I agree with what Bboy is saying in that it is easier to deal with the scale by not trying to introduce a conflict. It introduces a whole lot of different things that you have to deal with, but it can also create opportunities to do something a little more interesting as well. It just depends on how comfortable you feel about it and how willing you are to experiment, observe, assess, and change until you get something good. Most people do not really want to invest in that much experimentation. They want to plan it once and plant it once. Stevega, I'm saying that the walls build very strong unity and when you build in a little more soil and add plants it will show. The unity is based on continuity of one strong material - the rocks AND by the "containing" quaility of the walls. That will hold a composition of different forms, color, and texture a lot more than a flat garden and simple foliage. In other words, it is strong enough that takes a lot more of an attack on it to overcome that unifying element. That is a good thing if you want to use multiple forms, colors, and textures. You can do more of that and it will hold together better. I would still suggest that isolation is what is working in the mockup of the moved maple. I think Karin said that it was not the green that absorbed it. Look at the mockup that everyone seams to agree looks better and cover the lower part where the trunk is isolated in front of the wall. Where you can see only the foliage in front of the background it is absorbed and all but disappears in a green background. It is the isolation of the trunk that makes everyone see it as looking good. I use that trick all the time. Another good way to pop a J. Maple is to elevate it. It then becomes a challenge to not make it look like you tried to elevate it. You can get away with anything as long as you can do things around it to make it work. If you don't have a context, you can build a context. If you like the form of the maple, get it to show as much as you can. If you like the color, make sure you don't lose it against a bad background. J. Maples are often placed this way. I'm not saying that it is only something I do. It is done often enough that most people think J. Maples are a focal point of their own no matter what you do with it. Clearly, the original picture shows one with almost nothing around it, yet it is hardly a strong focal point. Treelover moved it over distancing it from everything which makes it more dominant. Adding low growth below it and to the left of it with a sharply contrasting color lifts it. The stone behind the trunk brings it forward. The wall in front adds more depth. All of it adds up to isolating its beauty.

You might find more help over in the vegetables forum, where growing watermelons is also on topic.

If you are referring to Houttuynia cordata 'Chameleon', it's not the slightest bit evergreen in my zone 8 climate. And considering how widespread its appearance is after a period of winter dormancy, I'm about convinced someone manually digs up and intentionally spreads this thug around. I can't believe it travels that far. I would never legitimately consider planting this in the ground without significant controls. The roots of this plant penetrate quite deeply. I'd opt for some sort of edging that would also penetrate deeper than standard lawn edging......something like metal flashing. Good luck.......I wouldn't try it :-))

I've had problems with squash beetles up here too. I just did a light dusting with Sevin when they were at their peak. Within a week or two the bees and some of the beetles returned, but the beetles never came back in significant numbers. If I were to do it all again, I'd slice up some cucumbers and put some clove oil in a cup mixed with Sevin. Clove oil is supposed to be a strong attractant for squash bugs. I'm not sure how you feel about pesticides, but keeping it separated in a cup with bait is a good way to minimize damage to other species.