I was stuck on trying to use the CR6 lamps with integrated trim. But since the trim is integrated the only way to use the would be to have the light 105/75 degrees (rather than 90) to the floor. I found an example where something similar was done https://www.houzz.com/discussions/are-you-using-recessed-lights-specified-dsvw-vd~58981-you-using-recessed-lights-specified-for--- but they had two matching side plus the large hanging light in the middle to balance it out. I'm not sure if my room will look right with only the one vaulted side. But the slant of the ceiling is not strong, so maybe I am over thinking this. I just found these regressed eyeball trims http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Lighting-420W-Regressed-Eyeball/dp/B000JFKUQ0 they look cleaner that the old style that sticks out which I did want to avoid. The LED BR30 lamp is not as efficient or long lasting as the CR6.

I started getting chin hairs about 7-8 months after giving birth via C-section to my last child and a tubal ligation. I was still nursing, but they showed up about the time of my first post-natal period/cycle. They have been with me ever since, and that baby will turn 23 years old in two weeks. I have tweezed and finger pulled them ever since. Now that I have "old lady" eyes, my husband actually helps me! LOL I have to wear 300+ magnifiers, a magnifying mirror and a flashlight on the offending area and a pair of mirco-edge tweezers. I usally "go after" one to 6-8 hairs every day to every three days, in the evening when I do my personal hygiene regimes. What I am noticing now is that my skin is getting tougher and the hairs sometimes are "trapped" and have a harder time breaking through. They will sometimes look like little blackheads or if they can't get out, they will become irritated and look like a little tiny pimple is starting. I have found that exfoilliating my chin area with a rough wash cloth more frequently prevents this from happening. Recently, after my period, I am noticing a significant "drying" feeling on my face and have noticed it goes hand in hand with the some of the other symptoms too. By the way, more than half of my "whiskers" are now gray.. or actually, pure white! It doesn't help at all, they still stick out, still show, still irritate and frustrate! I do have a question. Our cycles go through a follicle stimulating hormone time frame in order to "pop an egg". Do you think this is what stimulates our hair follicles to "spurt whiskers"? What about the pimples? Our oil glands are intricately involved with our hair follicles.. do you think it is the follicle stimulating hormones that "spur on" pimples to develop at our adult age? I have been known to have a pimple or two maybe three or four times a year on my face just before my period, and as soon as I finish the period, the pimple is all but gone. Anyone know about this?

couple things that glare at me: dining room needs decorative lighting, not can lights. Sconces framing windows or on the blank wall framing artwork should do the trick. I also do not have any cans in the dining area with completely open kitchen. I do not need more lights. I think it makes the ceiling look better. I would replace the light in front of the kitchen window with a decorative pendant light since it does not line up with any other cans. This way the pendant relates to all decorative lights in the space and ties the spaces together. Carefully chosen pendants can work well as a task light because the light is at a lower level and does not have to spread as much from its source. The light between the frig and DW needs to relate to the hallway. Do you have cans in the hallway? If so, the light should line up (ie center of the hallway so that looking at the ceiling from the other end of the hallway looks okay) This will determine the placement of the light on the other side of the island. I would put 2 small lights (4 inch cans) above the sink. This way, there are no shadows. If you have 8 ft ceiling, this will be fine. This will also define a separate work area and should be on a switch near the sink. Most of the working light for the range is from the hood. Make sure you have good lights on your hood. Even if you have overhead/rear lights, they tend to cancel each other out. I actually think you don't need the can in front of the range (behind you when standing in front of the range). I have much less lights than you with 9 ft ceiling and I do not need more lights when I am in front of the range. Because you have 3 different entrances to the kitchen, you should think carefully about where the switches go. This will lead to: dining pendant/chadelier dining sconces 4 cans in the kitchen (each corner), hallway determining the position of the lower left on the digram. upper left on the diagram will follow from the hallway. 1 pendant in front of the kitchen window pendants (2 to 3) for the island. 2 smaller cans for the sink

Simple solution: Ask yourself this question: Can or will the shadow actually hurt your dog? Obviously the answer is NO? Now since you are the advanced creature in this environment you need to provide comfort and guidance to help the dog learn this is not something to fear and that it will have to be addressed. Someone here mentioned "not forcing"... unfortunately that is exactly what needs to occur. But please understand what "force" really means. Any time you do something that causes your dog to react in any way it is "force". Force isn't bad it is part of a dogs learning process. Now to solve your exact problem simply get your dog under control on a leash or hold its collar. Close physical contact is going to be necessary so that the dog feels comfort from you and will allow you to move it over the shadow. Now simply comfort the dog and move it over the shadow praising as you go. Do not allow the dog to escape dealing with the issue and do not stop and focus on the issue instead simply ignore that it is there and comfort your dog physically and praise through the process. Repeat this process 10, 15, 20 times or more, although I doubt it will take more than a few times before the dog realizes there is nothing there. The predisposition of the dog as you describe is that it lacks environmental socialization. In other words it fears what it does not know and because it has not been raised with direct acknowledgement of a "leader" it has to trust the instinct of fear to address things it has yet to identify as non-threatening. The lack of an owner to assist the dog in learning to deal with certain innate emotions allows these things that seem so ridiculous to become major issues. The Acronym: F.A.S.T. is a simple way to help your dog through environmental and situational socialization. F= Fear A= Anxiety S= Stress T= Trauma These emotions are often avoided by trainers or owners thinking that by not exposing the dog to them they are helping the dog. Quite the opposite is true. These 4 things will occur in the dogs life regardless of what we do. By avoiding them in training and handling of the dog we simple complicate the situation when one or more occur in the dogs day to day life. By allowing these emotions to be exposed and dealt with during training and interaction, at which time we can guide and comfort the dog, we can actually help the dog realize how to deal with them and accept them as a natural part of life. If we avoid these things during training then when they do occur the dog must react instinctively which could mean a dog hurting itself or worse yet result in aggressive behavior such as an attack. The basic "fight or flee" instinct. Hopefully I've kept this simple enough so that you understand how actually "forcing" your dog to deal with it makes it a much better dog and you a much better owner and leader.