I think it's a Deutzia. Here is a link that might be useful:

Got to ask why? Alpine-types have so little flavor and no size when compared to normal strawberries and strawberry plants are so inexpensive and have 10x the success rate. That said the previous discussion linked below has lots of how-to tips. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow Alpine Strawberries from seed

Let's see ... I have 3 Lucy ROS and 1 Blue Satin. don't know how they compare as far as growing conditions to Freedom. I assume they are similar. The BS is in full, all day sun. It flowers but doesn't grow terribly tall (maybe 5 feet?). I've pushed the zone on that one. Of my 3 Lucys, 1 faces east & gets morning sun until about 1:30 pm. It's going gangbusters & blooms like mad. One faces south gets full - dappled sun most of the day (trees nearby). It's so massive that I just took 4 feet off the top, and it's still over 8 ft. Blooms like crazy. The third guy was just a stick when I got him, so I didn't think he'd survive. I shoved him in the backyard behind the garage facing west. It doesn't get a lot of direct sun because of the trees, but it's sure to get a few hours of the hottest sun of the day. That's not growing as fast as the 2nd one, but it's still quite tall none-the-less with lots of blooms. I don't fertilize any of them. Does that help?

I can't tell what's going on in the first picture. Sorry. Too fuzzy. In the second picture, I've emasculated flowers as far gone as the one on the left and still gotten a good cross. If you emasculated the bud on the right at an even earlier stage, great. What I do is emasculate one or two of the most robust and best supported green buds in a cluster and wait two or three days until the other buds that were of about the same stage and in the same cluster almost open fully and indicate almost readiness to self-pollinate. Then I remove them from the cluster so the only thing left is the one or two emasculated and waiting pistils. Then I carry two, three or four blossoms over from the pollen donor plant and apply pollen using the plucked donor blossoms like Q-tips and very gently apply pollen to the receiving stigma. Then I break open the anther cones on the donor blossoms and carefully smear some more pollen on the receiving stigma. I do this two or three days in a row at about midday. Look on page 3 of This PDF and in photo number 4 ... that's about the stage of blossom that I try to emasculate then wait 2 - 3 days to pollinate. I most frequently am successful emasculating blossoms of beefsteak types like Cherokee Purple, Brandywine, etc. where the blossoms are nice fat daisies like the one with the fat pistil you show in the second picture of your original post. And yes, I like to use the potato leaf parent as the seed parent and then whatever more delicate flowered and regular leaf variety as the pollen donor. But then I've had success with Juane Flammee x Sungold and Indian Stripe x Sungold too. Just had to wait 'til the fruit showed size and color in the first and until the flowers showed cherry trusses in the second. However, either of those two crosses were detectible as successes by the aroma of the leaves almost matching Sungold. Another thing ... do a bunch of attempts on each of your pairings since not all of them will take, especially where you accidentally bruise the pistils. Also, I keep the seed from each individual cross stored separately and labeled like CP x Bradley 07A, CP x Bradley 07B, etc. just in case I got stray pollen or a no-cross on one of my attempts. Good luck ... it's great fun. Bill