Sorry, but that is completely wrong. Take a look at the link for some general info. You need an end waste kit and ONE trap.....and none of that accordian stuff, either.

Here is a link that might be useful: end waste kit

Don't worry about the leak you've got some very serious mistakes here.
Look at the illustration posted be homebound. From the looks of the height of your wall drain I would go with the second option.
If you are going to DIY I would suggest taking the pic that you have and homebound's illustration to your local home store and ask if they could get the parts you need.

Credit to lazypup for those drawings.

As was pointed out above, there are a number of serious errors in your current configuration...

I have annotated the photo to point out the code violations

The easy and correct solution is to remove all of what you have and get a "Disposal Type-End Waste Kit" & an 1-1/2" P-trap.

Remove the Metel flange that is holding the elbow on the disposal A slip the flange on the cross tube in the end waste kit. The flange will be straight and has a flat flange fitting on the disposal end- (Make sure the black rubber gasket is in the disposal port when you attach the cross tube.)

Attach the tailpiece on the left hand sink.

Now attach the baffled tee that comes with the kit..(You may need to cut the cross tube or tailpiece to custom length)

Now attach the P-trap from the tee tailpiece to the trap adapter at the wall and your finished. (Here again, you may need to cut the tailpieces for custom fit.)

A hacksaw with a fine tooth blade works best for cutting the tubes.

Ok i followed your advice and and everything went smoothly until i came to connecting the p trap to the wall pipe. As you can see they are offline by a few inches. I tried turning the pipes with no luck. Also its hard to tell from the picture but if you could see a side view of this the wall pipe and pipe from the sink drain would actually touch if i tried to connect them. I have a bad feeling the next post is the obvious that i have to have the wall pipe moved ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh helpppppppppp.

What you've done looks much better.

It difficult to tell from the pic so I will assume the problem may be the p trap you are using. It looks like you are using a thread adp and plastic compression gasket.
Try a trap that is a hub (female) and a short section of pipe and glue it into the drain.

If that still too close to work cut the pipe where it comes through the wall between the wall and tee. Use a several 45o and or 90o to move over the offset.

If the tee is too close the wall to cut, you'll need to remove the tee to expose the pipe. To do so cut off the tee itself just at the end of the pipe. Then with care use a hacksaw blade to make 4 to 6 cuts on the hub part of the tee not going too deep as not to cut the pipe itself. Use a chisel to chip away remaining hub. Clean up the pipe using sandpaper. Then 45o/90o's

If it still a no go cut a hole in the wall, cut the pipe replace and re-adjusts the angle and again uses 45o and or 90o. Make it easier on yourself and cut a large enough hole to work in.

I'm sure that was as clear as mud. Sorry I've used all three methods but never put it in writing.
I hope that helps.

Its obvious that Confire is not a plumber....LOL

I think I can see the problem but it is difficult to be certain when looking from this angle,,,can you shoot another photo from the disposal looking sideways back to this joint? I need to see that pipe coming from the wall and the amount of clearance you have from the trap adapter to your new trap.

Pray tell what part of my "dissertation" do you take issue with?

1. All that nonesense about cutting the hub and chiselling it away......I can assure you that you never learned that in a plumbing class.

2.You made no provision to replace the tee, yet the tee is a vital component.

pup
Replacing the tee was implied as was installing the Sure Vent or equivalent.

Short of telling the poster to call a plumber I was under the opinion that this forum was to offer advice to those who ask. My suggestions were real world repair that the poster could do his self.

May I suggest to you Sr. Get over yourself.

Good night

Just because they are doing a DIY "real world" repair, is not an excuse to negate code....

On the other hand, if you don't know how to do it correctly you should not be offering advice..now get over yourself....

At the risk of Lazypup's wrath, may I suggest turning the p-trap forward (toward the cabinet door) and using a long waste arm that passes by the trap as goes toward the wall drain? Looks like it would fit except maybe hitting one of the finger nubbies (replace the ring if so).

...or, would it be ok to swing the trap to the right, having the waste arm come back to the left and make a 90 turn before it goes into the wall drain connection?

Are either of these permissible? (Bring on the wrath.)

We're having fun now huh p3arljam? lol

You stated you replaced the sink with this new one. I'm just guessing now and yes I could be wrong but judging from the looks of the sink strained is it from Ikea? I ask because some of theirs (and some others) have the drain hole set back further in the sink making the overall drain closer to the wall. This sometimes can be problematic.

My first post may not have been as clear as I would have liked but was intended to explain how to move the wall drain and vent configuration to get it back closer to the wall to obtain more room for trap connection.

Give homebound suggestion a try. If it still won't fit and you can't move the tee further back And Lazy Pup wont come over, I have one more thought.

Before spending the money calling a plumber, have you considered switching the garbage disposal to the other side? You would still have to remove the existing tee to get correct angle but give you about 10" to work with. You then could use a wye to line up the trap arm and still have room for the vent. Place a cleanout plug in the other opening on the wye.

Again my friend, Good Luck

Here is a view from the garbage disposal. As for where i bought the sink i bought it of overstock it is a Vigo. I really appreciate all the help I'm not trying to be cheap and not call a plumber but i am renovating the whole house by myself for resale. Trying to save some
money where i can.

sorry the picture was rotated i will try and upload again but as you can see the wall outlet is really close.

Looks like you might have a 90 slip fit elbow connected to that trap when you should have the longer waste arm that came with the p-trap kit). You probably have the piece there somewhere. Swing the trap forward, connect the waste arm to it so that it's turned around backward toward the drain connection, and see if it works. (This will seem to make a loop out of the p-trap.)

Ok i tried what the last post suggested and everything lined up great now the question is will this pass code and drain properly?

sorry the last post i made the photo needed to be rotated but I'm sure you can tell what i did please tell me this will pass code.

That's it.

Going forward, remember to check those connections for tightness occasionally, especially in the first few days.

That looks perfect,,,,will easily pass code and will drain fine.

thanks for all the help guys i really appreciate it.