Just replace the whole system - it will be cheaper and easier. I have no way of knowing what your two extra tanks are for, and the label picture has too much glare to read, so let's just start from scratch.

You can treat your water with just a softener, provided you don't also have a sulfur problem.

You want a 1.5 cubic ft system.

The following requirements are for an industry standard softener. If you are looking for a non-electronic softener, Kinetico offers the more reliable options at a premium price (and you would need to deal with a local Kinetico rep). Any decent softener vendor should be able to provide the following:

• High quality American or German made resin. This will provide a tight size distribution for optimal flow within the resin, longer resin life, and more reliable, predicable water softening.

• If you have WELL WATER: 8% crosslinked resin.

• If you have CITY WATER: 10% crosslinked resin. The oxidizers that city water treatment plants use, such as chlorine or chloramine, are harmful to softener resins. Higher crosslinking will resist chemical attack longer.

• Top basket. This serves two purposes. It sets up a proper water distribution during normal operation and prevents resin loss during backwash.

• Gravel underbed. The gravel underbed is there to set up proper flow patterns, improve backwash, keep the bottom basket in place, prevent basket failure, and prevent channeling. Many softener sales companies like to leave this out or sell softeners with a vortex system instead. Vortex systems weigh less than gravel so they cost less to ship. In addition, they are a more expensive item that adds profit for the softener salesperson, but provides no additional benefit to the homeowner . It simply adds another piece of equipment that can break.

• Fleck or Clack valves. These set the industry standard. Be aware that you will not be able to purchase Clack valves online. This is not a problem if you purchase locally.

• The valve should regen based on water usage, not time.

• Noryl bypass. Most softeners are available with either Noryl or stainless bypass valves. Both are good valves, but the noryl tends to be more reliable when not used for long periods of time.

• Brine tank: Although either round or square will work, round brine tanks are more structurally sound and will not deform like a square tank will. Additionally, if you need a softener 1.5 cuft or larger, a square tank will most likely be too small.

• Install the softener with a three-valve bypass. This will make it so much easier if you ever need to remove the softener for repairs or wish to take it with you when you move. Use full-port, quarter-turn valves.

You also have iron/manganese in your water. Because of that, you will need to take some extra measures. The problem with iron-laden water in a softener is that softener resin has a great affinity for iron and does not release it easily. Iron will slowly foul the softener...

thank you Alice.

do you recomend adding a sediment filter? If so, Pre or post softner?

Is the water safe to drink post softner as is? or should we add a RO system?

thank you forehand.

Whether or not you need a sediment filter is entirely dependent upon whether or not there is sediment in your water. If you notice particulates in your water, then install a sediment filter. Just ensure the following:

1. 4" filter, NOT 2.5" for whole house filtration.

2. If you have lots of sediment, use a 20" filter. If not, a 10" is fine.

3. Use a "Big Blue" or equivalent brand filter unit. I prefer a clear housing because it provides a good visual indication of when filter changes are necessary, but a solid housing is absolutely fine.

4. Install with a 3-valve bypass for easy filter changes.

5. Pressure gauges before and after are a great way to know when to change the filters, but only if you keep a log so you can tell when pressure drop increases over time.

6. Sediment filtration always goes upstream from the softener. Otherwise the softener will filter most of the sediment and become damaged.

If you have city water, your softened water is safe to drink. Some people dislike the taste of softened water - an RO is purely a matter of taste. If you have well water, you will want an okay from a certified lab, at least annually to determine drinking water safety. If the water is deemed safe for drinking, you may still wish to have an RO for purely taste reasons, or as an extra measure of protection. Your call.

This post was edited by aliceinwonderland_id on Mon, Nov 3, 14 at 18:49