Well, how about this? They are too good to be true  only because they are extremely expensive. One would not install a whole system with them. But they are one darned good way to fix a difficult repair in minutes.

While they are a compression-type joint, normally unacceptable for potable water systems, the manufacturer claims it is approved for that, including inaccessible locations.

One of the features is that they are said to be fit-reversible. That may be true. However the only approved method to join PEX is a mechanical fit. Once PEX is compressed, the only way to re-use it is to cut back to original size. Many installations can tolerate that. Some would need to be wholly replaced between joints.

Pinoke

As my Esteemed colleague Pinoke has already pointed out, on first appearance the "Sharkbit fittings" appear too good to be true and as is true of most things, if it appears too good to be true it probably is.

Having read every word of the website listed, including the fine print I can only conclude two facts to be true;

1. As Pinoke previously pointed out, it would be cost prohibitive to plumb an entire system with these fittings.

2. The advertising is very deceptive.

In their ad they state that this product is certified for use by the IAMPO, IRC, UPC & cUPC however there is no mention of any specific code reference number to support that claim.

Point of fact, the IAMPO, IRC, UPC & cUPC do not list specific fittings as approved but rather they list the pipe material as approved when installed per ASTM (American Society of Testing & Materials) standards and there is no mention of any ASTM listing in the Sharkbite advertising.

The advertising does state that this product conforms to ANSI/NSF Standrd 61, but here again, this is a bit misleading because ANSI/NSF Standard 61 addresses "Lead Leaching" from pipe, fittings or solders.

Per ASTM specifications currently only those fittings and tools meeting ASTM standards F-876, F-877 and F-1806 are approved for use on Potable water distribution systems.

I would not use the Sharkbite product under any circumstances until I had first received written confirmation from the manufacturer that they meet the ASTM standards and I had received a written approval from the local AHJ (authority having jurisdiction) permitting their use within the jurisdiction.

Thanks for the quick response Pinoc and Lazypup. I have limited access to the net hence the delay. I will contact SHARKBITE and see if I can get some more info regarding your concerns lazypup. What fittings would you guys recomend? I see there is the SSC crimp fittings, QS style and the PEXpro style(uses expander tools). I will be installing heating lines (baseboard) and hot/cold supply lines. Here is a link of the site I've been browsing.
Thanks again for your time and consideration guys. You are an asset to this forum(s). Regards Pete

Here is a link that might be useful: link

Hello people,
Just recieved a response from CASHACME (manufacturer of Sharkbite):

"Dear Pete,
Thank you for your email and your interest in SharkBite
Fittings. I am going to try to answer your questions as quick and
direct as possible in an effort not to confuse issues as your internet
forum has stated to do.

* Plumbing codes require all products to be "Third-Party Listed".
This means an independent agency tests the product to the appropriate
Code and Standard, and also inspects the manufacturing location annually
to see that the plant is following Quality Assurance procedures.
Attached you will find our listing certificate from IAPMO. You can find
this on their website as well.
* Plumbing codes vary across the country, but none strictly
prohibit the use of these fittings.
* Our fittings are suited for domestic plumbing and heating
applications and are warranted against defects for 30 years.
* The cost effectiveness of these fittings is directly related to
how much your labor rate is and how much you will have to invest in
tools to install PEX with the other systems. (Even a DIY'ers time is
worth something).

If you read and follow our installations instructions (go to
www.cashacme.com for a copy), you should have no problems using our
fittings in your application. Bill Chapman"

I don't think I can attach his file here so if anybody requests I can send it individually. Thanks

I would recommend you take his file to your local code inspector and see what he/she has to say on the subject because in the final analasys that will be the only opinion that truely matters.

I have posted my brief experience with it.

Here is a link that might be useful: SharkBite Reivew

I am a DIY homeowner and landlord.

I am tired to pay the obscene rates the plumbers here charge: i.e. 180$ for changing one outside faucet! This product does away with dangerous soldering and the difficulties of compression connections - and with the greedy plumbers.

I can see why plumbers would hate it: Works too good, too easy to install - spoils the infinite greed of the plumber brotherhood.

Serves them right!

H

Myself, and many of my friends in the plumbing & hydronic heating industry have used Sharkbite fittings in a pinch. They come in handy when you have a fitting that's difficult to sweat when you can't completely stop the water flow, or in a difficult to access area where it's tough to sweat a fitting, or use your ProPress tool and fittings.

i used one and as a diy homeowner it was a lifesaver. i have gone and checked with out local code officer after reading this and he said he has no problems with it, and that they are perferctly acceptable.

The local Home Depot stores have steadily increased the number of SharkBite fittings they carry... both they and the local hardware stores tout it for DIYs.

Professionals who sweat copper joints all day long understandably deem SharkBite to be, well... "unprofessional."

It may not be foolproof, but I can say first hand that even a retired economics teacher can install a new kitchen sink and dishwasher with it!

Isn't there a bit of a problem with this sharkbite engaging, say a copper pipe. Since the pipe is "grabbed" by a steel serrated ring that clamps on to the pipe , there would be electrolytic action between the two dissimilar metals which would eventually corrode oute the copper pipe. Plastic pipe would not have this problem.
In spite of this, I have used these suckers on my own projects for both pex and copper pipe. They are wonderful, quick and reversible, albeit not cheap-- great design.

joeplumb - "Since the pipe is "grabbed" by a steel serrated ring... there would be electrolytic action between the two dissimilar metals...."

Their literature indicates the ring is stainless steel... depending on the grade, etc., that should virtually eliminate any corrosion, correct?

My only concern is that the 1/2" ball-valve tends to rotate around the pipe when the on-off lever is operated. I'm using it as a sillcock winter cut-off valve... used twice a year, and being careful, I don't think it will be a problem.

To answer joeplumb's concern of dissimilar metals, the grab ring is not in contact with water so there is no way for corrosion to start.

I have a couple of these things burried underneath my new bathroom floor (tiled) - but I can see them from a small access panel in my garage ceiling (which had been built to access the tub trap), and if they ever did leak I could get to them pretty easily by making another small access panel in the garage ceiling. They were used to transition from copper to PEX in a very tight location. We were going from a old single vanity to a double bowl vanity in a slightly different spot and a friend that is a licensed plumber thought that going to Pex from the copper with a sharkbite would be the best way to go so we didn't have to solder in some pretty tight spots (near existing ROMEX). I was just going to solder it all with copper piping, but his suggestion was much faster and I didn't have to worry about dammaging the ROMEX!

His oppinion of them were that they were really handy for tight locations but too expensive to bother with anywhere else.

I don't think I would trust a sharkbite valves for the reason Mainemanx said

Quote: "Their literature indicates the ring is stainless steel... depending on the grade, etc., that should virtually eliminate any corrosion, correct?"

Anodic or electrolytic action is a function of two dissimalr metals, stainless steel notwithstanding. Last time I looked, steel and copper are dissimilar. And ambient dew can easily get caught in that space to start a reaction. May take a big number of years, though.

Anybody with additional comments? New experiences? I am thinking of using these inside a wall.
Thanks

pscribner,

You have not mentioned to what extent you are plumbing? You should be fine as plumbers' in my area are using these in various situations; one even recommended that I use them for easy fixes. I would not use this system for a replumb, and they will not replace a truly experienced plumber and the tricks of the trade they have learned throughout the years; the problem is finding a truly good plumber these days.

sorry for throwing this out without backup but someone mentioned to me that you can't bury sharkbites in the wall.

Thanks. I keep getting two sides to this question. I am considering using it for a repair, where the pipe is close to a PVC and am leary of using a torch.

Farenheit - Are these applications for inside of walls? (tradditional compression fittings are prohibited for inside walls where there is no access panel)

In the history of this thread, no one said that they had a problem. However, I am troubled by the fact that the manufacturer's response to an earler writer is evasive or incomplete (that is, did not answer the question directly) Amost all the standards they quoted on their web site related either to PEX or to the health effects of the metals used in manufacure of the product. (see Lazypup's message earlier in this thread). Out of curiosity, I checked some of these standards out and does not seen that there is anything new since Lazypup's post, but ran out of patience and do not have copy of IRC etc). The average consumer or even professional plumber has to spend time checkin these out. This is not a feindly way for a vendor to supply information. If I were the manufacturer, I would list a few jurisdictions where this product is accepted for inside walls.

I may try the code experts in my count gov't this week.

Thanks

I use a plumber that uses them on repairs where needed and here in Canada, they can be buried in a wall. He claims the only downside is they are cost prohibitive but on a repair call out for a minimum $200 he doesn't care if there is ten dollars of fittings (2 fittings) for a half hour job.

However, I am troubled by the fact that the manufacturer's response to an earler writer is evasive or incomplete (that is, did not answer the question directly).
More than likely, the reason is that Cash Acme has no jurisdictional power over what is acceptable at various levels of code. The best way to learn whether it is acceptable in your area is to as you have proposed: Call or visit your Building Department and seek whether they approve SharkBite connectors.

The SharkBite principle is very sound, and the only caveat is that of many othersÂbe sure you explicitly follow instructions. Their site has great how-to videos. I have no issue using them as I understand what the fine-points are, but I am more astute than some of my friends who I would not wish to see installing these connectors as they are not as detailed oriented as they should be about matters.

I have original copper pipe and have used shark bites to reduce the cost of converting to cpvc. They have allowed me to convert a single room at a time while remodeling them versus having a plumber come in and rip out the old plumbing all at once.
I think I first started using sharkbites in 05 or 06. At that time the cost of replacing a leaky cutoff was $200, but without it was not able to solder the old copper. I came across cash acme websites advertising the release of the shark bite in the coming months. I began researching the sharkbites. I was very skeptical. I called cash acme numerous times. If I remember correctly they are approved to be installed in a slab. They mailed me the packets which are now available online. I talked to the local inspector. Compression and push fit fittings were approved for use in the area so I tried them.
At that time the local plumbing houses would only order them individually and would have to wait 2-3 business days. You could only get 1/2 elbow or coupling. With all that trouble and the price they were still well worth the cost. I used them to replumb my bathroom first.
After about a month I called the local plumbing house and had them put me on the waiting list for 3/4 in couplings. I used them to replace my hot water heater. After going through the trouble of removing my old hot water heater I highly recommend using them in this application.
I have been very happy with the product. I actually keep one 1/2 and 3/4 with a capped end incase of a leak. The one piece I have been reluctant to use is the T connectors. I don't think the installation would be easy with rigid plumbing due to the push fit connection. However, with pex I think it would work well.
They are expensive, but have reduced from when they first released them. I think they are perfect for remodeling. On a new house I would only using them on plumbing that I might change in the future, cutoffs, due to maintainence.
With pex you will not have to remove the inner sleeves which are plastic. I highly recommend purchasing extra application tools (orange ring tool) as they always go missing when you need them and are extremely cheap. Hope that helps.

Thanks Folks, You've convinced me to try it. I did not have a chance to call the county building code office during business hours today, but will try later in the week and report back.

My wife and I bought a foreclosed home.....yes full of leaks because someone didn't winterize it. - Their loss, our money pit. In a nutshell, we paid 4400 roughly for the rough plumbing and install of pvc and copper lines to a bathroom we are totally remodeling-except the studs. After paying 2 separate plumbing companies, and a qoute of another 3000 for the setting of the fixtures (even with an offer of 1500 on the side) I said enough is enough! I went to Home Depot, bought a couple of these guys and boom- now i'm the freaking plumber!

One service call costing 400 for 2 leaks and a replacement of a valve could have cost the 6-7 bucks per 90 degree that i needed and the 13-14 bucks for the valve that i could have installed myself.

They are definitly cost effective. Buy about 10+ of these and return the ones you don't need. For shower deverters, they have 90's with the quick connect and threads on opposite ends. I will be using a couple more of these on an outside faucet running under my deck that blew apart when the pipes burst/thawed and i ran water to it.

The one instant that got me hooked on these was when the plumbing guy at Home Depot connected 2 pipes together and he said pull. I pulled the plumbing department guy across the floor. And a second later he had it disconnected. If you don't believe me, then goto the store and try it yourself.

Although, for some people, if you don't have hands I can understand why you couldn't install these. ;)

I installed four of these last weekend as part of my powder room replumbing... moving a sink from one wall to the other and using the plumbing from the old wet bar.

I soldered about 1/2 the fittings... my 1st attempt at sweat soldering... and I think they turned out very well, however, a couple of areas were in very tight quarters where I didn't feel comfortable using a torch, so I used the Sharkbites. They worked great, look great and are leak-free with 100 psi of water pressure.

I'm also using a few to plumb my tankless water heater and have installed three Sharkbite Ball Valves there. Will also be replacing the old 1" gate valve main shutoff with another Sharkbite ball valve, check valve and the new pressure regulator to knock the pressure down to something reasonable.

I really like the way they work... yes the price is high, but they do the job, and make it easy to transition from copper to CPVC like I did when I ran the new refrigerator ice maker line.

I was wondering if anyone has noticed that Sharkbite has a proposition 65 Warning label on it which states: This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer or birth defects or other reproductive problems. In fact an installer/ contractor must by Law must notify thier customer of these risks. Just thought I would pass the info along.

:)

A lot of the same products we use everyday in other States may kill you if they are used in California. Politics.

Regarding the expense of sharkbite products, the cost IMO drops the more PEX piping you use per foot as opposed to copper.

I noticed the preparation of a joint connection takes longer when you mate sharkbite to existing copper. If all the burrs are not removed completely from the copper pipe, you risk damaging the inner rubber seal of the sharkbite connector.

Also that heavy corrosion on you sometimes see on older copper pipes must also be cleaned or the seal may not work. I use fine grade wet sandpaper to remove the corrosion and buff off the sandpaper marks to ensure a good seal. Maybe that is going overboard but I did not want to risk redoing the job.

I used two of these recently when I installed a pressure regulator and ball valve on my supply line. The 90's I used were at the low point of the supply line which left me no room for error on the joints. They worked just fine. I have also used the equalivant on pneumatics for years. At much higher pressures than the standard water supply. I have a lot of confidence in them.

Posted by Hanno Ix(hannoix@sbcglobal.net) on Thu, Jun 21, 07 at 0:32

I am a DIY homeowner and landlord.
I am tired to pay the obscene rates the plumbers here charge: i.e. 180$ for changing one outside faucet! This product does away with dangerous soldering and the difficulties of compression connections - and with the greedy plumbers.

I can see why plumbers would hate it: Works too good, too easy to install - spoils the infinite greed of the plumber brotherhood.

Serves them right!

H
You remember that statement when your sewer is stopped up at one of you properties and your standing in 2ins of sewer water..... How greedy are we now....

how do sharkbites have anything to do with a sewer stopping up??

Mikeyvon
It doesnt, my point was he was saying "I can see why plumbers would hate it: Works too good, too easy to install - spoils the infinite greed of the plumber brotherhood.

Serves them right!"

I made an example of something that isnt so "easy to fix" sometimes. I use sharkbites on a regular basis, I dont hate them they are a usefull fix when you need it. Plumbing is my life and I never take to kindly to someone stereotyping plumbers.

I recently purchased a lake place and it has a manufactured home on top of a block basement. I am adding a bathroom in the basement with a vanity and shower that need a hot water supply. My water heater is on the main floor and they used pex tubing. I want to use sharkbite connector to add copper tubing downstairs. My question has to do with reusing the the pex ends and replacing the 90' 3/4" connector with sharkbite T connector. How do you go about safely removing the compression rings without damaging the pex tubing ends so I can reuse and connect into the sharkbite. I was hoping I could reuse the existing pex tubing without adding more.

Regarding the "California warning": That's because "lead free brass" is defined by the Feds as "less than 8% lead". California requires that warning on anything with more than 0% lead, so most brass plumbing fittings require that label.

Watts makes a line of Sharkbite-style connectors entirely in plastic.. they seem to be the only zero-lead ones out there.

I'm a do-it-yourself homeowner and have used Sharkbite connectors with copper, cpvc, and pex with no problems. It's worth the cost for easy, quick, and reliable connections.

I'm adding a new laundry room and plan on purchasing Sharkbite connectors and valves for use with pex.

I recommend them!

Thought I would pass along what we did find out where they are not good to use. We are remodeling bath/shower tile and replacing the facuet. They won't work on the tub fill spout. These connectors move and spin so you would not be able to ever change the spout. Besides the spout would be moving around anyways. Have to do it the old way. We do have copper pipes.

We also have copper and did the same thing with a bath using Sharkbite. You need to plan out your plumbing and also visit Sharkbite's web site to see ALL of the connectors they offer. In our case the spout was below the single hand control so we used a Male straight down to a Female Elbow and a threaded pipe out to the spout. No turning when installing or removing spout. If you use a regular elbow the spout will turn. The female elbow was not available at our Home Depot. Hence the web site reference.

I just converted our 1000 sq ft ranch to a 3000 sq ft colonial; from a 1 bath to a 2.5 bath PLUS laundry room. I removed almost all of the old copper since everything was getting moved. The original house also had/has cast iron baseboard heat (hot water). Some of those baseboard heaters had to come out as well. Where those heaters were removed, the water lines are capped off with 3/4" SharkBite caps. Where a whole section of the baseboard heat supply line had to be removed, I re-routed it with PEX, making both connections to the original with SharkBites.
The original 3/4" copper supply line from the well was cut at the first "branch" and coupled to 3/4" PEX with a Sharkbite. The SharkBites are available in a quick-connect to MPT or FPT format as well. Here I used them to connect to both of my on-demand water heaters, radiant floor manifold system, and shower diverters. For our Master Bath shower, with all the body sprays, handheld shower, overhead shower head, and thermo-valve, they are all connected the same way. It's soooo much easier to run PEX where you want it in such spaces, and connect with the appropriate SharkBite ESPECIALLY when sweating too close to any of these expensive valves you risk damaging them. I also used their "drop-ear" elbows for shower heads, outside faucets, and our pot-filler by the stove.
Another plus is that you have some "play". Even AFTER you've mad your SharkBite connection, you can still "twist" the connector. So your angles can be off slightly, and all is fine.
I will also tell you this: as a precaution, ALL of the connections were tested under water pressure BEFORE the drywall, durarock, tile, whatever was put up.
The one drawback I ran across is that no one in this area stocks any in the 3/8" size--those I had to order.
In case you haven't figured it out-I'm NOT a plumber. But I did have a plumber here to help me do my drain/vent work, and he was impressed with all my supply work. And BTW--not a single problem.

I used Sharkbite fittings and CPVC to rapair an exposed line to an outside faucet in the garage last summer - copper to CPVC - and it has been totaly leak proof.
I'm just starting a master bath remodel, and want to move the wet-wall of my shower to the opposite side so I can do a pony wall and open up the "box". I'd like to consider the Sharkbite again for this job, but have a few quesitons for the forum.
1. I didn't look at PEX when I did the garage repair as I wanted the rigid CPVC. Is PEX the flexible tubing I saw at HD when I got the other stuff?
2. What are the pros/cons of PEX over CPVC? I don't see much mentione in this thread on the use of CPVC, but I found it extremely easy to work with - like repairing my sprinkler lines without the messy glue. My shower job will of course be hot/cold supply in a concealed location.
3. At one point, to bring the pipes around to the other wall, I'll have to cross a 2" black plastic sewer vent pipe inside the wall. Any issues with the two crossing each other? I'll probably wrap the plumbing or vent with a rubber sleeve to eliminate any chance of vibration noises.
Thanks in advance - I'm glad I found this forum.
PanteraMike

The SharkBite can save you a fortune in emergency plumbing bills in the right situation. The SharkBite fitting will cost like anything else, knowing when, where, and how to use a SharkBite is critical.

Here is a link that might be useful: CompressionConnector.com - compression connector, connectors, connector, cable tools, cable crimper, cable, cable connector, cable connectors

My only concern is that the 1/2" ball-valve tends to rotate around the pipe when the on-off lever is operated...

They won't work on the tub fill spout. These connectors move and spin so you would not be able to ever change the spout. Besides the spout would be moving around anyways...

=:O I don't care who you are, THAT is some screamingly funny commentary on the mechanical "robustness and suitability" of these allegedly approved fittings! LMAO!!

We had a plumber come out to give an estimate to fix a leaky toilette and a leak in a basement ceiling. He wanted $1,100 to fix two leaks with the toilette being about $400. I did get some lower offers for about $300 to $400, but even at that, I have several more things to fix and at that rate it was going to be pretty costly. And I've read some other people's here and their prices are pretty high. Like $180 for ONE outdoor faucet.

Before trying shark bite, or gator bites, I taught my self to weld pipes with a torch and solder etc. I did a couple and was pretty proud of it and saved like $400 for a water heater pipe repair. The reason I didn't try the shark bite at that point is that I couldn't find them near by so tried using the torch that time a year back or so.

But now this week I noticed shark and gator bites at Lowes and Home Depot and decided to try them out. I had to go to both stores since some parts were sold out.

I used it to replace the outdoor faucet with a washerless, ball faucet in the front of the house And was amazed. IT WORKED! And even though I knew how to use a torch, felt like it was easier. Besides I would have had to put something flame retardant in the basement to weld because there are wooden beams there. Or at least spray with water. But now I didn't even have to worry about it. I only had to cut the pipe in the basement, and use a gator bite coupling and push the two pipes together. Then I did the same for the faucet by screwing it onto a shark bite part and then pushing it onto the pipe. It was easy. I was worried about it leaking, but I've checked and no leaks. Not even a drip. Nothing. It sealed perfectly.

Now tomorrow, I am going to replace the other out door faucet on the back of the house. No more miserable, leaking 20 year old faucet. And now I have 3 or 4 more repairs I've been putting off all lined up. Over all, I like Shark Bites. You can also get Gator Bites at Lowes or other places.

I think we may need a wood stake though the heart to kill this thread... it will not die.

RE: Alert regarding Lowes' GatorBites. I have used Shark Bites and the Watts version of same -- sold by Lowes. Lowes version are brass, very heavy duty, with white plastic ends. Lowes also has a product called GatorBites. They are shiny copper and once a push connection is made you cannot release like the Shark and Watts versions. I have had no problems whatsoever with SB and Watts. I trust them to the point of putting behind walls. That said, GatorBites are a class action law suit coming soon (in my opinion). I had to take apart 12 t connects because during air test at 60lbs every 3rd t leaked. Totally unacceptable. Today I went to lowes and noticed all copper GatorBites had been pulled off shelves. In my opinon this is a very unreliable product. With SB and Watts, you follow directions and you can rest ez. I would not be able to sleep if I had them in my house or used on a job. Also noticed that if you search for GatorBites on lowes web site, the product shown is the Watts heavy duty push fit connect that can be released. FYI the GatorBites that should be pulled from the market (in my opinion) are sold in bags containing 3 each for about 21.00. If you see them RUN AWAY. I am going to see the store manager at lowes and let know of issues. I know it is hard to believe, but I am not going to ask for my money back although it would be nice--I can eat the 60 bucks I spent. My concern is some poor person afraid to sweat a joint uses these and causes a ceiling collapse. Soldering is ez and fun, and cheap too! Shark Bites and Watts Rock!!

Can pex be bent at the fitting to make a turn up to another fitting? I noticed that when I did that the fitting collar wasn't 'square' in the fitting and tended to push to the side away from the bend

When purchasing pipe fittings, be sure to note that a fitting can have two different connector types. One end of the fitting might be male threaded, the other female threaded. In the case of plastic fittings, one end might be male slip while the other end is threaded. Pipe fittings might also have matching ends -- a variance to accommodate any requirement.

Here is a link that might be useful: BES

Be VERY wary of Sharkbites. I have had four of them fail catastrophically. They literally blew apart at the pressed seams. NEVER install them inside a wall or attic or anywhere that a failure can result in property damage. Though I've used hundreds of them over several years and "only" had four total failures of them, it only takes one failure in the wrong location to cause tens of thousands of dollars or more in damages. These kinds of catastrophic failures of Sharkbites are unacceptable, period!

I know nothing about plumbing, and was forced to replace many connections in a 30 year old RV with extremely limited access. The area where my water pump is mounted is about 6 x 4 inches, and not large enough to fit two hands inside for repairs.

I had tried every fitting and connection system in Home Depot, and only used SharkBite last because it IS expensive, and I'm unemployed, living well below the poverty level. I have a fractured vertebra in my back, along with 4 ruptured discs, so I can't spend a lot of time on my hands and knees crawling around, dealing with repair issues that I should have the luxury of paying someone else to do for me.

SharkBite saved me not only a ton of time, but also saved me literal physical pain and agony I would incur (and had, previously) by using anything else. I was able to do all my necessary repairs one-handed, and am absolutely, positively 100% satisified with all of their products I've used so far!

Floor-man by trade I had a stroke which caused me to retire on disability so i didn't have the money to pay for plummer so with little use of left hand and a good right hand i had to replace copper pipes in faucet and shower and i'm not good with soldering and had to cut drywall on opposite side of shower because it's one piece shower/tub I used shark-bite on all copper 1/2" tubing and it was so simple i could not believe it . That was over year and a half ago. Since then I used shark-bite 1/4 turn shutoff valves behind 2 toilets and worked great. I feel I can do something again since stroke and save big time expense when social security pay hardly pays for food now days. I like DIY and thank the people who invented Shark-Bite.