Hardness about 20 gpg. A correctly sized and set up softener will do nicely.

I've done some digging around and I'm looking at getting a 48000 grain or 1.5 cuft softener with either of the following valves 5600sxt, 2510sxt or 2510. Having said that I have a few more questions.

Can anyone give a recommendation on which valve would be best and why?

Also I've seen people mention top baskets and gravel beds. Would I need either in my case?

I also have a 1" line coming in before it splits to a 3/4" to the HW tank and 3/4" to the cold manifold. The fleck valves I'm looking at are all 3/4" will that be alright?

Lastly, should I bother upgrading to a fine mesh resin?

Was the "Magnesium 4.89 mg/l " magnesium or manganese?

Along with the water test results we need to know # of people, # of bathrooms, any high water use appliances like a Jacuzzi?

Then we can correctly size the softener.

Both the 2510SXT and 5600SXT are 3/4" valves which you can install on a 1" supply. Since you have a 1" supply why not consider a Fleck 7000SXT.

A top basket is a good idea and has no downside. Reputable sellers include them at no extra charge.

Gravel underbed is another good idea with no downside as it reduces pressure loss and should be included at no extra charge.

Fine mesh resin will gain you nothing in your circumstances.

justalurker. Thanks for your response. It was magnesium.

Here are the other details:
- 3 people (2 adults, 1 infant)
- 2 baths currently, will be 3 once basement is finished
- No jacuzzi, but 1 standard 5ft air jet tub that gets used less than once a month currently
- Both showers are just the standard head and no additional jets
- new energystar LG dishwasher
- standard top load clothes washer

Do you think a 48,000 grain unit will suffice? Any preference on which valve I should concentrate on?

1.5 cubes should be right on the money. Set it up at 30000 capacity using 9 lbs of salt and it should regenerate once a week. Set the calendar override for 8 days.

The 5600SXT is a tried and proven valve and simple to work on. The 2510SXT is a heavier duty valve with as good a reputation. Both are 3/4"

Since you have a 1" service consider the 7000SXT.

They all program the same.

Make sure you get a top basket and gravel underbed regardless of what the salesperson says.

If you choose the 5600 or 2510 I prefer the Noryl bypass to the SS one. The Fleck 7000SXT comes with it's own Noryl bypass. I also like to plumb in a three ball valve bypass at the softener in case the Fleck bypass requires service you'll still have water to the house while you get it repaired. Costs little and if you spring a leak... priceless.

Thanks for the help justalurker. I've been looking at prices on OPWC and I was surprised to see the 7000sxt is the same price as the 5600sxt plus as you mentioned the 7000 comes with its own bypass where it is an option for the 5600.

Thanks for suggesting I look at the 7000. My only concern now is its long term reliability compared to the more tried 5600 and 2510. There isn't as much online about the 7000 except for a retired internet Clack dealer who talks poorly of the 7000.

justalurker have you had much experience with the 7000SXT yourself?

That "retired internet Clack dealer" talked poorly about everything and anything he didn't sell. It's a poor sales tactic and that tactic might be part of the reason he is retired.

The 5600SXT, 2510SXT, and the 7000SXT have the same electronics, the same warranty, and the same manufacturer.

The fact there isn't as much online about the 7000 might be because they work and few are complaining?

justalurker. I took your advise and ordered a 1.5cuft 7000SXT unit with all the standard options and added gravel to the order for the underbed.

Do you know if OPWC sends a good set of instructions, have a 3rd party web link to some, or have some yourself?

Any tricks of the trade to make set up easier once it arrives?

"Any tricks of the trade to make set up easier..."

Food grade silicon grease on the o-rings. Absolutely NO petroleum jelly, Vaseline, or the like.

Order extra H clips for the bypass and connectors in case you break one. Spares are always good to have.

"Do you know if OPWC sends a good set of instructions"

That info is right there on the OPWC web site.

Here's the OPWC installation guide...
http://www.ohiopurewaterco.com/shop/files/7000%20Complete.pdf

Here's the Fleck 7000SXT service manual...
http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/files/7000SXTServiceManual.pdf

Set the programming...
30000 capacity
9 lbs of salt
calendar override for 8 days
SF (reserve) 20%

If you're not sure how to program... ask before you set it wrong.

justalurker. I finally got around to getting my softener installed. Can you go over the settings I should have for the unit? The BLFC is 0.125 and there was nothing written next to the DLFC. Its a 48000 grain unit as discussed above.

Thanks for your help yet again...

Set the programming...
C = 30000 or 30.0x1000 (capacity)
H = 20 (gpg hardness)
DO = 8 (day override)
BF = 24 (minutes)
SF = 20 % reserve)

Read the manual to make sure you COMPLETELY understand before diving in to set anything. If you don't, then call OPWC and have them walk you through the menu.

If you call them they will tell you these setting are wrong... the settings I have provided are more efficient then what the sellers set the softeners at. Just tell them to walk you through getting MY settings in the menu and thank them.

Thanks justalurker. Set it up with those settings. Manually did a minute or so of each regen cycle to check for leaks and its been working good for 4 days so far. We started to notice a different in the hot water after a couple days. Now I'm just waiting for the first scheduled regen and hope things continue to go well! It has quite the squeal when its starts draining thats for sure!

"It has quite the squeal when its starts draining thats for sure"

Squeal just when it starts draining or for the duration of the regeneration?

Is the drain line PE (polyethylene) and not soft tubing that can collapse or kink?

Does the drain line have an air gap at the drain?

Just when it starts up. Once going it tones down. With you mentioning the kink it could be the tubing as it is the softer tubing but there is no kinks.

Get rid of the soft vinyl tubing... it will cause you problems.

Buy the stiffer milky white PE (polyethylene) tubing and make sure you air gap it at the drain.

FWIW - I had trouble finding 1/2 ID PE tubing - I was surprised that neither of the big boxes by me had it. I ordered it from Amazon. I'm sure plumbing supply houses have it - just not convenient.