I had no doubt they do recommend buttermilk powder. (I'm no expert! However, I've used it before and personally didn't care for it, but neither would I sour milk with vinegar and think it particularly good. I don't always agree with ATK's recommendations, although if it's something I'm not sure about they are a good place to start. I'll freely admit Personal Preference here. I always have buttermilk on hand as it lasts a long time and there's so many things to do with it.) On the other hand bbstx, you made me look at pan sizes, as I couldn't quite remember what they said. I'll admit I'm a geek; I always like to know the reason why. Here's what they had to say about pan sizes: For best results when substituting baking pans, surface area, not shape, is what matters. We prepared our favorite yellow cake in two 9-inch round cake pans (the size specified in the recipe), two 8-inch square pans, and two 8-inch round pans. The 9-inch round and 8-inch square pans have the same surface area (see chart below), and the cake layers were done in the baking time specified in the recipe: 20 to 25 minutes. The cake layers baked in the smaller 8-inch round pans finished baking in about 25 minutes, but the bottom of the cake burned while we were waiting for the center of the cake to cook through. These layers were 3/8 inch thicker than the layers baked in the other pans. Our conclusion? If you need to substitute one baking pan for another, figure out the surface area (in square inches) of the pan called for in the recipe, then find the pan in your cabinet that most closely matches the surface area of the requested pan. If you can't find an exact substitute, be aware that using slightly larger pans will result in flatter cakes and slightly reduced baking times and that using slightly smaller pans will result in taller cakes and slightly increased baking times. Surface Area of Common Pans Baking Pan Size Surface Area 8-inch round 50 square inches 8-inch square 64 square inches 9-inch round 64 square inches 11 inches by 7 inches 77 square inches 9-inch square 81 square inches 13 inches by 9 inches 117 square inches On their recommendation, I also added a ruler to my kitchen tools so I'd never have to guess what size pan I was using.

Got it. I'm on board with 555, not just because it's the code but because it's hard to argue against it -- it makes good sense and I want my work safe. So now for the part about hooking up the generator: What'd I'd like to do is at the stub up near where the dock meets the shore, I'd like to put in the power transfer box. Someday, when I build a house I will replace it with power from the grid; today I would like to just put in a box to power from a quiet generator. -If I put in a 30A power transfer and run 10gauge to the breaker box (that I have yet to buy or install) is it appropriate to use only 3 of the wires (white black ground) and cap off one for eventual use with grid power? -The reason I want to do it that way is so that I can run the wire once and use it later when I get more power. Alternatively, I can put the gennie on the land and just run an extension cord but then there's a cord running down the dock. -What is your recommendation on power transfer? -What is your recommendation on the size of the breaker panel (I am planning on 100W of lighting, a stereo of say 200W, a ceiling fan ~150W, and my boat lift 1.5kw to start and not sure the operating load--will need to use my killawatt)? -My thoughts were to buy one that would house 4 breakers: 1 for electrical outlets, 1 for lighting and fan, 1 for boat lift, and 1 unused. I'm not looking forward to beating the grounding rod into the ground though. Thank you!

What is the load current or horsepower of the water pump? Is this something that is going to run a lot? At 90 ft, 68 deg F, and 30 amps, #10 has 4.7% voltage drop. This might be ok, just not the most efficient. If it is a big pump motor, starting would be just a little more difficult but I wouldn't worry about a 1/4 or 1/2 horse motor. Excuse my ignorance, but is the boat shore power 120 volt or 120/240? I think it might be 120 in which case you could put the boat on one hot leg and the pump on the other and probably never have to think about tripping the breaker in the main panel. You need to add up what loads you think you might actually use on each hot leg and see if you are pushing the limits. Will you ever use 30A on the boat? If things are close tolimits, a compromise might be 40A breaker and #8.

Before having any wiring done, you need to decide on what product you are using! Most of our customers go with the battery-powered motorization (because the shades are installed post-construction). But, with our customers who have chosen to go with the hard-wired option, we started working with them and their contractor during the construction phase, so everyone was on the same page as to wiring, specs, etc. If you are going to spend the money to have hard-wired shades, find a good local company to work with. If they know what they are doing, they will work with the contractor/electrician. Plus, you want someone who knows how to repair and troubleshoot these shades if there are issues after installation (always a possibility with electronics).