I haven't been too impressed with the quality of lighting fixtures offered at the big box stores. They seem adequate for rental properties, where tenants are likely to damage them in a few years anyway. It's not for everyone, but you might try shopping garage sales in older neighborhoods for fixtures. When young folks buy old houses they often want to "update" them. They then replace high quality 40-60 year old fixtures with big box store junk. A few dollars and a little rewiring, and you have a fixture good for another 40-60 years of service. But I have to admit, you're not too likely to find track lighting this way. :)

@overhear Before the last two summers' restoration work, many of the sashes were painted shut, and a lot of the aluminum storms didn't open more than 20 cm (8"), so we have a lot more air movement in the house now. Most of the summer, we're able to keep the house cool by closing everything up during the day, and then opening windows and putting window fans in the bedrooms at night. Considering that the house has no insulation in the walls, this is no small feat! I was initially concerned about whether enough breeze would get in because of the way the casements open, but it wasn't an issue last summer. As for maintenance - the house is covered in original, 140-year-old wood trim, including a lot of "gingerbread" that I've been stripping and restoring over the last two years. The old growth wood is in amazing condition, (other than a few areas with rot that I repaired with Rhino wood repair - an amazing product!) In general, new growth wood doesn't last nearly as long, but when primed and painted, new wood windows will last longer than vinyl replacement windows, which are rarely guaranteed for more than 10 years. Mine are made of accoya, which is a specially treated wood product that is supposed to last up to 50 years! I'm estimating that touch-ups to paint will be necessary every 5 years or so, but the trick is to keep up with touch-ups so that a major repainting isn't necessary. Putty should be replaced every 20 years (mine have gone too long!) but my storms have wood stops so they won't need to be redone. This website has a lot of good information about wood windows: https://www.oldhouseguy.com/windows/

I bought a harbor freight 4 ft. model for cuts across plywood. It's ok for the 10x I've used it.I also bought an 8 ft. straight edge from Home Depot that comes in two pieces. I was surprised how straight it is. It requires clamping to the substrate and making sure the clamps don't interfere with the saw. But, honestly for the deck, a good circular saw and a steady hand shouldn't require a straight edge for cutting deck boards. If you want, clamp a straight board down. Especially since on a deck, one board that is lower than others can allow the saw base to wander under the straight edge

Not on this user forum. Maybe call houzz directly? Search your credit card online to get a transaction number?