Hi scotty, Firstly, I must have stumbled upon some outdated and partially wrong data, that wrongly says: Pure Blend Pro Grow (NPK: 2-1.5-4) Pure Blend Pro Bloom (NPK: 1.5-4-5) Pure Blend Pro Bloom Soil Formula (NPK: 1.5-4-5) The info I (wrongly) based on provides from here: http://www.4hydroponics.com/nutrients/pureblendpro.asp I guess this is the former formulation they have changed to "the better", combined with some mistake at the website, truth to be told. I didn't know either that Cal-Mag and Cal-Mag+ had 2-0-0 nitrogen. Cal-mag isn't Calmag as it seems. But then again you just use it about 1/4 proportionally to the nutrients, don't you? Only a minor part of that is water soluble: Nitrate Nitrogen (N).....1.94% - 0.06% Water Soluble Nitrogen (N) The really funny part is that Botanicare Cal-Mag isn't organic as it uses calcium nitrate. On top of that, EDTA chelated iron (as other chelated t.e). are the only ingredients used in hydroponic nuitrients that you actually can/must call synthetic. All other components commonly used in "inorganic nutrients" are chemically processed and transformed, but per definition not synthetic. I actually thought "Cal-Mag" was "organic" and that calcium was provided by dissolved calcium carbonate or some purely mineral based Ca! Still and although some misunderstandings that were due to inaccurate infos I did base on, 1. the N-content isn't improved wit Cal-Mag, 2. the phosphorus content in the Bloom formula is still to high for my understanding. 3. Don't know what they're thinking, actually. The feeding schedule: I don't comprehend that either. The change from week 3 to 4, from 7.5/7.5 Grow/Bloom to 20 Bloom is just a mystery to me. What could possibly have changed from week 3-4?! And just a week later increasing to 25 Bloom, what would that be good for? Very little phosphorus is contained and dissolved in most soils - and plants have adopted to this fact since the Oligocene epoch, if not earlier - LOL! Sorry, I have to give up on this...

I'll be happy if he continues to be friendly. We have a 'semi-feral' female that I started feeding when I heard her pitiful cries. I put out food, and eventually moved it closer and closer to the group pans, until she was comfortable coming to eat while we were there. She follows me around outside now, will occasionally rub my ankles and let me pet her, but doesn't want to be held, or even approached. One thing I noticed about Shadow, is that he stayed hidden almost all day, and came out only at night. He panicked if I tried to take him to any other room in the house. Our other cats snooze some during the day, but they are very active and alert all day long. Shadow's hiding might have been part of his survival instinct, after having been 'injured.' If I'd been inclined to keep him inside I think he would have become much more tame and friendly, but one of my daughters is allergic to cats.

"We are taking down an extra large square fluorescent light and replacing it with one two-bulb type flush mounted light and maybe another if need be then also adding a pendant over the sink." It will depend on the size and layout of the kitchen. One flush mount will not work as good as the fluorescent for two reasons. (1) The fluorescent puts out 6.5 times as much light. A 4' fluorescent with 4 tubes (2600 Lumens × 4 = 10400 Lumens) A two bulb flush mount w/60 watt bulbs or equivalent (800 Lumens × 2 = 1600 Lumens) (2) The surface mount fixture's light source comes from exactly 2 points that are very close together. The fluorescent light source has infinite sources of light within that 2' × 4' area which spreads the light out better, causing less noticeable shadows. With the fluorescent, the light reflecting off of all the other surfaces in the kitchen is also bouncing off at a more infinite number of angles, (compared to just from the pinpoint light source of the standard fixture) further contributing to the feeling of even light in the kitchen. . Pendant lighting that is bright enough to really contribute to the overall lighting of a room will also be glaring, since it is down closer to eye level. Pendants are fine for specific task lighting or mood lighting. Under cabinet lighting can also be a bit glaring if it is relied upon for more than half the light needed for a task. Keeping the under cabinet lighting out close to the face of the cabinet helps. Using two surface mounted luminaries on the ceiling will help spread out the light sources and help the light bouncing off of the cabinets light the room more evenly. Whether I would use fixtures with two or three bulbs depends on how big the kitchen is, how much light you are used to, and how intricate your tasks are. 800 Lumens × 6 bulbs is still only 4800 lumens, or less than half of what you currently have. You could try taking out two of the tubes and living with it for a while to help decide how many fixtures you want on the ceiling. . The difference between two 3-bulb fixtures and recessed cans over the outside edge of the countertop should not be enough to worry about as long as you have the under cabinet lighting and the pendants. There is a trade off between the two types of lighting. The recessed lights can be put right where you need them, but the light does not spread out as evenly. The surface mount in the middle of the room can produce more unwanted shadows, but the light spreads out and bounces off everything better to counteract the problem.

The more you customize the more time it takes the builder to manage the project, no one wants to believe this but it’s true. It sounds like you received “build, repeat build again” pricing, so that would rarely correspond to lots of customization. Electricians also charge more for can installs and ceiling fan pre-wires than they do for regular light pre-wire. This is likely why you can’t just interchange them. Put the pendants in, electrical is never a go back and do easy later job. Change the pendants if you want later, but at least you have the structural wiring in place.