Just what I would want to do is do that-BUT it would do the trick. LOL. We had the dry creek bed built...so there is no problem with it ruining any part of any watershed. I did find a solution though and have used it and it seems to be working. :):) Got the tonic from a book called Backyard Problem Solver by Jerry Baker (he's a master gardener)..anyway...he said to really zing a lot of weeds in a large area, overspray them first with this tonic; 1 cup of liquid soap 1 cup of ammonia 4 Tbsp. of tea granules mix all of these ingredients in your 20 gallon hose-end sprayer, filling the balance with warm water. Then spray away! Sooo I've done it and it seems to be working. Yahoo.

I think that you are going to have a wildflower garden that includes some of the grass that was there before you planted. There is probably no way to get rid of it now, and even if you did, it might just move in later. you'll have to accept this, which means you don't have to worry about pulling up all the grass. I would instead try to make sure that really noxious weeds are kept out, and keep pulling larger weeds or trailing grasses which seem ot be crowding out wildflowers. Things like Canada Thistle, Spotted Knapweed, and similar invasive plants that could really take over should be killed. You can pull out the larger clumps of grass, but probably most of the wildflowers will be able to coexist with grass pretty well. I am assuming that the grass is one of the common exotic pasture or lawn grasses - orchard grass, timothy, etc. Eventually you should be able to have a mix of wildflowers, some grasses, and some weeds that still gives you the look and feel of a prairie despite the presence of some non-natives. Keep in mind that it would be almost impossible to have zero non-natives. You are instead trying for a balance that includes all the flowers you want and not too much stuff that you don't want.

Wow! Talk about troubles! My house was broken into last Wednesday and all my time went to that. But here we are... Thistle is easy after it bolts (shoots upward). All you need is a shovel. Stick the shovel into the base and push through severing the top growth from the ground based rosette. Done. Check back in a week for any regrowth and repeat where needed. For the rest of the weeds in the St Augustine, you'll need a product with atrazine. Here's one of them you can find at Walmart. Read the entire instructions, twice, and follow them carefully. This is not the sort of stuff you want to walk through or let your pets into. It is also not an immediate kill, but in 2-3 weeks everything but the St Aug will be brown. And be sure to only aim this at the lawn. Don't get it on your ilex or crepe myrtles. I'm going to ask you how often you water the lawn, but I'm going to predict your answer and explain what you need to do to cure your weed problem. You were going to tell me you water every day. Why did I say that? Because you're in FL. Everyone there waters daily. Daily water is exactly what the weed seeds need to germinate. Established turf, on the other hand, doesn't even nearly need water that often. I did an experiment with St Augustine located on the eastern edge of the Texas desert. I stopped mowing (to develop deep roots) and as much as I could, I stopped watering. I started the project in Oct 2011. To date there is about 1,000 square feet which I have not watered even once. It has been 42 months, including a very severe drought and not much else until last fall, since I watered that area. All it has received is rain. As it turns out this part of the grass is in full shade, but the point is, you do NOT have to water as frequently as the Florida lawn industry tells you. What we tell everyone is to water deeply (meaning 1 full inch all at one time) and infrequently (meaning NEVER to water every day). Infrequently depends on the temperature. If the temp is below 70, then infrequently means to water once a month. If the temperature is in the 90s (like most of FL for most of the summer), then water once per WEEK. But always water the full inch. This schedule allows the surface of the soil to completely dry out. When the surface is dry, most weed seeds cannot germinate. The second thing you should be doing on the St Augustine is mowing at the mower's HIGHEST position. There is never any reason to lower the mower deck for St Augustine. I sometimes tell people to weld it in place so your well-meaning neighbor kid doesn't try to do you a favor and cut it short. Tall grass develops deeper roots and provides much more shade to the soil helping to moderate the soil temperature. Weed seedlings also need sunlight to grow, so if you shade the surface, any weed seeds that sprout will have a hard time growing. If I had a mower to do it, I would wait until the grass got to 12 inches and then mow it back to 9 inches tall. The grass in my experiment is almost waist deep at this point. We've had a wet fall, winter, and spring. I emptied 7 inches of rain out of the gage in the past month. That's really rare. So in addition to deep infrequent watering, mow it high to minimize weeds. If you are doing those two things, you should never have a problem with grassy weeds. You might still get the occasional dichondra or other broadleaf weed, so keep the atrazine handy from year to year. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.

if you could just give it 6 inches of no mowing ... for a month or two ... you could dig out the bulb and move it to a garden bed ... on such.. you need to let the plant restore energy.. before it goes dormant ... if you dig it now.. maybe you win.. maybe you dont ... but looking at that perfect green carpet .. i doubt you want to let it naturalize.. as flora suggests ... what surprises me.. with your perfect lawn .. is that it seems immune to excessive fert.. and presumably weed agents ... go figure.. tough little bugger ... if you want it moved... take a butcher knife ... cut a cross .. pull back the sod.. so you can dig out the bulb ... go place it in a garden bed ... and reset the sod ... and bobs your uncle ... ken