Here is the setup we're doing. We also have small bathroom and the coverage will be about 20 sq feet. Our shape is not straight rectangle so we've decided to do wires instead of mats. Yes, you can interchange mats/wires and thermostats between different manufacturers, it's the fact no manufacturer will admit. We will be putting Cerazorb for thermal insulation, RPM mats (perfect for wires, you can google it), Suntouch Warmwire (simply because the length of their 20 sq ft package is within a few feet of what we need, Warming System's package for 20 sq ft was cheaper but lengthwise was much smaller). I've bought Watts Radiant Loud Mouth Monitor, Aube Floor Sensing Thermostat TH115-AF-120S and extra sensor (total of 2) on Ebay, all much cheaper than straight from manufacturer. The thermostat doesn't have built-in GFI, which is fine, we will connect it to existing GFI circuit. Your case might be different. We will placing wires 2" apart, I think 3" is too wide as many mats offer. I think it's OK to put mats right under your feet at the vanity since it's raised, the rule is to keep it 2-4" from vanity if it's on a floor. Thermostat: you can get any thermostat as long as it has a floor sensor. Extra sensor is not necessary, but recommended in case 1 sensor fails. I would recommend getting extra sensor the same as original sensor that comes with thermostat. Alarms can also be interchangeable, again not necessary but helpful. The mats/wires do appear to be very similar. I'd recommend getting ones with good warranty and good customer service. I don't think Nuheat mats are significantly better than Warming Systems other than that may be they have more wires per mat.

I am having the same problem with a Stanley Quiet drive, that was installed nearly 14 years ago. It opened just fine this morning but now it won't close because the sensor just keeps beeping and thinks that something's in the way, but there's nothing there. I've unplugged the unit thinking that that might help but it didn't. I am also unable to manually close the door since the cord nearly ripped off when I tried to pull it to release the door from the opener. I can reach the unit & tried to release it without using the cord but it won't budge. The beeping is coming from one side and I noticed that when I wriggled one of the wires, the red light flashed in unison with my wriggling. I did not see a light on the other unit, as was previously suggested. We got our first real snowfall here and I really don't want to leave the door opened all night. HELP! P.S. I'm sorry that this forum appears to be mostly about garage door openers but the was the most active place that I could find to ask for help as I'm unable to locate the manual and don't think I should have to pay $7.50 to download something I already own but can't find--which I'm sure will miraculously appear once the problem's been corrected.

I see from the parts diagrams that it's Whirlpool's 27" dryer design, same as my Calypso Senseon dryer. It's a sturdy mechanical design, the drum has roller supports both front and back, unlike some dryers that have rollers in back with nylon or felt glides in front that don't last as long. However, the drum is very deep front-to-back, which gives small loads a lot of "elbow room" to tumble without contacting the sensor bars at the front. It has mechanical controls, not an electronic panel, so there are no built-in diagnostic routines to test the sensor*. There is a small electronic board for the moisture sensor circuit, which is likely OK since it dries OK with larger loads. Question: It really shut off in just five mins with a small load? That's a little unusual for a mechanical timer. Even with the moisture sensor basically signaling a dry load, the timer has to physically run the distance from the initial setting to Off, which should be more than 5 mins. For small loads, try setting the timer more toward the Very Dry or Extra Dry end of the scale, maybe even at the extreme end. That may work out for small loads to come out "normally" dried. Or is the diagram wrong and it does have an electronic panel? *There is something you could do to test the sensor, that may or may not work. If there's a separate temperature control to select Air/No Heat, *with* the timer on the auto-sensor cycle, you could run it with the door open, pressing the safety switch to override it, and hold a damp cloth against the sensor bars which should prevent the timer from moving. Remove the cloth, and the timer should move. It'd take several minutes holding the cloth both ways to visually confirm the timer is or is not advancing. HOWEVER, you'd have to be SURE that the gas burner won't come on running with the door open, because with the door open the airflow is wrong (pulled in through the open door instead of through the burner duct) and would cause it to overheat, possibly blowing the thermal safety fuse which would then have to be replaced. This won't work if Air/No Heat is a separate TIMED cycle on the timer, or if selecting Air on the temp control bypasses the moisture sensor circuit so that the effect is a timed cycle even on the auto-dry setting.

These kind of questions will start wars. I have the Canon XT, Olympus E500, Olympus E1. I enjoy all of the camera. I think the best bang for you buck is definately the E500. Best price for entry level camera and it comes with two kit lenses, and they are really good lenses. The colors are great, better than the XT in my opinion. Canon has better noise control in lower light, but that is okay with me. Another thing, Canon's aspect ratio is 3:2, Olympus is 4:3. 6x4 print: -- Canon - you use all 8MP with the ratio -- Olympus - you use just under 7Mp with that ratio Rusult- pretty much nothing, you can get a clear 6x4 print with 3 MP since its a small print. 5x7, 8x10 Prints: --Canon - you will lose about 2MP with these prints due to the ratio -- Olympus- better fits these print ratios, lose about .2MP on 5x7, lose about .8MP on 8x10. Results - when the picture is taken with proper technique it would be hard to notice a deference, but the more MP you can cram into the print the better (when using higher quality cameras and lenses, of course) Also, Olympus just announced two entry level models to be released this year - E410, E510- so the price of the E500 should be falling a bit. I migh tpick up a second body if the price is right. Just my opinions. ZJoe