Echeveria "Lola". Looking nice. Watering depends on your soil, if you haven't repotted this before, chances are the soil is too heavy and water-retaining and your plants will be prone to root rot, so I would look into proper succulent soil mix on this forum, 50/50 perlite and cactus soil is a quick fix. If you get your soil sorted out, watering them every 7-10 days or 10-14 days should be adequate. I'm mostly just copying/pasting what i said in your other thread, since you're asking the same questions

check out number 5 & 8 https://www.thehomeroute.com/11-different-types-of-ceiling-textures-for-your-home/ You can come close without a roller I had the swirl in a bathroom. I went over it with wall paper liner Not something you can do for a ceiling as my space was much smaller.

"Cut out the quartzite so the bracket can fit over it amd hide the bracket?" Probably your best bet. Screw the bracket to the wall studs behind the drywall and patch.

First question - does the pot have a drain hole? 2) How are you determining when it's time to water? If you're using the advice to water when the top inch or two of the grow medium feels dry, it's a near certainty you're over-watering; and, the fact that symptoms support that likelihood lends additional support to the suggestion over-watering is the culprit. 3) How long have you had the plant? 4) Do you know what brand of grow medium it's in? 5) Have you fertilized, used an insecticide or any other product other than water? If the plant is new, does your house/home have an ionic exchange water softener (uses salt and needs refilling from time to time)? This plant doesn't like wet feet, so it's better to allow the grow medium to go completely dry than to water while the grow medium deep in the pot is still saturated. There is SOME stress associated with allowing the plant to go dry, but the plant handles the stress well; and, the stress of going dry compared to the stress/limitations imposed by watering too frequently is rather insignificant. You can avoid both forms of stress by way of using a 'tell' to 'tell' you when it's time to water. See below: Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al