You can see the website at ProBite.com

Thanks for any and all input. I just am researching the possible use of these types of fittings for adding whole house filter and possibly a water softener system. Not very far along yet.

Les

For instance, I note the Sharkbites are rated for only 200 PSI, whereas conventional fittings seem to all be rated for 600 PSI. True, the ambient pressure of your water supply should be < 75 PSI, but the problem arises when WATER HAMMER occurs. Water hammer can create localized pressures MUCH higher than ambient. There must be a good reason for mfrs. to build to a 600 PSI standard, when 200 PSI would be cheaper.

I am also EXTREMELY DUBIOUS of ProBite's claim that their push fittings are rated and approved for UNDERGROUND use, since not even sweat solder fittings are approved for such! (Seems to me that a combo of compacted soil, settling foundation, or thermal expansion, or seismic activity, could press on the disconnect ring!)

And the PRICE! For the price of 2 plain elbows ("ells"), you could buy a basic BernzoMatic torch, propane included! For the (inflated) price of a simple coupler, you could buy a lifetime supply of solder, flux, and flux brushes! Holy smack, the valves are 60-100% pricier than conventional valves, and the simple fittings are 2,000+% more expensive!

Sweat soldering is not welding, and it's easier than you think. Obviously you'll want to practice on scrap pipe, not your new water softener, lol. You can do it, and you will then be on a higher plane of DIY-ness! Family and friends will be impressed! Angels will sing and a heroic aura will surround thee! You'll say "yeah, I did my own install" with a certain nonchalance, while checking your manicure... ;')

And even if torch-work is out of the question, good ol' wrench-tightened COMPRESSION fittings will seal you up tighter than any ____bite, for less cash. Just remember to use TWO wrenches--one for counter-torque--so pipe doesn't get twisted.

I wonder if the licensed plumbers have any tales to tell of service/emergency calls related to ___-bites??

For the added 'cost', SharkBites saves you money on labor, propane or mapp gas, flux, solder and the cost of fittings....and are therefore usually cheaper to use in the short and long run.

SharkBites can be used to connect pretty much any type piping material to any other.

SharkBites do not add 'weak points' to a plumbing system but plumbing codes do not generally allow them to be used in concealed locations. (But codes also do not allow other types of similar mechanical connections, like compression fittings, to be installed in concealed locations either.)

In short, professional plumbers often rely on SharkBites to make short work of repairs with long lasting results.

SharkBites do not add 'weak points' to a plumbing system but plumbing codes do not generally allow them to be used in concealed locations. (But codes also do not allow other types of similar mechanical connections, like compression fittings, to be installed in concealed locations either.)

Sharkbites are prohibited in concealed locations because they are WEAK and UNRELIABLE, just like compression fittings!

More to the point (which you tried to DEFLECT), the RELEVANT comparison is to SWEAT-SOLDER connections, which are clearly stronger, more reliable, and PROVEN FOR DECADES as suitable for concealed locations.

Propane is cheap, and so is solder and flux. Do it right, sleep at night... wake up to a dry house! ;')

Let someone ELSE do the ____bite "field testing" on THEIR house!

I forget if that's the one on PBS or commercial stations, but you have to wonder if ____bite is one of the sponsors or advertisers, lol.

Rich Trethewey used them to install a whole house water filter.

Which is an EXPOSED location, so fine. It's probably fine for niche applications like this, and low-skilled DIYers who don't want to get "too involved"... but plumbing a whole house or major re-mods? NYET! NEIN! ;')

Richard echoed this exact sentiment in the post-segment discussion.

SharkBites are fine and approved.

Use them with confidence.

Both install and operate the same way. You decide, lower price, better warranty, wider selection and repairable... what would you choose?

I would have to be really, really lame with a torch for this to make economic sense. Joint preparation is almost the same amount of time, the only part that's cut out is the fluxing and soldering. I could possibly see using these where I couldn't use a torch because of proximity to combustibles or because I couldn't get positive shutoff... but other than that, I think not.

In addition, I can pick up a wide range of fittings from a plumbing supply, to the local corner hardware store. If I'm on a job and run short, I can grab what I need just about anywhere. That's a huge advantage for the weekend plumber who doesn't have a truck full of fittings on a job.

Let's see... fast, cheap, fittings available almost everywhere and super reliable joints - why wouldn't I use soldered joints?

I have personally used ProBite I think it is a great product. I was able to plumb my bathroom myself and to me it just does not get better than that.
Jake asked " Why wouldn't I use soldered joints?" I ask why would you? All I had to do is, cut the pipe, de-burr the pipe, measure the length to push the fitting to and then push to connect. I think this way sounds alot faster!
ProBite fittings are just as reliable and I don't know about the rest of you but my time is worth something to me.

Just lots of claims about being listed.

Threaded fittings are more solid and not a lot harder to install.

Just remember to never use a female plastic with male metal threaded combination.

The metal female threaded can split the plastic male in short order.

I soldered as much of the new piping as possible before bringing it into the crawlspace (ball valve, male fitting to connect to backflow preventer, some elbows/T's). I used the Sharkbites in areas where solder joints were impractical. This included a joint that had multiple network lines running in the joist bay directly above the joint, and in areas where the joints were in close proximity to insulation or joists. I could have made a heat shield from a piece of HVAC duct or something, but I've seen more than one house burn after a quick soldering job sparked a fire....

In summary, I think they're great for here and there use, but too expensive for widespread use. I'm not worried about them freezing, cause I plan to blow that section of piping out in the winter anyway.

Having repaired galvanized pipe breaks the old way and using the bite fittings, the time and effort saved makes the price far less than its worth and makes switching to new copper fast and easy if the customer wants to replace in sections.