I always use pipe dope and teflon tape.

I would not use a shark-bite fitting inside a wall. Also - any movement of the silcock will pull on the shark-bite connection.

I'd solder in a new elbow.

I've never seen a dripping connection heal itself.

Dump the shark bites and do it right... solder it up.

If you can't solder then hire someone to do it.

Thank you Geoffrey_B and justalurker,
I see we fixed one problem but created another one. We had no clue the GatorBites can't be used inside a wall. What are they sold for? Pipes, that aren't subject to any physical pressure or movement?

" The bursting was not due our neglect. "

Yes it was.

You failed to turn off the water supply to the sill-cock.

There is a valve for that in the house.

"I always use pipe dope and teflon tape."

One or the other, not both.

Brickeyee,
Before you will start accusing people of things they didn't do, make sure they can actually fail to do so.
We have no option to turn off a valve while there is no shut off valve, we would have to shut off the main water supply to the whole house. As I mentioned; we cut out a drywall and found out what is happening. The angle was wrong, the sillcock couldn't drain out and we fixed that. We didn't know a valve inside the house has to be present as it doesn't exist. We are a first time house owners and can't know everything. Searching internet didnâÂÂt help much while many installation/repair details are omitted. Funny thing we had the sillcock replaced already 3 times and nobody pointed anything out to us!

We are learning how to fix stuff as it needs to be replaced. Obviously having it done by someone else doesnâÂÂt mean they will do it correctly. That is also why we are fixing things by our selfâÂÂs now. We did not have a house inspection when we bought the house.

Thanks for pointing it out though, we will have it installed and the whole thing fixed. Any other things that we need to watch for? We will be âÂÂsupervisingâ the fix.

If it is a frostproof, you do not need a separate shutoff valve, but it's nice to have for those times when you have to work on it or replace it. If it is NOT a frostproof , you must have a shutoff and a drain.

In either case, never leave a hose attached during freezing weather.

Thank you aliceinwonderland_id, all the sillcocks we had and we have now are frostproof. We will get the shut off valve installed anyway. We had to turn off the main water valve to work on it; it was annoying...

If all the other sillcocks you have are frostproof why not replace this last regular one with a frostproof?

It may not always be true, but usually outside sillcocks have an internal shutoff valve. It may not be located near the faucet, however. In my case, the shutoff for the north side faucet is on the south side near the main shutoff.

The sillcock we installed is frostproof, it is this one:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_63649-34146-M72AS+4_0__?productId=3364756&PID=1319015&cm_mmc=AFF_CJ-_-eBay+Commerce+Network+%28formerly+Shopping.com%29-_-1189274-_-11259695#BVRRWidgetID

We should be able to reuse it, correct? Thanks

Sorry no help but have been laughing for a few minutes. Reading the thread I'm asking myself, what's a sillcock?

Then I see a picture of a hose bib.

Two countries separated by a common language.

Actually might be able to help, always, always provide a shut off for a sillcock, frost protected or not. Up here I have had to replace many split self draining exterior hose bibs because they failed to drain.

Use Teflon tape only on potable water supply fitting, or pipe dope maybe, I never would, military grease on non potable water industrial cooling supplies, but never both. Chemical in pipe dope breaks down the Teflon that will actually lead to a leak. If it doesn't you have been lucky.

"We have no option to turn off a valve while there is no shut off valve,"

Then you have a lousy installation and your maintenance failure is not having the cut off valve installed.

Add a ball valve inside the house and shut it off in freezing weather, ten open the outside valve to allow it to drain completely.
The line should also be pitched downwad slightly to ensure drainage.

Little foam covers are a frozen line waiting to happen in all but the shortest and warmest of cold snaps (barely 32F for a few hours).

They are relying on heat leakage trough the house wall that can then be trapped to keep the valve above 32 F.
A dubious idea in all but the warmest places.

OPEN the outside valve so the short length of line drains.

The newer plastic 'frost proof' valves are not nearly as good as the old metal ones.

Arrowhead still makes the good ones.

They should be installed using threads on the inside joint to the valve.

This allows the valve body to be unscrewed at a later time with minimal fuss and no soldering near the inside of an exterior wall.

Even these valves must be pitched properly to drain with nothing connected in freezing weather that could hold water in the valve body.

The 465-02 series is still about the best choice.

A street el to go from copper pipe to female IPT is used.

I typically use a short piece of type L untempered cooper tubing between the (still) ball valve on the inside and the street el to allow the frost free adequate downward pitch for easy draining.
About 6 inches of type L untempered will allow the slight bend you need for slope on the frost free.

Here is a link that might be useful: Arrowhead valves