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Outdoor shower revisited

User
9 years ago

In our ongoing remodel, I am trying to put together a more permanent outdoor shower than we had before.

While the other one had a water supply off the hot/cold connection of the washing machine, and no sewer drain, this one will be a stand alone shower on the deck, with a sewer drain and dedicated hot/cold lines coming from beneath the house. None of the water supplying the shower will be inside the walls. I plan both shut off valves for the supply lines, and separate hot/cold drains for the shower itself.

My desire is for an arching of the pipe to which the rainfall showerhead is connected. No mixer, but instead a cross valve to connect both legs, with the shower riser going up, and the handheld shower wand going down out of the cross connector in the middle. A separate adjustable bar for the handheld shower hose and head is already in my possession.

What I need to know is, must the ID of all parts be the same?
I found a reasonably prices solid brass (chrome finish) riser for the shower head. It has 1/2 inch ID.

Then there are the heavy duty freestanding TUB supply lines which are 37 1/2" tall and those require no wall supports, only under floor supports. Those two are 3/4" ID and 1" OD, with a rose at the bottom so that 4" of the height is under the floor. They will require under floor supports, which will be beneath the wooden deck.

Both these parts are available from Signature Hardware online.

Not being in contact with the plumber who is the subcontractor on our remodel, I have no one to advise me. I wish to keep it as simple and straightforward as possible. The ugly stuff of most valves from shutoff of each water supply, and the drain of each pipe, will be accessible beneath the deck.

This is an exposed outdoor shower. No covering. It will have a drain to the city sewer. I read in the 2007 thread about an exposed outdoor shower (link to it is below--it came up when I googled for the subject) and it said sewers do not like rain water to enter the system. I can see that a pan cover would work nicely when not using the shower, and also raise the pan to same height as rest of our deck. The really nice shower pan the contractor had fabricated is lovely, and could be sheltered fairly easily, without blocking off the deck.

So. The question is really the ease of combining 2 different pipe IDs and ODs. Or should I plan on same size ID which would require wall braces and more holes drilled into the tile on the house exterior wall to studs or blocking.
Thanks for your help.

.

Here is a link that might be useful: GWeb Plumbing Forum Outdoor Showers

Comments (9)

  • snoonyb
    9 years ago

    Since "warm", would be the natural resultant, are you missing one;"and separate hot/cold drains for the shower itself."

    There are reducers for pipe fittings.

    And why not a top to also support a curtain, unless of coarse.............

  • User
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for your reply, Snoo. I will be shopping for the pipes, nipples, reducers, 4-way "cross" in the middle, pipe holders/brackets/standoffs/whatever to keep them steady.

    What am I missing? VALVES!

    Plumbing is not my natural domain, I'm more into the ornamental side of remodeling, not the plumbing craft. I lost my picture that I was using as a guide for the bottom part beneath the deck. So I plan to leave that to the plumber to figure it out, after I give him my assortment of parts as I imagine he might need. Then I'll return the unused stuff to the store.

    One thing I cannot find locally is a 4-way "cross" ....which I need (no mixer for this shower) to take the hot in from one side, the cold in from another side, a nipple down for the hand held connection, and the riser up for the fixed rainhead. With appropriate shutoffs/volume controls. I have a homemade riser and the rainhead to reuse from my old outdoor shower.

    The contractor delivered the fabricated metal shower pan which measures about 42 x 48 with a drain hole in the middle. I have enough space near the wall to run the supply pipes just outside the lip of the shower pan from beneath the deck.

    A cover? Hmmm, overhead is not a problem. Since this will be a city sewer connection, I am adding a shower pad/drain/whatchamacallit (a wooden grid of lumber, but I cannot find the WORD right now) which will support a rubber deck-level mat to keep any rain out of the sewer system. Some louvered doors can be folded out of the way when not used as a privacy screen--only one side has any exposure.

  • snoonyb
    9 years ago

    Why would you need a "cross"?. you have two supply lines, each into opposite ends of a "T" and out to the shower head.

    But back to;"and separate hot/cold drains for the shower itself."

    Why?

    Why metal? And the curbs should be 4" above the deck traffic level.

    "Since this will be a city sewer connection," and showers are required to be connected to the waste system, other than pool showers.

    "I am adding a shower pad/drain/whatchamacallit (a wooden grid of lumber, but I cannot find the WORD right now) which will support a rubber deck-level mat"

    Why? as a matt or grid to elevate the walking surface above the metal pan?

    "to keep any rain out of the sewer system."

    How about an enclosure?

  • User
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I like the look the shower will have with a 4 way cross in the middle. It is symmetrical, and the hand held going DOWN and the UP riser for the rainhead will have simple arrangements. Just an inline valve for each.

    I like the wood grate on the bottom, and my DH can build one for me, unless I choose to try it myself. It will also serve to keep the shower pan fairly level with the deck, so no one trips over it. And, the big parrot cage can roll into it easily when he takes a shower too. And the dogs.

    An enclosure would defeat the whole concept of an outdoor shower. I don't want one. If the location was off by itself, that would be different....maybe....but for this application, I don't want a phone booth or an outhouse sitting on my narrow deck blocking the view and the sun from the veggie garden.

    For that matter, I can get one of those clawfoot tub shower rings, but that is also overkill for this simple installation. My plumber is not available right now, but I'm sure he will eventually put in his advice.

    Maybe this picture of the area under construction will explain some things. No railing on the deck, except sailboat lifelines through the posts. I think the pan for the shower i laid on the deck....and it is 4 inches deep with a center drain hole. The tall post was left to anchor the curtain/screen from the north end. Construction is ongoing as you can see.

    Thanks for your interest. Amateurs such as myself don't know what options are available.

  • snoonyb
    9 years ago

    You are obviously not permitting this project.

    Goog luck.

  • User
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    The entire project is permitted. So far anyway.

    If it is only possible to get the simple shower that I want without a permit, then that is the route we'll go....unless it results in some shadow cast upon the house itself. We have an irrigation water meter, which does NOT drain water to the sewer, so it could be hooked to that with a small electric water tank spliced into the line, and a switch to turn it on only when we wish to use the shower. Maybe I'm being unrealistic, but then I've never remodeled a house before.

    We are doing everything we can to bring the 1950s stick built house UP TO CURRENT CODE, which is fairly stringent since we are located south of I-10 in Alabama, which is hurricane code zone. Insurance is not cheap here.

    The plumbing work is not yet underway..and the permit yet to be pulled....however, I called the plumber a short while ago, and he is checking on two issues with the city inspector.

    First issue, there is a mixer valve required for regular showers by code. He is asking if this outdoor shower will be exempt from the mixer or not.

    Second issue is the drain and exposure to rainwater entering the sewer system. So that's where we stand now.

    Since the deck is lower than 32 inches above ground, a railing is not required.. To me the deck and back of the house looks like a river dock, so I wish to use the sailboat lifelines even though nothing is required. Each post will have a copper cap on it. But, that part of the work is not plumbing, so I did not mention it here.

    Both of us are gardeners, and our two dogs are digging dachshunds. And a large parrot loves his showers regularly. The old shower I had connected by splitters off the washing machine water supply spigots, was a godsend for us. If we have to do something complicated to meet code, and the result would cramp the open access to the deck, we might resort to another option....whatever that might be.

  • User
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Here is a picture of a system I'm describing, without the part concerned with supply and draining the system.

  • User
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    The second image shows more of it. and more attractive components.

  • User
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    And the third example, a bit down and dirty in execution, but it shows the entire setup....supply line, a drain spigot for both hot and cold, no mixer, a shower head up top, and a hand held wand What more could anyone wish, prettied up as much as they liked.