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brass nipple lengths

Posted by homebound (My Page) on
Tue, Jun 26, 12 at 8:29

On a current tile job I stalled a separate drop elbow for a handheld shower. The fixture requires a properly-sized 1/2" threaded nipple for the base to rest snugly against the tile wall. As it happens, the tile was floated out a bit, so a 3" nipple is too short, but a 3 1/2" will probably be too long. Is there a simple solution to this before I open it from the wall behind it to make an adjustment to the elbow? Thanks much.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: brass nipple lengths

Learn how to thread pipe.

There should be some play room in the fixture.


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RE: brass nipple lengths

You may get by with trimming the end(s) of the longer brass nipple with a hacksaw to make it shorter. It will depend on the taper of the threads. It's worth a try before you open the wall.


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RE: brass nipple lengths

Quote"You may get by with trimming the end(s) of the longer brass nipple with a hacksaw to make it shorter. It will depend on the taper of the threads. It's worth a try before you open the wall."

WRONG........All threads are the same and when a threaded joint is made up correctly there should be no more than one thread visible. If you have more than one thread visible you simply have not tightened the joint enough yet.

Cutting the tip off would weaken the joint, but it would not make any difference on the overall length of the joint.

The fixture should have a trim escutcheon that will allow a small ajustment in the final fit.


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RE: brass nipple lengths

LP, you must have arms of steel. Using two wrenches (typically one 12" and one 10"), I can't tighten that tight. Usually 2-3 threads left when done, and it's awful tight.

As for the trim escutcheon, no dice on this one. The fixture base is one piece with a 1/2" threaded female end that's flush with the base.


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RE: brass nipple lengths

Hi, I have used this , maybe it will work for you. Build your own nipple 2 male copper adapters and a correct length of copper pipe.
Good luck Woodbutcher


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RE: brass nipple lengths

A 10" & a 12" wrench? Those are ok of working 1/4" pipe but for 1/2" you need a 14" & a 16".....I prefer a 16" & an 18", much less work.


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RE: brass nipple lengths

"The fixture base is one piece with a 1/2" threaded female end that's flush with the base."

Must be Chicom engineered.


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RE: brass nipple lengths

Don't know where it was engineered, but the brand is Rohl. Italian & premium priced.

I think it's Grohe that does the same for some shower heads. Major PITA to install since there's no room for error.

On a separate note, I once installed a Grohe shower head that I vaguely recall requiring a 17mm hex wrench (or maybe it was 21mm?) to inset/tighten some kind of special nipple into the drop ear (and get it to the precise depth). Try finding a 17mm hex wrench somewhere/anywhere. Insane.


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RE: brass nipple lengths

"brand is Rohl. Italian & premium priced. "

Sounds more like a poorly conceived rip off.

It appears to have a from over function problem.

"17mm hex wrench"

Not hard at all.
Even Sears has them.

I am sure my set of 1/2 inch drive adapters has one also.


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RE: brass nipple lengths

Well, maybe it was a size other than 17mm because I certainly couldn't find whatever it was and I was searching everywhere. Sears did not have it at the time (they had larger and smaller than whatever size it was). Neither did any auto parts stores, nor any plumbing suppliers, etc. (And "no" to HD, of course.)


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correction - 14mm

Turns out it was a 14mm hex that was impossible to find.

Brick, where I can get 14mm locally (NoVa)? It was impossible.


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RE: brass nipple lengths

Auto parts store.

It should be easy to find a 1/2 inch drive 14 mm hex adapter.


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RE: brass nipple lengths

Yeah... this can be a real pain.... I need the brass nipples in 1/4" increments. Lately though I've been using a little different method depending on which one will work better. If the longer nipple is going to leave you too far off, use a little extra teflon and dope on the shorter one and send it home. If the longer one will make it but you're going to have to muscle it in there, this means you're going to risk damaging your tile or stone trying to get that last 1/4 turn or so- Especially since most of the time they leave a gasket with an area for silicone caulk beneath and that thing ends up sliding out of place. So, what I began doing a little while back was for the truly tight ones, use some painters tape to hold that gasket in place while sending that thing home with whatever safe form of wrench or screwdriver your able to insert in the supply ell. (taping across the entire backside of the gasket wrapping around the ell.) This gasket now acts more like a friction gasket keeping your brass from scratching the surface while putting some real muscle in to get it where you want it. 'But Steve! The gasket is to put silicone beneath and makes everything water tight!!!' More times than not that damn thing slides out with that silicone and sticks out by the time you get it cranked in to place- you end up cutting it and caulking around the outside anyway. This way, it serves in a different manner, you trim the tape back with a sharp razor until it can't be seen, and silicone caulk around the outside making the tape a non issue, and a benefit if you ever have to pull it out since it will still be there to keep you from scratching the surface again. Just my approach. Like I tell all my apprentices/helpers- see how I do it and every other mechanic at this company, then you figure out what works best for you.


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