Uh-Oh....... maybe a refit to the S.S.S.S.?

Antiquesiluver - I used some tricks for the staining and floor laying. I didn't really stain the pine. After the dirt and paint was removed, and the old crusty varnish scraped off, it was the color you see on most of the board area. It got a scuff sanding and a light "whoosh" of stain to even out the color. (like a henna rinse for a redhead, not a dye job on a blonde) You can minimize "grabbing" on pine by wiping it with mineral spirits and then the stain while it's still wet. 1 - Ignore color names, and run stain tests on the new flooring, comparing with the old floor by laying the samples on the old stuff and seeing what blends. Sand and stain just like you will for the real floor. Doesn't have to match, just blend shades and have the same undertones. For oak, it's shades of golden and reddish brown. 2 - Pick three colors that are close to a match with the existing boards. Match the darkest, medium and lightest shades. For this floor, it's Minwax Golden Mahogany, Light Cherry, and Birch. 3 - Sand and stain the individual boards before installation. About 20% darkest, 20% lightest, the rest the middle shade. This mimics the natural variability on an old floor, where different boards have reacted differently to light. I shoved several pieces together and sanded and stained them as a group, then took them apart for install. I had to plane down the strip of new oak next to the pine because it was a teensy bit higher than the pine, just enough to be annoying. The trick is to plane a taper into the top of the new board so the height change is spread across the new board, edge to edge. It's a ramp, but on a tiny scale. The trick with the toilet stack's hole is to have a long strip running across the front and back of the hole: lay the boards so you have no seams within a foot or so of the hole. Those boards start at the tub and end well past the door opening. =============== Enduring ... Clean it and RENT IT! We have a roommate arriving Friday, a grad student. All the student is looking for is clean and functional. The vanity (to the right in the pics, under the window opposite the tub) is one of those oak things with molded plastic sink/top, which we might paint or do the cheap gel-stain trick on later this year. It's in great condition, but butt-ugly and not as functional as we'd like. Long term plan is - because this is a bathroom that needs storage and counter space - to build a wall-to-wall single-sink vanity under the window with shelves and shallow drawers. The overall house is, despite the adobe walls, a very plain Craftsman bungalow, so we're sticking to that woodworking style with NM trimmings and colors. New Mexico Territorial Style ... I've always liked it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Territorial_architecture Here is a link that might be useful: [New Mexico Territorial Style[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/new-mexico-territorial-style-phbr0lbl-bl~l_43230)

Thanks Holligator. I'm leaning towards the 112. I think it makes a nice statement. I'm just a little nervous of the 10" depth. I know sink depth has been discussed on other threads, but I'm still not quite sure! Thanks again!

I'm assuming you are using stock sizes rather than custom, which makes getting the ideal proportions a bit more difficult, but cheaper. It will also depend on how much molding you want to have. You could do 36" with 18" on top and no molding. This a more modern look rather than traditional. Or, you could do 3" of molding (which would be a little short proportionately, but fine for many homes) and then do 36" with 15" on top. Or you could do 6" of molding (more proportionate) and then 30" with 18" on top, which would be a little top heavy, or 36" with 12" on top, which would be a little bottom heavy. Or, you could do an even a taller molding of 9" and do 30" with 15" on top and then that 9" of molding. This would suit a more formal type home. If you had a good quality production cabinet line like Kraftmade that offered 48" tall ones, you could do that with 6" of molding. Cabinets taller than 42" are risky for warping though, and most cabinet makers will make you sign a waiver acknowledging that fact. This is why you most often see stacked cabinets rather than super tall ones.