Very nice extremely rich looking product. Normally offered in Dark kempas, Light, and mixed. Very very formal look...very difficult to keep pristine if young family. Will show wear very quickly if the room is an active room!

Nick, I love that Bc. Daffodil. I never saw it before. I don't know what to send you. I'll start posting some pics, but you have me beat big time! Jane

At the very least, they should recommend an acid neutralizer. As to the iron, treatment depends on whether it is ferric (particulate), or ferrous (dissolved). You'll need a dedicated iron/manganese removal unit. If any vendor recommends a softener for your iron removal, show them the door. A little light reading about various iron removal options: Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. This will also remove most sulfur compounds. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. Most will remove sulfur compounds as well as iron. These are relatively easy to operate and what I would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used: Manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (a) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft. Birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. Pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it - this means you have to rely entirely on the vendor for proper sizing. Backwash daily. Filox: Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15 gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily. Pro-OX: Essentially the same as the previous three. Requires 12-15 gpm/sqft backwash. As with Terminox, specs are lacking information so you'll have no way of knowing if the unit you get is sized appropriately. Katalox-light: Similar in action to the previous four, but is comprised of zeolite, manganese dioxide and hydrated lime. It should be designed for 6 - 12 gpm/sqft service flow atnd 8 - 10 gpm/sqft backwash. For well water, it's a good option as it requires lower backwash. In all cases, media ought to be replace somewhere between 5 - 10 years. If any vendor tells you their media lasts forever, walk away - they aren't trustworthy.

On a quick look at the website, I think I saw that the recycled has 25% more substance. I did not even notice the prices. Are they 20% more in cost? Anyway, I want to tell you that we have two large Waterhog mats (the recycled) and they are so sturdy. Small rugs elsewhere in the house have undergone multiple replacements over the years, but the Waterhogs just keep on going, still looking crisp and clean. Twice a year we wash, them hung over sawhorses, sprayed with the garden hose and a Dawn detergent solution. One compliant is that it can be hard to get them to let loose of some bits of debris when vacuuming. It is not just my vacuum; I'm on my second vac and still have the same problem. I also saw mention of that at the LLBean website reviews before I purchased. The other concern/complaint is that I've decided they do look a little "commercial", like something you might find at a store entry. I can live with both complaints quite well because they just function so well. No sliding even without carpet tape. Wears like iron. Doesn't seem to stain. Doesn't crease or roll up at corners. Truly does catch the water, ice, snow, salt, dirt, sand, grass, pebbles, etc that otherwise might track through the house. A lifetime purchase.