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Sat, May 29, 10 at 14:34
| Just bought a new toilet to replace the 22 year old crapper that was just that! The supply line is almost right behind the flange and will have to be moved a couple of inches left. Since the flange is also cracked and I haven't the time, I am calling the pro to repair. Is this normally done by tearing a small piece of sheetrock to modify in wall or done from below...Basement with drop ceiling. Also, the ding dong installer had the supply valve coming out of the baseboard near the floor. I don't think this is normally done...is it? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| " supply valve coming out of the baseboard near the floor" Actually, that is just fine. It is often far easier than cutting through a tile floor, especially a mud bed job that is many inches thick. |
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- Posted by lazypup (lazypup@yahoo.com) on Sun, May 30, 10 at 0:11
| In is now an unwritten industry standard to place the water closet supply 6" left of center and 12" above the finished floor, but there is no code requirement to do it that way. It could come out through the baseboard as you have it, or it could even come straight up through the floor. With some extremely rare exceptions there is nearly always 4" or 5" of clearance from the back of the water closet base to the wall so there really should be no reason compelling you to move your valve. |
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| Thanks for the thoughts guys. There is not enough clearance with the old valve in place. But I think it is as simple as trimming the line and putting in a right angle and installing a new valve a couple of inches to the left. I hope the flange can be repaired with a kit...the base of the flange is sticking up above the floor about 1/4" and I hope this is not too high. I know that shimming the toilet and flange is an option but I would prefer it flat on the floor. Heads up to all..Don't ever buy a Briggs..22 years of anguish. |
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| "There is not enough clearance with the old valve in place." Sounds like an oversize valve. Fixture stop valves are not that large. |
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| The "plumber" was a slob. Doubt he's still around. If it didn't leak it was considereded "good work". Take the broken flanges and incorect heights on the flanges. The old valve sticks out about 4-5 inches from the baseboard. Just sloppy work but I'm sure easily corrected. |
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| Just a follow-up. The flange was replaced. Access was easy enough through the basement. The old supply line was cut, stuffed back in the wall/baseboard and expoxyed over. The new line was brought through the floor using a PEX adapter off the original line. The job was easy enough because the plumbers were, well plumbers! Sometime it is just best to pay for knowledge. Thank for input guys. |
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