dowl is correct .. and i will add.. give more space to things that can NOT be moved easily .. such as shrubs ... and also remember.. size estimates on permanent plants.. is at a given time frame.. things usually keep growing right past said ESTIMATES ... its just a matter of how many years ... and dont worry about things that can be moved easily.. columbine .. or biennial/annual ... etc ... some things need permanent spacing.. other things are much more flexible ... and for a newbie spying in here.. never forget.. a garden is not a static thing ... when you spacing fails.. MOVE THINGS .... and lisa .. dont worry about the senior moments.. unless it involves putting on your pants .. before you go outside to the garden.. that is when you will have real problems.. lol ... ken

Nepeta is one of the most carefree long blooming plants there is. I think it's worth a try. I have two cats, and used to have another. None of them took any interest in my nepeta at all, even when I stuck it under their noses. We have ferrel cats in our neighborhood too and I have never seen one around my nepeta. If you do happen to have a cat in the neighborhood that wants to eat it or lay in it, at least it probably won't want to poop there too. Nepeta is easy to propagate. If you carefully pull a stem away from the base, it will already have itty bitty roots attached to it and can grow into a good size plant in one season. Just stick the new starts in a shady place for awhile until they get established. It should be very easy to get nepeta in a plant trade or make your own starts if you purchase a plant. Then if you do happen to have new cats hanging around, you won't have spent much and can rip it all out. I don't think you'll need to. In fact there may be some places in your garden where you can use nepeta as a ground cover instead of loose mulch where I suspect you're finding kitty poo. Cats like to scratch in loose soil, sand, or mulch. They're not likely to poop on top of a plant.

Pam, If you're using the polycarb ridge cap with the same kind of corrugations as the panels, you need to screw it down like the sheets. Or, you can just buy lengths of galvanized steel ridge and screw it to the corrugations and use filler strips to plug the spaces in between. I've used a vented ridge cap on some applications too. It allows hot air to escape through non-leaking vents in the pieces. Easy way to crawl on the structure is to cut a piece of 3/8" OSB to just short of where the ridge edge will go. Build a "stop" out of 2X that'll screw onto the top plate or exposed wall studs to hold the OSB. Screw that to the OSB. Ladder up to the platform and lay the pre-drilled cap in place. Come down and move the structure down the wall 4'. Don't forget to orient the seams away from the prevailing wind. Seal them with some silicone. Depending on the pitch of the roof, you may have to put some thin battens on the OSB sheet to keep from slipping off, or losing a drill...

dscpa, your methods are contrary to most standards. Cages are usually more desirable for det. varieties and staking or trelising for the taller indt. varieties. I wouldn'd condemn any method that keeps the fruit clean, including putting a mat of straw under plants if you can demonstrate success with the method. Many years ago I purchased a few thousand 30" cages at an auction and I have since used them to my satisfaction for field grown det. varieties. For indt. varieties I stick to using the framework of my greenhouses to hold stringlines to which the tomato stems are clipped. Many of those indt. varieties, especially cherry/grape types, will grow to 15+ feet in height in a season and I know of no stakes available commercially to provide the needed support. I'll be growing more dwarf varieties this year than ever before to sell as potted plants but for my own harvests I'll stick with full size plants. I would never say that the dwarf plants or any others are a waste of garden space but I'll note that every growers desires are unique. Some of us would never go to bother supporting peppers or eggplants.