You can't post a PDF on this forum.

Just list the test results and don't forget the units of measurement... grains, ppm, ppb, and so on.

Your SFR #s are garbled, please re-post. Same with copper pipe sizes.

As long as the softener won't freeze outdoors is OK. Where is the effluent from the softener regeneration routed to currently?

Any small 350va or 500va UPS will protect the softener from brown-outs. I've had great success for many years with the APC brand. Great warranty. You would prototype a UPS in an outdoor installation like you'd protect an electric panel... in a weatherproof (resistant) enclosure screwed to a wall.

Need to take a typing class...

You would prototype a UPS in an outdoor installation like you'd protect an electric panel... in a weatherproof (resistant) enclosure screwed to a wall.

Should read...

You would PROTECT a UPS in an outdoor installation like you'd protect an electric panel... in a weatherproof (resistant) enclosure screwed to a wall.

Hey Lurker,
No worries about your post. I knew what you meant. thank you, great idea. My bset friend is an Electrical Contractor so we will make it weatherproof! I am faliliar with the APC brand. Good stuff. I will click onto their website after I post the water sampler info up for you. I am printing out the PDF now. Sorry about the glitches. For some reason this Forum dose not like commas & decimal points???

Here's the water sample results from the Lab:

PH= 7.40
Total Hardness = 410 mg/L
Calcium Hardness = 210 mg/L
TDS = 530 mg/L
Nickel = 2.6 ug/L
Copper = 1.9 ug/L
Lead = ND
Chromium = ND
Nitrate as N = ND
Nitrate as NO3 = ND
Turbidity = ND
E. Coli = ABSENT
Coliform = ABSENT
Residual Chlorine, Free = ND
Residual Chlorine, Total = ND
Arsenic = 0.29 -0.30

SFR = 8-9 Gals per Minute.
Copper = Mixure of .750 & 1"
Effluent from the softener regeneration routed currently to a drain from the pool filter backflush 2" Pvc.

Thank you for the clarifications so far...

No iron or manganese test results?

Hey Lurker,
Hmmmmmmm, I just looked thru the entire report from the Lab & no mention of Iron or Manganese at all? I will call the Lab first thing tomorrow morning & find out why??? Wow

Quick question on the Hardness?

I used an online calculater to convert mg/L to GPG & it tells me 23.95 GPG? Is that correct, Pretty Hard water we have??? Please bring me up to speed... Thank you

Link to Calculater: http://www.unitconversion.org/concentration-solution/milligrams-per-liter-to-grains-per-gallon-us-conversion.html

ppm or mg/l divided by 17.1 = gpg

My water is running around 40 gpg this year and I'm on a water system.

OK, thanks for setting me strait. Wow you have some Hard water where you live. I will re-post tomorrow morning after I talk with the Lab. Thanks again for the help so far...

Hello Lurker,
I just returned home from dinner & a beer it dawned on me. I am hopping you see this in the morning? In addition to Iron & Manganese is there anything else that the Lab didn't put into the report that you need from me to start making some decisions/recommendations for a new softener system?

Well I am still waiting for the Iron & Manganese totals from the Lab. Yesterday they claimed that they do not do those 2 elements routinely? Frustrating when your paying $250 for a complete water sample done. I am bugging them today so hopefully I will get the results & post them up today? Sorry

Hello Lurker
Well the Lab has got back to me finally with the results on Iron & Manganese.

Iron = ND
Manganese = ND

What do you think for a softener system? I see you really like Ohio Pure water. They look good/ very fair prices.....

I'm sure lurker will chime in here as well.

Two people in the home and 24 gpg hardness:

100-150 gallons water usage per day is a bit of a broad range. Sizing for 150 gallons per day, a 1.5 cuft softener would regen every 8 days. At 100 gallons per day, a 1 cuft softener would be fine. If we assume your average usage is in the middle, around 60 gallons per day per person, a 1.25 cuft softener would be just right.

Bottom line: unless Grandma has a lot of visitors or you expect water usage to increase, go with a 1.25 cuft softener.

Just to keep it all in this thread, from CigarLover on another thread:

"So now I get an email back from the Lab a few mins ago saying they are sorry for the mix up but they had an issue with the Iron & Manganese test of our well water. They reperformed the test & the results now are as follows:
Iron = 68 ug/L
Manganese = 3.4 ug/L

I will never use this Lab again! Soo frustrating..... "

Iron and Manganese are low enough they do not modify my recommendation as to size.

Ensure when you order you get:
1) Noryl bypass
2) gravel underbed - required, unless you get a turbulator, but gravel is cheaper
3) 8% crosslinked resin made in USA (you will get better resin bead size control and longer life)
4) top distribution basket (this is a small, inexpensive part - don't let them tell you it costs a bundle)
5) no need to upsize the brine tank (some will suggest this)

Alice,
OK sounds great! This is the best news I have had today. I see that you & Lurker also recommend fleck control valves. The old fleck we have has been great all these years. I was thinkin the 5600SXT would work well for our application with the 1.25cu that you have chosen. What do you think would be best in addition to the really nice options you recommended. Yea I agree with the gravel, I have heard those turbulators can give ya grief. Also what are your thoughts on this "Vortech" system that OPWC sells? It's a little more money, is it worth it?

http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=22407&cat=767&page=1

As Alice recommended a 1.25 cube softener is right on the numbers and you might consider a 1.5 cube and set the calendar override for 7 days.

If the plumbing at the current softener is 3/4" then a Fleck 5600SXT with Noryl bypass is a good choice. If the plumbing is 1" then the Fleck 7000SXT is the way to go.

Chiming in with Alice again... name brand resin made in the USA is worth the trouble to shop for. Top basket and gravel for SURE. No tubulator or Vortech.

Pick the brine tank that fits where you need to put it. The 15x17 is usual for this size softener and you want a Fleck 2310 safety float assembly in there.

Hey Guys,
I think we are getting close. I just spoke with Jean at OPWC, What a sweetheart she is! Very impressed with her customer svc. So I discussed the system/sizing with her as well as the add-on options Alice & you Lurker told me to get with the Softener. She agreed on all except the Gravel but I said it was a MUST. She asked if 16Lbs of Gravel would be good? I said not sure? I am in contact with my Plumber that is going to help install the system to confirm the size pipe so that we can make a decision on the 5600 or 7000 Fleck valve. I think it is .750. Also, we discussed the upgrade to really good "USA" resin 8% cross-linked. She said that they can sell me "Purolite C100E" for a little bit of an up-charge. I said, let me run-it-by the Experts? Lastly, I am thinkin for just $25 more you have a great point Lurker to maybe go with the 1.5cu Softner for insurance? Man you guys have made this make sense!

Online sellers hate including gravel. It's cheap enough but HEAVY so they have to eat the shipping cost.

Purolite is a name brand resin and quality stuff.

We try to make it as easy as we can despite posters making it much more difficult than it needs to be.

Hey Lurk,
OK sounds great I will go with the Purolite resin unless you guys say there's something out there in the resin market that's better? I'm in contact with my plumber buddy to figure out what to do on the valve size now. What are your thoughts/experience with these flex line kits?

Link:

http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=793&cat=463&page=1

Hey Lurk,
OK sounds great I will go with the Purolite resin unless you guys say there's something out there in the resin market that's better? I'm in contact with my plumber buddy to figure out what to do on the valve size now. What are your thoughts/experience with these flex line kits?

Link:

http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=793&cat=463&page=1

Falcon Stainless are first rate and top quality. I have them on my own softener. They come in a variety of terminations and connection options.

You might want to take a breath and slow down before you make a mistake.

Hello Alice & Lurker,
I have taken your constructive advice Lurk to slow down. With that being said, I have a few details to firm-up with you guys before I finalize an order with OPWC. My plumber buddy & I have agreed that going with the 3/4" valve would be best instead of trying to up-size the copper to 1". He has one question for you guys regarding the Noryl by-pass & yoke? Are they UV rated/stable? The Softener is located on the side of the house outside in the elements so we want to insure were all good before install.
Here is what I have OPWC quoting me tommorrow that you guys have specd-out:

1) 1.5cu Softener (Insurance for more softwater if needed)
2) Fleck 5600SXT Valve with protective cover for outside
3) Norly By-pass & Yoke male thread
4) 8% crosslinked resin made in USA (Purolite C100E)
5) Top distribution basket
6) Gravel underbed
7) Rectangular 15x17x36 Brine Tank
8) Fleck 2310 safety float assembly
9) 15x17 Rectangular Brine Grid w/Legs
10) Falcon Stainless Flexible Hose Kit for 3/4 Inch Noryl Yoke
11) Stainless Jacket for Resin tank (looks nice & we had one on the other tank)

Anything I forgot or needs to be added gentlemen???

"My plumber buddy & I have agreed that going with the 3/4" valve would be best instead of trying to up-size the copper to 1""

Where did that come from? Are you reading the posts at all?

Look six posts up... "If the plumbing at the current softener is 3/4" then a Fleck 5600SXT with Noryl bypass is a good choice. If the plumbing is 1" then the Fleck 7000SXT is the way to go" The plumbing size determines the valve size and connection not what ever adapters you have lying around.

"He has one question for you guys regarding the Noryl by-pass & yoke? Are they UV rated/stable?"

Since both a Noryl bypass and most contemporary control valves are made of Noryl then the Noryl bypass will be as stable as the control valve. You like to read... go to GE and read up on Noryl or just Google it. IIRC there are environmental covers available for some Fleck control valves when they are used outdoors.

You have now used up your allotment of free advice... good luck to you and your plumber buddy.

Noryl: Lighter colors will see some surface degradation in sunlight. The surface will yellow and become more brittle. Darker colors, particularly black are better.

Ditto what lurker said about environmental covers - get one.

"Anything I forgot or needs to be added gentlemen???"
I don't think I am physically able to answer that question. I find it amusing that competent tech people are assumed to be gentlemen. Not intended to be snarky - just an interesting phenomenon this lady sees frequently.

Once you have your softener on hand and physically installed, come on back and we can talk about the proper control settings.