One of the finest pieces of marketing, ever, has been the coining of the phrase "Point-and-shoot" camera. In three simple words it promises the ease of operation of an old Kodak Brownie and that you will be able to produce National Geographic quality photographs. Few of us ever produce pictures of such high quality...but we could! The new digital cameras have capabilities beyond our imagination! Unfortunately, the operator's manuals are written by the brilliant young engineers who have grown up with the technology and the language that surrounds it. They fail to understand that many buyers of cameras received their education somewhere around the middle of the last century...many (most?) of the terms in the manual did not even exist at that time. The language discourages these readers so the manual gets lightly scanned, or ignored. When this happens, the camera is used poorly and often with the wrong settings. This mini-tutorial is my attempt at simplifying the language while suggesting the "tweaks" that I use to customize my camera. My goal is to be able to walk outside, observe the weather conditions, make one setting adjustment to compensate for the existing weather and then to "point-and-shoot" all day with reasonable expectations of high quality photos. The camera manufacturer has to produce a camera that is set up to take average pictures in almost any area but it is NOT set up to take OUTSTANDING pictures of anything. Whether the customer will be using it for architecture, landscapes, sports, portraits, or for butterflies, the many settings will have to be set for that purpose. When all the settings are correctly tweaked, the digital camera becomes capable of coping with the special requirements in a simple and straight-forward manner. There are two settings that are paramount in achieving quality, regardless of the subject matter. The first of these, and the most critical, is usually referred to as the IMAGE RECORDING QUALITY. In my opinion, it is a setting of the past that has outlived it's time. When digital cameras first came out, storage capacity (same as number of shots on a roll of film)was quite low. For example, the memory space within your camera might allow only twenty-five high quality pictures before running out. To boost that, they added software that would allow you to increase the number of shots that your camera could store up to a hundred shots. The trade-off was that in order to do so, they had to reduce the size of the file for each picture which, in turn, reduced the quality drastically. You ended up with 100 lousy pictures. The high quality that your camera (and you) had shot is gone forever...you can not get it back! Regardless of whether you shoot landscapes or butterflies...this one is a no-brainer, select the option for the HIGHEST QUALITY SETTING available. Set it now and never, ever change it, regardless of what you are shooting. The second setting actually occurs within your editing software. It is a setting that is also designed to allow for smaller picture files (read lousy quality pictures) to reduce memory space usage on your hard drive. This option is based on the same as above...smaller files require less storage space...smaller files equate to reduced quality. Most of us utilize some form of post-camera software to edit our photos before we SAVE them. After you have completed the editing and wish to close and save this file to a folder, it will query you to select the quality level at which you would like it SAVED. No-brainer time again...save at highest quality offered. I have all my photos, at the highest level of quality stored on the same hard drive that I have used for the last four years and that houses everything from my computer. According to my pie-chart of available space, I still have room for over 40,000 photos! Summarizing these two critical options, choose the highest quality for IMAGE RECORDING QUALITY...choose the highest quality when SAVING from your editing software. If you select less than that, you can never get it back! The below montage shows the quality difference that occurs as a result of the above two options. These two photos were shot with a camera on a tripod and with all but two settings identical. The photo on the left was shot with IMAGE RECORDING QUALITY at it's lowest quality option and it was SAVED in editing to it's lowest quality option. The photo on the right was shot with both options at the highest level. Now for the settings that will customize your camera for shooting butterflies. We need to determine the characteristics of butterfly photography that are problematic. They are tiny creatures that rarely fill the frame of the camera...they are defensive in nature which causes them to "spook" as we approach...they can fly...and they are cold-blooded which means that most photos will be taken in full sunlight rather than in easier to handle lighting situations. In my opinion, the qualities that cause a photo to be less than good are poor focus (includes motion blur) and poor exposure. FOCUS:Most cameras have an option for operating in the AUTO focus mode or the MANUAL focus mode. I strongly urge you to opt for the AUTO focus...it is faster, refocuses for each shot and, try as I might, I can not better it's accuracy or consistency. When you select AUTO focus, there are usually about three options from which you must select one. The first is a setting based on shooting still subjects. The second option is for shooting moving subjects and the third is a combination of the two. I get my best results when the "still subjects" option is selected. The butterflies are usually perched when photographed. With my Canon, this option is called ONE SHOT AF. I set it here right after I bought it when I did the initial camera settings and have left it there. EXPOSURE:The amount of light that reaches the sensor of your camera is based on the size of the opening that lets in the light (the aperture) and the amount of time that the light is allowed to come in (the shutter speed). When operating in FULL MANUAL, the operator must select and set both the aperture and the shutter speed. This requires lots of experience and/or a metering device if it is to be accurate. This is NOT my preferred operational mode! On some rare occasions, manual is the best but only rarely! Neither is FULL AUTO my preferred mode. There are two other modes that offer equally accurate exposure but allow for better control of other factors such as stopping movement and depth-of-field. These are called APERTURE PRIORITY or SHUTTER PRIORITY. They are based on the operator selecting either one of these controls and allowing the cameras software to select the other. Without getting into the technical aspects (they are tutorials of their own) the size of the aperture controls depth-of-field (the portion of the photo that is in sharp focus) while the speed of the shutter can "stop" the blurring effects of motion. Thusly, for me, when I go outside to shoot, if the breezes are blowing I select SHUTTER PRIORITY, set the shutter speed at 1/400 second (which is usually enough to eliminate the movement of the flowers that the butterflies are on) and make no further changes unless the wind goes away. If the wind is not a concern, I select APERTURE PRIORITY and select f/5.6 or higher so I get an acceptable depth-of-field. One of the toughest things to overcome in butterfly photography is the required meter readings for proper exposure. The difficulty arises due to the cameras desire to measure the full frame area while the area occupied by the butterfly is only a small fraction of that area. The skittishness of butterflies has taught us to shoot our first pictures when we get to about six feet away. We can ease in further and sometimes we will be allowed to get quite close but we are usually faced with a small bug in a big garden. This requires that we "tweak" the metering settings to conform with reality. With most cameras the metering settings consist of three or more options that serve as choices which control the parts of the image area that will be considered when setting exposures. The first is usually from nine to more than forty somewhat evenly spaced points that are "read" and averaged to arrive at the exposure. This is essentially useless for any small subjects. The second option is called "center weighted" and uses a circle around the center that comprises about 30% of the image area for the metering...better than the first option but still not the best. The final option is the best choice for butterflies...it is called SPOT. It is based on about 3%-4% of the area in a circle right around the middle of which our butterfly is a prominent part. This is how I keep my camera at all times regardless of what I am shooting. It is my belief that this setting is used to influence the auto focus function even though the manual does not specifically state this. One of the main settings for me is one called EXPOSURE VALUE or EV. The person(s) who wrote the software for your camera had to, at some point, make a decision as to what constituted the "correct" exposure. It will approximate the middle-of-the-road point that is not too dark and not too bright. It can vary slightly from camera maker to camera maker since it is a judgmental call. They have all set up an EV adjustment (usually as a slider)that is graduated in 1/3 f/stop increments from -2 full stops to +2 full stops. The camera comes out of the box set to shoot with the exposures that yield a photo that would come with shooting at 0 adjustment. When you adjust to the left or right of zero, you are altering the aim point to either an overall darker image or an overall lighter image. Your camera will still do it's superior job of metering and setting exposures...it's just that you have told it "I like what you are doing but I would like it a little better if your results were just a tad darker". My personal results fit my taste better with -2 increments (-2/3 f/stops).One of the reasons that I select a slightly darker image is that most of my shots are in full sun and the chance of overexposure is great with the vivid colors of the flowers that they nectar on. The second reason is that editing software can correct for considerable underexposure but a picture that is overexposed is mainly lost forever. Burned out highlights are irretrievable. I occasionally shoot a photo that appears a little "off" when I review it on the monitor. When I do, I usually shoot two more photos of the same subject...one that has one increment more than the original and another with one increment less. This is called "bracketing" the exposure. When I edit them, I keep one and trash the other two. A small group of settings that I consider personal taste modifiers include contrast, saturation and brightness. I keep these all at +1...your taste may differ from mine. I do not alter the sharpness setting. I leave it at the manufacturers settings and make any adjustments in my editing software. ISO:These settings serve to modify the sensor's sensitivity to light. Increasing the ISO number allows your camera to arrive at the proper exposure in low-light situations. The trade-off is that you lose quality in proportion to the increase in the ISO number. The reduced quality manifests itself with softer focus, color faults and the introduction of tiny specks of color that increases progressively with the increase in ISO number. Most cameras yield pretty good results up to ISO400...above that can be less than good. I keep my camera at it's lowest ISO setting-ISO 80. When you increase the ISO setting the camera must adjust the aperture or shutter speed. Shooting in full sunlight with high ISO settings can cause your camera to be unable to correct to a proper level of exposure. WHITE BALANCE: This refers to your camera's ability to correct from tainted light sources. Pure sunlight produces shades of yellow, red and other colors at different times of day and based on many other factors. Incandescent and fluorescent lights vary greatly from daylight sources. The internal software of most digital cameras when set on AUTO does a superb job of this. A few years ago, the digital cameras had difficulty with vivid colors like dark red and purple but that is history. The recent cameras capture the toughest colors with ease. If spot-on color is called for, most digitals offer a CUSTOM setting which really works...it is cumbersome but will get the job done. In my experience, improper exposure is more often the cause of poor color than is tainted light sources or improper white balance settings. Recap of Settings: IMAGE RECORDING QUALITY:The highest level available. SAVE QUALITY:The highest level available FOCUS:AUTO with STILL OPTION OPERATING MODE:Aperture Priority if wind is not a problem Shutter Priority if wind is a factor DO NOT SELECT MANUAL EXPOSURE VALUE:(-2) increments=(-2/3) f/stops METERING:Spot WHITE BALANCE:Auto ISO:Lowest number available CONTRAST:(+1) SATURATION:(+1) BRIGHTNESS:(+1) SHARPNESS:Make no change Motion blur appears as a blurry, or improperly focused photo. It is a function of movement that usually is generated at the camera. The best solution that I have found is a good old-fashioned sturdy tripod. Many of today's cameras or lenses have image stabilization capabilities...if your's does, keep the switch ON! It can really help. I sincerely hope that your results give you as much pleasure as mine has given me. Bob .

Well Boulder, if you think I'm phishing then you don't have to contact me-simple. Some folks are just trying to make some extra money and they don't have the acreage you do and they don't really want to farm. And did I say it was "easy?" I think I said it was work-but not like a farm would require. Little minnie-I get students from 3 general avenues: 1. As an addition to a library class that I teach 2. Word of mouth by those who have been to a class 3. Free advertising in the local newspaper Occasionally I will teach an entire neighborhood. I usually get one of those a summer, and there have been some summers where I did 2 or 3(30+ people each time.) I also teach at other local places by invitation that bring in good money. Here's an example of the ad I am running right now in the local papers. Keep in mind most of the work has been done for the year but there are still a lot of lookers and takers. Here it is: http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=31472313&cat=62 Hope that gives you some ideas. It's one of many things I've been able to do. Really-contact me by email. I'm selling nothing. If I am all you need to do is come back into the forum and tell everyone-then I'll be banned from here. Some folks think there's only one way to do things. That's not my experience. Email: jrt2020_2@msn.com http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=31472313&cat=62

Good morning everyone! Aaahhhh Louie! Where can I begin? Since his arrival he has knocked over just about everything. Eaten 1 of our snakes (now, I can't confirm he killed it, but I did see him munching on it yesterday...can I say eeeewwwwww) And, he has single handedly mowed down almost all the flowers of my floating hearts. I did see him taking down my water celery last night. I want to be upset with him, but, I just can't. He's so little. Maybe a foot long. I told the kids he's like having another toddler running around. You just have to fix everything after he's finished with it. Bunzy (our paint turtle) and her two new paint turtle friends who showed up a few weeks ago, Bubba and Penelope (the kids named them, lol) all seem to be getting along just fine with each other. They were the only one's I was worried about. I'm going to try to get some pictures of him tonight. Last night I was feeding the fish and watching the turtles come up and eat the food. I was to zoned in on watching them that I started to get that weird feeling like I was being watched. I turn my head and there is LOUIE about 2 feet away from my feet munching away in the water. He is NOT afraid of people, lol! Sheri, LOL,I have no clue where he came from? We are close to the Seneca River. I say close, maybe a mile away, and our neighbors have ponds in their pastures. I don't know?? I can't imagine something so little traveling so far? Shirley, our "flying dinosaurs" have been making their nightly appearance as well. The herons aren't afraid of us either! The kids run at them yelling, they just walk to the other side of the pond. I put a couple of shepherds hooks down there with garden flags thinking moving things blowing around might scare them...nope. Hubby got me 2 beautiful heron statues last year for Christmas to scare them away. They stand right next to them, lol. The iris' did have a great spring! I did have some problems with rot afterward. I don't know if it was the crazy cold we had or what? I have a few die off completely. :( The ones that survived are multiplying like crazy. Your daylilies are so gorgeous! How large is Big Bird? I am picturing a very large flower head :) Col :) Yeah! It made it!! So happy!! I hope the Hawaiian Surf made it okay too? Since today is Friday, I've decided to call 2 BINGO WORDS :) THE BINGO WORDS FOR FRIDAY ARE: ALIEN'S STARDUST and OGON WOGON OH MY BINGO WORDS CALLED: 1. FLAMINGO TWISTER 2. DO THE MATH 3. TURTLE TIE DYE 4. TINTINNABULATION 5. ALIEN'S STARDUST 6. OGON WOGON OH MY'ERS: Shirley (brittneysgran) AND Alana (poisondartfrog) SWAP WITH EACH OTHER frankielynn AND Sue (sueguanzon) SWAP WITH EACH OTHER~~~frannkielynn SENT~~~ Kathie (sinbadsmom) AND Jayeanne (pinkiris) SWAP WITH EACH OTHER~~~ Jayeanne (pinkiris) SENT~~~Kathie (sinbadsmom) REC'D~~~ Sheri (panhandle_seed_swap) AND Cinnie0 SWAP WITH EACH OTHER~~~Sheri 1/2 SENT :)~~~~Cinnie0 REC'D~~~ Suzanne(hibiscusfan) SENDS TO Colcol Colcol SENDS TO Vina (flowergirl34) Vina(flowergirl34) SENDS TO Suzanne (hibiscusfan)~~SENT~~ Tomorrow is the last day to mail for our swap. I hope everyone has been in contact with your swap partners. Or if you made arrangements to mail a little later. If you haven't heard from your partner at all please let me know. Have a super Friday! vina ps. Tomorrow is the 50 mile long garage sale around here. It's amazing!! Kids are having a pool party today and tomorrow its all garage sales, lol. Iris: Ambrosia Fool

Frugality is NOT the same thing as deprivation. Well said, Chelone! Frugality teaches you flexibility and gains you security and freedom. Consciousness and awareness about spending choices really, really pays off. Mudbelly, I see your other thread asking about car loans. There's a perfect example of a clear choice: vehicles. I could afford to buy anything, but I'm happy with my 10 year old Toyota RAV and will drive it into the ground. When DH's sixteen year old car died, we researched the heck out of options and paid cash for a 5 year old meticulously maintained Subaru. Great car. For kicks DH keeps a sports car - couple years ago he traded the 80's Corvette for a 96 convertible Z28 Camaro, both easily as much fun as newer ones 5 times the cost. And unlike many biker buddies, he's kept and babied his 95 Road King rather than trade up every few years. Boy's gotta have his toys. So on the one hand, 4 vehicles is surely indulgent. Absolutely. On the other hand, they are paid for and the worth of all 4 is less than one new luxury car or SUV. High deductible and no collision makes the insurance reasonable. And they add quality to life. 50,000 in motorcycle road trips all over the country, stopping to stay at Mom and Pop places rather than resorts, has been a total blast, albeit frugal. I've become an ace at cobbling great breakfasts and lunches, even dinners, out of grocery stores on the fly, LOL. Ditto housing. We could afford a much more expensive place, but our 2 bedroom + study is perfect for us. And with no mortgage now, heck, we just put in a hot tub. Again, indulgent? Absolutely. But in the big picture, it is the frugal choices day in and day out - from big things like vehicles and housing to small things like lunches and clothing - that make indulgences possible. At any age. And if things got tight, I'd just cut out those indulgences and forge on seamlessly and effortlessly with my core frugal lifestyle. I like shopping Goodwill and the farmers' markets and making do from there. Seriously. Starbucks and the malls could disappear and I wouldn't even notice. Frugality is NOT the same thing as deprivation. Indeed!