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| I'm trying to replace the hoses on my clothes washer - just moved to this place and noticed that one of the hoses leaks when I turn on the water (it was off when I first moved in). It leaks where the hose connects to the water supply faucet (not where it connects directly to the washer). However, I CANNOT remove the old hoses. I had my boyfriend try with channel locks, and they just didn't budge. It almost looks like the hoses are melded on to the spigots. Is there a way to loosen the old hoses? Lubricant? Or do I just need to call a plumber? Any help appreciated! |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| WD-40 and wait an hour. |
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| Call a plumber. More than likely you have dissimilar materials and electrolysis has joined the two. Had a similar problem last year with an outside sill cock. I had put on a cheapo splitter the previous year. The wrenches kept getting bigger until I used a 5' pipe on a pipe wrench. WD-40 is water soluble |
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- Posted by justalurker (My Page) on Wed, May 19, 10 at 13:26
| WD40 = NO PB Blaster = YES |
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| Jonnyp .......Yes, it is water soluble....that's the idea...ability to penetrate in water-infused environments. Has always worked for me. Perhaps it won't in this situation. I don't know, and neither do you. However, easy/cheap beginning and -- if it works -- considerable saving compared to plumber-time. if justalurker says PB Blaster is the ticket, I'd go with that instead. |
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- Posted by justalurker (My Page) on Wed, May 19, 10 at 16:51
| PB Blaster has enzymes in it that eat corrosion. It has always worked way better than I expected it to. WD40's claim to fame is it's water displacement abilities. Get it? WD? |
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- Posted by tofu_flavored (My Page) on Wed, May 19, 10 at 21:38
| PB Blaster might be the way to go if it eats corrosion. I tried a "penetrating oil" and it didn't do anything. ANother part of the problem is there is nothing to grab onto with the pliers - the nozzles (or whatever you want to call them) are worn smooth, like someone tried to remove them before and wore down the tread... |
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| Can you get the spigots off? If so, replace with 1/4 turn ball valves. If not, hacksaw across the top of the nozzles being careful not to get too deep into the threads of the faucet. Getting most of the way thru you should be able to pop the rest off. |
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- Posted by justalurker (My Page) on Wed, May 19, 10 at 22:18
| Depending on your skill level... a Dremel with cutting wheel will cut a slit down the side of the female coupling on the hose. After the cut, split the coupling and it will fall off. If that's over your head call a plumber cause if you mess up the valves you WILL call a plumber. |
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| Nice how they come back and tell you what happened, isn't it? |
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- Posted by tofu_flavored (My Page) on Sun, May 23, 10 at 22:08
| Here's what happened: I tried lots of liquid wrench, which didn't do anything. Also tried a propane torch, which didn't do anything. So mow I think I'll just call the plumber. I'll let everyone know how it's resolved. Thanks for all suggestions! |
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| Wait! Why not change the valves too? If they were accessible, I would. |
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| In all of my excitement I didn't see the previous suggestion to change the valves. |
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| Thanks for coming back. Sorry for your troubles. Always advise cheap/easy attempt first. Sorry didn't work. Your plumber has handled this countless times before. Quick/easy for him plus a little more expense for you. When he's done, suggest floodcheck hoses for your connection. Link below. Get the gooseneck connectors, too. |
Here is a link that might be useful: My recommended washer hoses.
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| "I'll let everyone know how it's resolved." Most likely with more muscle and/or a larger pipe wrench. The thin metal of hose connections can be a problem with a pipe wrench though. It compresses against the threads as the force is increased trying to unscrew the fitting. A regular steel pipe is strong enough to not deform. |
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- Posted by tofu_flavored (My Page) on Mon, May 24, 10 at 10:08
| I think that's already happened- looks like the person who lived here before did that. It really looks like the hoses are melted into the faucets- there are no "edges" to grab hold of anywhere- it's all smooth. |
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| "there are no "edges" to grab hold of anywhere- it's all smooth." That is why the wrenches have teeth on them. Used correctly they will bight in to the metal itself. It can take a lot more force than you would think sometimes. |
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| Squeeze too hard with good teeth and the connector can deform and you will have actually compressed the threads on the valve. |
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| "Squeeze too hard with good teeth..." Thisis a problem with thin fittings designed for hand toghtening, but having to squaeeze that hard also means the teeth on thte wrench are probably no longer good but are dull. There is a reason they are replaceable on good plumbers wrenches, and on slip-joint (pump) pliers you either sharpen them or get a new pair. |
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- Posted by tofu_flavored (My Page) on Wed, May 26, 10 at 16:16
| Here's the outcome, $150 later! I had a plumber over. He managed to remove one hose from the faucet using a LOT of strength (and he turned the water on and banged the faucet to loosen things). The other faucet - well, the hose wouldn't come off and he had to replace the whole bib/faucet thing. Now I can do laundry. :) Thanks again for all the suggestions! |
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| The important thing is causing the faucets to know that you WILL dominate them in the end! Can't have uppity faucets and hoses in your house. Glad the problem's solved. $150 seems reasonable to me from your description. |
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| Put some 'Never Seize' on the new faucet to prevent it form corroding in place. It works on toilet bolts also. |
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