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rpgelber

Connection for copper closet bend to new toilet flange?

Happy Customer
14 years ago

Hi, I'm a plumbing novice learning the hard way. I'm remodeling a bath and the new floor will not be as high as old mortar bed, so I need to lower the toilet flange. The existing plumbing appears to be 3" copper pipe with cast (copper, brass?) closet bend. Tried to heat the flange to remove it and best I was able to do is remove the (3-4") piece of vertical copper pipe at the solder joint where it comes up from the bend along with the flange still attached to it. What is best technique for replacing the vertical piece and the flange to connect with the existing (cast copper or brass) closet bend?

Thanks!

Comments (6)

  • jamesbodell
    14 years ago

    Convert to PVC. much easier (and cheaper) to work with. use a nylon sleeve to convert from 3" copper to 3" PVC.

  • jamesbodell
    14 years ago

    Correction: Firmco coupling, not "nylon sleeve". Any good hardware store will have what you need.

  • lazypup
    14 years ago

    DANGER..Cut the copper pipe. DO NOT even attempt to disconnect copper DWV joints with a torch. Sewer gas is highly flammable and in high concentration it can be explosive.

  • Happy Customer
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Thank you for your considered and thoughtful responses! As far as explosive sewer gas, appreciate the warning but, as stated, already torched the vertical "tailpiece" and removed it.

    With respect to fernco fittings, I looked at these and found eiher a no-hub "sleeve" type connection or a "donut" which fits inside existing pipe. Doesn't seem the no-hub sleeve would provide the stability you would want and, at any rate, it does not fit over the coupling (hub) on the closet bend. The donut is designed for cast-iron pipe and will not fit in 3" coopper hub.

    Box-store people had no idea how to fix this as they are familiar only with cast-iron or PVC setups.

    I bought a new copper flange and was lucky enough to bump into a plumber at the supply house who gave me a few inches of 3" copper (10' of 3" is super expensive!). I resoldered this new "tailpiece" into the existing closet bend with my little propane torch (sorry again about torch and sewer gas, but too late). Hoping and praying that this joint holds up. Now I need to attach new copper flange - now you've got me worried about soldering it on.

    Hope anyone else who has to deal with refitting to copper closet bend can benefit from your comments.

  • jamesbodell
    14 years ago

    If you go to a plumbing supply house they have firmco like couplers that have a metal band around the rubber to give it added strength. They may be called "church" fittings but I may be mistaken. As for support, the toilet flange should be bolted to the floor and should not carry any weight. The toilet is bolted to the flange which is bolted to the floor (toiler is bolted to floor, too). You should not rely on the soil pipe to hold anything in place.

    As for the fitting itself, you need a 3" cast to 3" copper fitting. The PVC mimics the cast in OD. The ID is 3", but the OD are different and must be taken into account with the fitting.

    Seriously, one DIYer to another, convert to PVC, its cheaper, safer and easier to maintain. Return the brass fitting and get a PVCS one at 1/4 the cost. Plus, no soldering.

  • undun
    9 years ago

    Nothandy, I know that this thread is from 2010 and that you may not check GardenWeb now, but if you do, could you post a follow up as to what you finally did and if you were successful (I assume that you were). I am in the EXACT same boat - coupler/tailpiece came off still firmly attached to flange. Did you remove the old tailpiece by using your torch and then reuse the existing flange?

    Thank you.