I'll need help in size/type of the system & type of controller I should get.

Water supply - city water
people in house - 3 adults, townhouse
bathroom - 3 washrooms; 2 baths
Flow rate (hot & cold taps full open) - 13.21 gpm

Information from town :
Water hardness - 7.26 gpg
Coliform - 0-1 (min# - max#)
Chlorine - 0.26-1.29 mg/L (min# - max#)
Mercury - <0.02 ug/L
Selenium - <0.0001 mg/L
Uranium - 0.0003 mg/L
Nitrite - <0.001 mg/L
Nitrate - 0.468 mg/L
Lead at distribution - 0.0001-0.0017 mg/L (min# - max#)
Sodium - 15.27 mg/L
PH - 7 to 8; ~ 7.6
Iron - non detacted
Manganese - non detacted
Copper - 0.032 mg/L

Questions :
1. should I get rock base + resin or just the resin ?
2. Is there different type of resin available (any brand is of higher/better quality) in the market ? The salesman mentioned a "regular" resin and a "finer" resin.

Thank you for your help.

Here's their site:

http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/customer/home.php

I will contact Jean once I got my specifications. Thanks for your link.

Best Regards

Best Regards to you too.....

For example, if you actually have no iron, a 0.75 cubic ft softener will do nicely. However, if you have just 1 ppm of iron, you would need a 1.25 cuft softner - that's a pretty big difference.

In order to properly size your softener, we need to know:
pH
TDS
hardness
alkalinity
iron
manganese
sulfates

As to your questions:
1) Absolutely you want a gravel base in your softener. This will ensure you get proper flow without channeling and improve backwash. Many softener providers will tell you this is not necessary, but they are incorrect. The issue is that gravel is heavy and expensive to ship. Too bad - you need it. The only time you shouldn't have gravel is if you have a turbulator. I don't generally recommend one though as they have a tendency to be a maintenance issue.
2) Any made-in-the-USA resin will be of high quality. You don't need fine-mesh resin (that simply means that the resin beads are smaller diameter) in your case, but since you are on city water with some chlorine, you do need resin that is 10% crosslinked, rather than a more standard 8% crosslinked resin. The 10% crosslink will withstand the chlorine and provide longer resin life.

It's generally a good idea to get a local water treatment company out and see what they recommend. You may get lucky and have a good one. See what they can offer your - you may be pleasantly surprised.

So happy to see your reply. Sorry I cannot response to you earlier because of health issue in my family.

I will try to get my own water tested but don't know how and where at this point. From previous reading in this forum, I guess I need to contact a lab. I will post my result as soon as I have it.

I have talked to some local water treatment companies but my feeling is I can't trust them. Especially after reading this forum. More like sales talk and give me prices to think about than telling me what's actually in the tank. I will compare prices after I have the spec but I don't mind buying from USA and get it to Canada myself.

Thanks again.