Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
swampwiz_gw

How much distance should there be between the toilet & wall?

swampwiz
14 years ago

I am wondering what is the standard. I suppose that being flush (no pun intended) could be a standard, but somehow I think that there should be some sort of small but discernible distance.

Comments (16)

  • lazypup
    14 years ago

    Code minimum is 15" from the centerline of the bowl to any wall, fixture or appurtenance on either side.

    Under the IRC there is a frontal clearance of 21" from the front edge of the bowl to any wall, fixture or appurtenance.

    Under the UPC the frontal clearance is 24".

    Although those are the code minimums, in the real world those distances are really tight for comfort.

  • swampwiz
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    No, I meant the distance from the back of the toilet to the wall - something on the order of 1/2-1".

  • lazypup
    14 years ago

    The standard setback is 12" from the center of the closet flange to the finished wall.

    The actual clearance between the back of the tank and the finished wall will vary from one manufacturer to another.

  • kudzu9
    14 years ago

    There is no standard or requirement for the gap between the back of the toilet and the wall. Stick with a 12" setback and let the gap be what it will be. If you try for less setback to minimize the gap, you may have a fit problem in the future when you go to install a different toilet and find it varies enough that it hits the wall.

  • swampwiz
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    OK, so you all are saying that the center of the toilet drain should be 12" away from the center of the wall? Or 12" from the finished wall?

  • hendricus
    14 years ago

    Finished wall. Too much discrepancy on center of walls, 2x4 studs, 2x6 studs, 2x3 for a mobile home.

  • live_wire_oak
    14 years ago

    If you'd pick up that $19.95 basic plumbing book I suggested (The Black and Decker is a good one with lots of pics) and a copy of Code Check, you'd already have answered most of your many basic technical questions that you seem overloaded with.

    The aesthetic questions are mostly a matter of your own personal taste.

  • oneslip
    14 years ago

    DO NOT just assume that you have a 12" offset. You need to measure from the bolts to the wall. As an example I have more rare 14" offset. If I had bought a 12" offset toilet I would have had a 2" gap from the back of the toilet tank to the wall. I have seen any where between 1/2" to an 1 1/2" space. You want atleast enough room to be able to put the tank lid on without scraping paint.

  • brickeyee
    14 years ago

    "I have seen any where between 1/2" to an 1 1/2" space. You want atleast enough room to be able to put the tank lid on without scraping paint."

    Enough room for a compact roller (about 1 inch) is a good idea.

  • franklin1955
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    My plumber stated that if you sit the toilet to close to the wall, mold could develop in back of the toilet. I would like to know if this is a true statement, or a quick fabricated untruth, because the toilet is sitting around 3/4 of an inch away from the wall.

  • kudzu9
    8 years ago

    Franklin-

    1. It's always best to start your own thread rather than digging up an old one and tacking a new issue on to it.
    2. Unless: a) the toilet is in contact with the wall, and 2) you live in a hot and humid area where the tank has condensation on the exterior when it fills with cool water, mold is not an issue.

      In addition, having the back of the toilet sitting 3/4" away from the wall is just fine. When toilets are installed there is some variability between various models and the distance to the wall varies. You do not want to try to have a toilet where there is no space between the back of the tank and the wall because you can't be sure if the toilet and/or tank are seated properly.
  • PRO
    By Any Design Ltd.
    8 years ago

    I like to see about a 1/4" - 3/4" gap when possible. Typically the rough in's are set at 12" - 12 1/2" off of the wall studs so after drywall you get left with a 11 1/2" - 12" space. Toilets today are so different. They have different mounting approaches and different styles. Knowing the toilet prior to the building is key. Since the set backs and things like floor heat all need to be considered.


    Get the toilet on site and measure it. Think about wall panelling, tile or stone. Then work out the best set back.

  • mhyrrbenz
    7 years ago

    HI. Woke up to new floor tiles and wall in 5x7 bathroom, but wall is only partial, since plumber has to extend pipes out, as new studs replaced old are bigger. The toilet was 12" and I was groggy when plumber called but I know that new floor tiles are about to be damaged today, either with need of offset flange or some other procedure to get toilet to fit new fatter wall. I looked up 10" toilets and there may be 2 at Lowe's, with questionable reviews. If I use the offset flange method to bring toilet forward will that be doable and less destructive and use my current normal sized bowl, or go straight for 10" rough bowl? Either way, I am mourning damage to new floor placed yesterday and new problems, since contractor and plumber did no heads up to me after sheetrock was placed about why some pipes were not extended beforehand. Yikes.

  • alexashorne
    6 years ago

    The plumber installed a new toilet in our 100 year old house. It sits 4 inches from the wall!! It also doesn't seem to be quite level. I called him back and he explained that the floor is not level. I HATE IT!! What can I do???

  • kudzu9
    6 years ago

    alexashome-

    It sounds like your plumber is incompetent and/or lazy. Modern toilets typically measure a bit less than 12" from the back of the toilet to the center of the outlet, which is called the offset. If the distance from the wall to the center of the sewer line in your floor was substantially greater than 12" (which is possible in an older home) he should have explained that you would have this problem and offered suggestions.

    The best option would have been to move the hole in the floor closer to the wall by getting at the sewer line under the floor and re-doing it. If that is not possible, then an offset flange would get the toilet 2" closer to the wall. There are also some toilets that can be ordered with a 14" offset, rather that the standard 12", and the combination of that toilet with an offset flange would allow you to have the toilet up against the wall without redoing the sewer line.

    As for the toilet not being level, this can be caused by an unlevel floor or a toilet flange that is sitting too high. If your situation is because of the flange, the plumber was negligent in not setting the flange lower (which would been more work and more cost to you). If your situation is because of an unlevel floor, the plumber was negligent in not using plastic shims to level it and prevent rocking.

    If you decide to follow any of these suggestions, use a new plumber and not the hack who did the work you are unhappy about.