There is no versus in the choices you are considering. An RO under the sink, while it will give you good drinking water, will do absolutely nothing to protect the pipes in your home. The low pH water will need to be addressed if you wish to protect the pipes in your home. The system you install in your existing house will transfer to your new home easily.

I would not recommend a neutralizing filter for your water for a couple of reasons:

• First, a neutralizing filter will add a great deal of hardness.

• Second, 10x54 is most likely too small anyway. You don't want to exceed 3 gpm per sqare ft of filter area. A 10x54 filter only has 0.54 sq ft of area, so you would be restricted to 1.6 gpm. A neutralizing filter of sufficient size would be prohibitively large.

• A standard neutralizing filter would be unable

  to raise the pH of your water sufficiently.

You need a system that pumps dissolved soda ash or sodium hydroxide into your water based on water use. These systems require a little more attention from homeowners, but they do a much better job on low-pH waters and have the added benefit of not adding additional hardness to the water.

Before you go any further, you need to obtain a complete water test. There could very well be other dissolved components in your water that will drive the treatment choice. In addition to pH and hardness, you want to know: TDS, sulfur compounds (sulfates, sulfites), nitrates, bacteria, iron, manganese. There may be other items that your local water lab will recommend based on their analysis of other waters in your area.

There is no versus in the choices you are considering. An RO under the sink, while it will give you good drinking water, will do absolutely nothing to protect the pipes in your home. The low pH water will need to be addressed if you wish to protect the pipes in your home. The system you install in your existing house will transfer to your new home easily.

I would not recommend a neutralizing filter for your water for a couple of reasons:

• First, a neutralizing filter will add a great deal of hardness.

• Second, 10x54 is most likely too small anyway. You don't want to exceed 3 gpm per sqare ft of filter area. A 10x54 filter only has 0.54 sq ft of area, so you would be restricted to 1.6 gpm. A neutralizing filter of sufficient size would be prohibitively large.

• A standard neutralizing filter would be unable

  to raise the pH of your water sufficiently.

You need a system that pumps dissolved soda ash or sodium hydroxide into your water based on water use. These systems require a little more attention from homeowners, but they do a much better job on low-pH waters and have the added benefit of not adding additional hardness to the water.

Before you go any further, you need to obtain a complete water test. There could very well be other dissolved components in your water that will drive the treatment choice. In addition to pH and hardness, you want to know: TDS, sulfur compounds (sulfates, sulfites), nitrates, bacteria, iron, manganese. There may be other items that your local water lab will recommend based on their analysis of other waters in your area.

There is no versus in the choices you are considering. An RO under the sink, while it will give you good drinking water, will do absolutely nothing to protect the pipes in your home. The low pH water will need to be addressed if you wish to protect the pipes in your home. The system you install in your existing house will transfer to your new home easily.

I would not recommend a neutralizing filter for your water for a couple of reasons:

• First, a neutralizing filter will add a great deal of hardness.

• Second, 10x54 is most likely too small anyway. You don't want to exceed 3 gpm per sqare ft of filter area. A 10x54 filter only has 0.54 sq ft of area, so you would be restricted to 1.6 gpm. A neutralizing filter of sufficient size would be prohibitively large.

• A standard neutralizing filter would be unable

  to raise the pH of your water sufficiently.

You need a system that pumps dissolved soda ash or sodium hydroxide into your water based on water use. These systems require a little more attention from homeowners, but they do a much better job on low-pH waters and have the added benefit of not adding additional hardness to the water.

Before you go any further, you need to obtain a complete water test. There could very well be other dissolved components in your water that will drive the treatment choice. In addition to pH and hardness, you want to know: TDS, sulfur compounds (sulfates, sulfites), nitrates, bacteria, iron, manganese. There may be other items that your local water lab will recommend based on their analysis of other waters in your area.

Water analysis is not my strong suit.
But the effects of water on plumbing components are known. Jet pumps have an impeller and a volute above ground and a venturi (jet) between the water source and the pump. Often the jet will be at the bottom of the well. A check or foot valve will be the component nearest the water source. All four of these named components are subject to chemical and mechanical erosion from the water and sand (if any). Unavoidable.