The last connection is with a flex line that are used for stove, dryer and fireplace connections, in comes in varies sizes and widths.each end comes with either a female or male connection after they are installed the flex line is put in between them.

The last connection may be made with a flex line if flex lines are permitted in your jurisdiction..In my jurisdiction it must be pipe all the way to the appliance.

First, you must start at the source (meter end) and work towards the load.

You must have a drip stub on the meter end and generally another is required at the load end.

You must have a readily accessible shutoff at the fixture and you must have a union between the shutoff and the fixture.

"The last connection may be made with a flex line if flex lines are permitted in your jurisdiction."

Many jurisdictions have moved forward enough to allow the use of CSST for entire runs.

Other jurisdictions pride themselves on keeping costs as high as possible.

We could run CSST here for the entire length. However it's on the outside of the house so a giant yellow run would be pretty annoying to look at right?

I understand how to work from the meter out to the load, but I wanted to do the entire new black iron run, except for that last tiny bit to the meter, then I could pressure test the new run before connecting it in. Is this silly or proper?

Do you ever see people using CSST to connect a meter to a run of black iron? Wouldn't that be appropriate here? I built the entire new run, pressure test it and then use a short piece of CSST to connect them?

Or should the last bit be done with a right/left type fitting?

I am not understanding yet what the professionals choice would be here, just to build out from the meter to the load and check for leaks with soapy water?

Start at the meter and work towards the load. If you use the correct pipe dope and tighten the pipe joints correctly there is very little chance of a leak, but the operative word there is "Correctly" tighten the joints. To tighten a threaded pipe joint you need two pipe wrenches one to hold the fixed end steady while the second wrench turns the pipe, and when the joint is tight there should be no more than 1-1/2 threads visible.

If the meter also contains a regulator, the typical line pressures for gas are very low (often less than 2 PSI).

A tight joint is not all that hard to obtain.

While there are numerous complicated ways to measure gas pressure, it is often so low that a bucket of water is adequate.

You put a tube into the water until the gas stops flowing from the open end, then just measure how many inches of water was needed to stop the flow.

Well here is what I ended up doing. I discovered the gas meter was way out of plumb when I tried first to just shoot a pipe straight up four feet. The pipe was leaning away from the house a lot.

So I took that out and used a 1"x1"x1/2"tee to start instead, this let me keep the next line plumb to the house.

See any dorky mistakes?

http://www.scopenews.com/gasp1.jpg
http://www.scopenews.com/gasp2.jpg

Thanks!
Mike in Alaska

Here is a link that might be useful:

and here is where it enters the house

Here is a link that might be useful:

No drip stubs. You need to redo it. I'm thinking if you just swap the T with the elbow at the meter end and on the load end, that would be enough to be able add the drip stub without having to buy more than just a 3" nipple and caps for the stub, but I don't do this all day long for money like Lazypup does.

It doesn't need a drip stub at the meter and he has one where it enters the bldg..so its fine.

So it looks OK? a professional wouldn't show up and laugh?

I questioned the extra fitting at the meter end, but thought the pipe looked better going plumb as soon as possible, instead of saving a turn.

Can I spraypaint it to match the house? Is OK to spray paint over where the pipes enter the fittings?