When installing a new water softener for a boiler application if the water line is 3/4 " and the inlet and outlet of water softener are 1". What size should line be from where you tie into 3/4 " line over to the softener. For instance do you out of the3/4" tee increase to 1" inch line right away and run 1" into softener head or do you stay 3/4" line and just bushing up with adapter into the head and also how about on outlet side do you run 1" back over to the 3/4" line or just bushing down to 3/4" right out of softener head?

If you have sediment, absolutely install a sediment filter upstream from the water softener. Although your softener will act as a sediment filter if it must, it will damage the resin. A sediment filter can either be a backwashing media filter (looks similar to a softener), or a cartridge filter. Both work very well. A backwashing filter will cost much more to install, but can mostly be ignored once it is operational. Filter cartridges are cheaper to install, but filters should be changed every six months or as needed.

If you choose filter cartridges, look for "Big Blue." Go with the 4" diameter, not the 2".

You didn't mention any other water parameters. Since you are on well water, it is important to have a comprehensive water test to include: TDS, pH, hardness, alkalinity, sulfides, iron, manganeses, bacteria, any others recommended by your local lab

As to softener size, if hardness is your only issue you should be looking in the 1.5 - 2.0 cuft size range. However, if you have iron and/or manganese in your water they will greatly affect proper softener size. If the home has been there for years without a softener and you don't see signs of iron (rusty stains) or manganese (black stains that aren't bacterial), then they likely won't affect softener size, but even tiny amounts will affect resin life, so best to be certain.

Since you are not happy with your Kinetico rep (for good reason), either Culligan or the independent will be fine. My preference would be the independent dealer over Culligan solely because Fleck parts are readily available from multiple sources whereas Culligan parts are only available from Culligan.

You want to ensure your new softener meets some basic standards:

• High quality American or German made resin. This will provide a tight size distribution for optimal flow within the resin, longer resin life, and more reliable, predicable water softening.

• Since you have WELL WATER: 8% crosslinked resin.

• Top basket. This serves two purposes. It sets up a proper water distribution during normal operation and prevents resin loss during backwash.

• Gravel underbed. The gravel underbed is there to set up proper flow patterns, improve backwash, keep the bottom basket in place, prevent basket failure, and prevent channeling. Many softener sales companies like to leave this out or sell softeners with a vortex system instead. Vortex systems weigh less than gravel so they cost less to ship. In addition, they are a more expensive item that adds profit for the softener salesperson, but provides no additional benefit to the homeowner . It simply adds another piece of equipment that can break.

• Fleck or Clack valves. These set the industry standard. Be aware that you will not be able to purchase Clack valves online. This is not a problem if you purchase locally.

• The valve should regen based on water usage, not time.

• Noryl bypass. Most softeners are available with either Noryl...