Depends on how big they are, gonz, and what your ultimate game plan is. There is no one correct way. For me, I do so many that time and space is always a major concern. For this reason I sow the seeds directly (no time-consuming soaking, drying, ect.) and they tend to get sown fairly densely in the initial community pots. They are not likely to attain too much size as long as they're that crowded, so from there they get "spotted off" into a community tray as soon as they are big enough and firm enough to handle. This is faster and takes up less space than 2" pots. My trays can only hold @ 50-75 seedlings (depending on their size at the time of spotting, they may be spaced from 1.5" to 3" apart), so if there's more than will fit, only the most vigorous are kept, or whichever ones are showing me anything that looks like it might be something I want. That's the first cull. The second comes when it's time to move them from the tray to individual pots. Usually into 4" pots at this point, but it really depends on how big they are and how big I expect them to become. I try to let them grow out in the trays until they are showing some kind of coloration or markings that will allow me to cull more efficiently. How long that takes will vary quite a bit with the type of markings I'm working with, so for certain types they may be better suited for a 5" pot by that time. Of course if you know that they're not likely to get any bigger than a 6" pot, why not just go into a 6" at that point? You don't want to overpot too much, though, or you'll get strappy growth. Bottom line, just take it case by case and use common sense!

I usually use google image search to ID things. It isnt always right but here's what I found: 1.Tephrocactus articulatus v. papyracanthus 2. F. tuberculosa 3. I don't really know, but google images says it looks like Gymnocalycium ragonesei 4. Haworthia fasciata

Tintin..How tall is the entire plant/tree now? It looks like fungi. I did some research on fungus w/house plants, and though some authors promote fungicides others are against using on indoor plants. Here's what it says: Fungicides are chemicals that kill or inhibit the growth of fungi, so it makes sense that using a fungicide might cure a disease problem. Unfortunately, this rarely works, for two reasons. 1. Fungicides are best used preventatively, before a disease becomes serious, because they are used more for stopping fungal 'spores,' from germinating than routing out an established infection. 2. Leaf tissues do not regernerate once they have been devastated by a fungal disease, so stopping the progress of the fungus does little to restore health. Save your use of fungicides for outdoor plants at high risk of developing fungal diseases, and use them to prevent, rather than cure, fungus problems. How often do you fertilize? Did you try flushing soil? For some reason, of all Dracaenas, Draco is most finicky. I have two Dracos, both started as babies, 'not seed though.' Both have some brown on leaves, though not circles. I tend to underwater, a little too much, plus both are underpotted, so brown leaves, and direct sun, 'direct' will naturally brown. If your Draco soil is old, maybe you should toss and use fresh, well-draining soil. Draco's cannot live in continuously wet soil, so make sure it dries between waterings. How often do you fertilize? Dracos are slow-growers, so they don't need much fert, it should be stopped entirely when plant goes dormant. If you do fertilize, what type of fert do you use? Chemical or oganic? I still think your Draco has a fungus, but if you're using chemical fertilizer, soil should be flushed..This is important. Salt build up leads to all types of problems, and most chemical ferts contain a lot of salt..plus the more you fertilize the more salt build up. So, if your Draco soil isn't too old, but you use chemical fertilizer, why not flush soil? It won't hurt. In the meantime, isolate your Draco from other plants. As the author states, fungi spreads through spores. Remove completely marred leaves, and trim leaves with brown edges and tips. Reduce fertilizers, when your Draco looks better, why not use an organic fertlizer like Fish Emulsion. Though I must warn you..FE has an odor. They sell an odorless type, but it still has a little fishy smell. lol..Still, a couple days of smell is worth saving a plant, especially one grown from seed. As for water..What I do is, since many plants can't endure tap water, I save used/cleaned milk containers then fill w/regular tap water..Let sit at least 24 hours. When plant needs a drink, the room-temp, tepid water is available. Good luck, Toni

Nice E. s. 'Blue'! And so is E. 'Black prince', and I could see some variegation. That's great, hope you don't want to get rid of the leaves :) Your sempervivums are also nice, but they seem to be drooping the leaves down, could some be little too wet perhaps? Another reason for them to do some of that could be not enough light? The last photo is also showing etiolated plants. That could be avoided by providing better light. Couple of pots could have soil level raised - plants are getting 'lost' too low in the container. Is there a drainage hole in all of your containers? Graptopetalum may be G. pentalum s. superbum.