2-3 day shipping. In the meantime if anyone has any suggestions on the preferred soldering material I'd appreciate any replies. New to forum, not electronics, aside from the aqualogic DIY ps-4 fix. I'm open to suggestions too! Thanks in advance. SGT of Marines 91 - 99. Fixer of my own pool hardware.....or at least about to be I hope!

  • ScottyB2
    10 years ago

    My Goldline Aqualogic system is over eight years old. When I got the "no cell power" on the display, I just figured that it was time to replace the cell or maybe replace the entire system with a new one. I'm glad I searched on the problem, because I just finished re soldering the connection and the problem is gone! Maybe I will get another eight years out of it. Thanks for the sharing this fix.

  • jennheaton2
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    so I have the same no cell power problem. and the nocellpower.Com site doesn't show the instructions. So I went on YouTube and watched a video of how to solder the k1 switch as mine was burnt as well. I soldered it turned everything back on and I still get the no cell power reading online display. So I soaked myturbo cell in the muratic acid and water ratio hook everything back up turned my breakers back on powered up they filter and I still get the same message of no cell power. So now what to do?

    This is why my burnt k1 looked like when I first removed the panel.

  • Rankin Becher
    8 years ago

    I had the same result as you.... I ended up with a new board though I wish I had tried taking the board to someone skilled enough to replace the K1. The part itself is available from Newark electronics for a few dollars.

    Double check the 20 amp fuse on the other side of the board... and if at some point you get the system working .... check your salt level independent of the system (pool store) and make sure the salt level is not high... high salinity equals high amperage and as a result places stress on the motherboard K1.

    Too bad Hayward doesn't stand behind this product and do the right thing. It's just a bit too coincidental that everyone goes down this same path.




  • jennheaton2
    8 years ago

    Thank you Rankin. Yes I forgot to add in my comment that I had already checked fuse as well. Prior to soldering the K1, my salt level was showing 0900 and this was prior to opening up since winter. Now I am getting the No cell power 2 message since all I did yesterday. Also before all I did yesterday this is what my display was showing as well.....does anyone know what it SHOULD say?

    And I agree with you and everyone else who post on this and other sites that Hayward/Goldline should be held accountable for all this being so common. I get its a business but last I looked, we were the customers and while this box is only part of pool installation, forking out more money after paying $30k makes me sick when something like this happens to so many. I may research another Brand to use if I cannot fix this as I refuse to keep this unit going with so many issues that they will not revamp.

  • Rankin Becher
    8 years ago


    Here is mine from today.... 900 ppm is really low and typically you want between 2800-3200.... When a salt cell starts to go bad it will display very low salt readings..... ( that is why I suggested that you take your water to the pool store for testing...you can't trust the display).... Low readings lead you to add more salt than is necessary .... Once your salt level gets high and you clean or replace your cell, the volts and amps skyrocket like yours is displaying.....that is what leads to the overtemp of the board..... make sure that if you invest in fixing the system that you get your salt level normalized before turning it on....

  • scotb
    8 years ago

    A dirty cell can also cause the salt reading to display lower than you know it to be. A quick acid/water cleaning will restore normal readings. I have had my system show a low reading even when the cell LOOKED clean, then return to normal after a thorough acid cleaning.


  • scotb
    8 years ago

    Well, re-soldering takes about 15 minutes once you remove the board, or less than an hour for removal, repair, and re-install. Total cost: $1. Replacement board from e-Bay: $400+. Your choice!


  • jennheaton2
    8 years ago

    Yes Rankin I did clean the cell in solution took cell into pool store for testing and it's fine. I do have it unplugged as my salt tested at the pool store 5000! I didn't realize my board was miss reading so we dumped a bunch of salt when opening it for summer. Soldering didn't work for me on my k1 switch. So running as chlorine pool for now until salt level comes down to 3000-3200.

    Scotb, yeah ours was 7 yrs old before we ran into this problem. May wait til salt level down, plug in and try again. If not may need to resolder but not sure how to get old solder off. Other option would be to order a new k1 from mouser yet when I got to that website, I have no idea what to select once I put k1 in the search bar as several options come up for what kind type etc that I need. Frustrating!

  • jroymd
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I have a similar K1 problem with my Aqualogic PS4. I took 10 years to occur, so I guess I was lucky. I read all the posts about new boards and resoldering the K1 joint, but I was a little mystified as to why the same solder joint fails all the time. Those boards are probably wave-soldered by a machine, so there is no human element involved. The only reason the same joint fails is that something makes it fail. I inspected the circuit board and noticed that the power resistor attached to the K1 trace was somewhat toasty. I have included pictures of R45, although the discoloration and small crack don't show up too well in the picture.

    The resistor is supposed to be a 0.2 Ohm 1 watt resistor (Red-Black-Silver). The resistor may be a half-watt item, but I am not sure. When I removed and measured it with a DVM is came out to be 0.447 Ohm (although the resistance varied with how much manual pressure was applied to the resistor casing). Normally resistors are not prone to thermal-runaway like semiconductors, but I am not sure about newer metal film resistors like these. Anyway, it does not measure out to be the right resistance. I decided to put in a heavier wattage resistor along with resoldering K1. Power 2 watt low resistance resistors are a little hard to come by on Sunday afternoon. The only local place for resistors is Radio Shack, although they have markedly reduced their supply of resistors recently. My sole choice was to put two 0.47 Ohm 5 Watt resistors in parallel to approximate the burnt 0.2 Ohm resistor. Unfortunately, there was not enough room for the enormous power resistors, so I put one off to the side of the fuse and one behind the circuit board in parallel, then layered in some high temp solder on the trace (after scraping off the green trace insulation and not the copper trace). I actually wrapped one leg of a resistor around the K1 leg that normally fails. I am hoping that the wire wrapped K1 joint and the layered in high temp solder (mp 455 degrees F) will afford a little added heat resistance to the K1 joint. , I would probably recommend a simple 2 watt 0.2 Ohm power resistor swap if you can find one.
    The system is working currently (no pun intended). I believe there was a design flaw originally, because the power resistor was unable to handle the current load to the power cell. (I also know that I am not an electrical engineer and might be completely wrong.)

  • jennheaton2
    8 years ago

    Jroymd, this is great info and very informative! Thank you for sending this message along w pictures. Will try this too n c if it works for mine!

  • LeRoy Valley
    8 years ago

    Hello!

    I am getting the same issue as described as above with a slight difference. I returned home from vacation to a green pool (ugh!), and found the error listed above.

    I resoldered the connection listed, and my system now chlorinates... 50% of the time. When going into diagnostics, it shows 0 amps when set to +... if I hit the button to switch polarity, all works when voltage and amperage shows negative. Hit it again to switch to positive, and it shows voltage, amperage drops quickly to 0.

    Will replacing the relay itself fix this issue? It's a cheap part - only about $3, so I think I'm going to try.

    Any other ideas?

    Thanks in advance!

  • jennheaton2
    8 years ago

    Where did you find the relay switch for $3?

  • jroymd
    8 years ago

    Before you replace the relay, because it is difficult to unsolder and more expensive, try replacing the R45 resistor as I outlined in the post above. I do not think the relay is at fault. I would just use a 2 watt 0.2 Ohm power resistor, and keep it away from the adjacent hot transformer and power transistor (Q1). I'm not sure why someone would layout a PCB with a hot transformer (with no heat sink) next to a power transistor (with no attached heat sink) next to a power resistor. Just make sure that you add some insulation to the resistor leads so they don't make contact with any other electrical component. (Disclaimer: I cannot be held responsible for any equipment failure due to technical misadventure as a result of lack of electrical repair expertise.)

  • LeRoy Valley
    8 years ago

    The local parts store has a 2 watt .22 Ohm, and a 2 watt .18 Ohm... Since this is heat failure, I am assuming it would be better to go with the .22 Ohm?

  • LeRoy Valley
    8 years ago

    I found the relay switch on ebay for $2.89... of course, shipping was another $4. If you can find a supply store that carries them locally you should get one for between $2.75 and $4.

  • jroymd
    8 years ago

    Leroy,

    I doubt if there is much difference between the 0.22 and the 0.18 Ohm resistors, but you are probably right to go with the 0.22 Ohm resistor. It should not affect the current in the power cell circuit appreciably. (Then again I am not an electrical engineer.)

  • LeRoy Valley
    8 years ago

    Update on my repair: I replaced the resistor 1st, and I noticed no difference in operation. My unit is still only working when applying negative voltage, nothing when positive. I found a site that I wanted to share with everyone:

    https://www.saltsolutionsinc.com/

    This company out of Tampa will offer a repaired board for $180 with exchange! I ordered one, it came in 2 days, and it works great! I found out they also rebuild salt cells at a fraction of the cost of a new one!

  • Frank Gallucci
    8 years ago

    I have an "Communications Error 1" on my screen. The timer, pump and chlorine work but I cannot change anything with the control with the "Communication Error 1" always on the screen, can anyone help??? Frank

  • John Graham
    7 years ago

    I just fixed the no cell power issue by soldering the burned out joint. I am trying to find board schematics so I can try to resolve my clock issue of a Goldline Hayward GLX-PCB-MAIN board. The clock works but regularly will lose the correct date and time. I am sure it is a wire/solder issue.

    Thank you for any help.


  • MyProambition
    6 years ago

    Communication error- all the display reads is communication error. Pressing buttons does nothing. I have flipped the breakers. I have no idea where to begin. Please help!

  • smkohler
    3 years ago

    I have a Hayward Goldline Aqua Plus and my salt reading also went to 0000 when just a few days before it had a normal reading of 3200. I could smell a burnt electronics smell in my control panel and was ready to buy an entire brand new system (>$1k) but decided to take a look at the main PCB. Long story short, the solder under the relay was obviously burnt out. I soldered in wires from the relay directly to the chlorinator connector and all is working perfectly again. It took me about an hour from start to finish. Thanks to all for the insights.

  • parindpatel
    2 years ago

    Can you please share how you connect wires directly from relay to chlorinator? Need to do the same.