I read you answer to my question and took action immediately. I removed the trees from their two gallon plastic containers right at the edge of the holes I had dug for them in my yard. Using large tin snips I cut across from one drainage hole to the other on the lower edge of the pot. Then I cut straight down the pot from top to bottom and opened up that area of the pot like a book. That let me get my two hands around the entire dirt ball and removed it directly into the planting hole. Never disturbed the roots one bit. I made sure that the soil was damp. We have been having cloudy and drizzly weather for 3 days and it may last for two more days. This may help the trees in catching. They where plenty use to sun and the wind. I placed screening around them as well. I also placed composted old grass clippings around the top of the holes I dug. I have to apply something to protect the bark on the trunks. Thanks Lou

Meyers flower primarily on new growth; but some on branches less than a year old. Patricia, I wouldn't prune those; the bare parts will eventually fill in with new growth if you treat the tree correctly. What I would do, to encourage new growth would be to take off almost all of any fruit that sets. Young Meyers are not good at self thinning and tend to keep too much fruit; hence the tree "forgets" to grow. Don't take off the flowers; it will only make more; wait until the fruits, if any, and when they are BB to pea size, then cut them, A good shot of fertilizer after cutting the fruits will usually result in a growth spurt.

Hi, Viv. I'm ok. I owe you email replies, I know. ;o) Probably not fertilizer related, unless maybe you're a little light on the dosage or long on the interval; or, if you didn't add lime to the soil, you're probably lacking Ca and Mg in your plant's diet, because they aren't found in the MG. This: "... bagged garden soil which has some topsoil and soil conditioners, which leaves it open and well-drained." right away, throws up warning flags. Bagged garden soil is usually sand with a little compost mixed in (the conditioner?). I've fielded dozens of questions like yours over the years that involved using bagged garden soils or topsoil of one type or another in containers, and chlorosis. My guess is it's a compaction/water retention issue. Sun shouldn't cause wilting when the soil is moist/damp, unless root function is compromised. It might if your plant was a recent transplant/repot, but if you started the cutting in that soil, the root system should be able to keep the canopy hydrated. Roots always come first, and the plant won't grow a canopy it cannot support. WE can DO THINGS that make the plant unable to support the canopy, but left to its natural devices, the roots grow, then the canopy. High (actual) root temperatures (90*+) can cause wilting, but it sounds like your plant is barely able to keep the plant hydrated when the soil is cool AND the plant is in shade. If it wilts quickly after moving it to sun, especially if you know the roots are still in the 'safe temp zone', you can be almost certain there are root issues - probably soil related. If you can't repot, I would still use a wick. If you allow a wick to dangle below a drain hole after watering, it will 'fool' the water into thinking the pot is deeper. The water will move down the wick, 'looking' for the bottom of the pot, and be pushed off the bottom of the wick by the water column moving down behind it. Also helpful would be to partially fill a larger container (4-5" deep) with the same soil you're using. Set your pot in that container on the soil & fill in around it. If your soil supports 4" of perched water, and you set your pot on 4" of soil & fill around it, ALL the perched water in your soil will move into the bottom of the larger pot. This will still leave you to deal with the compaction issue (lack of air) but at least the soil won't be soggy. Finally, anaerobic conditions at the pot bottom set up an environment where noxious gasses are produced. Sulfurous gasses, excess CO2, and methane (think sewer gas) all cause problems, one of the symptoms of which is, again, chlorosis. Al

Hi Kaysha. I don't really know either but I don't think they would die, since they'd be in full sun behind a window some of the time and bright light the rest. Are the clouds white, light or dark ones? There'd be more brightness through white clouds so that would help. I get the feeling that behind a window intensifies the light? If so that might help too. Grow lights might keep them compact. I've read a few threads where some, without the money, have worked out really cheap products to use. Maybe do a search for "cheap grow lights", and if it's helpful, your a bit prepared if you need them. Wish you and your plants well.