For seeds and cuttings, the big danger is if the soil stays wet instead of moist. If your soil is one that hold moisture (like clay) it is not good. Perlite, pumice, sand, and volcanic sands increase drainage. Fast draining soils or light soils are good. Heavy,dark moist soils are not. Large pots retain more water and take longer to dry than small. Brittany's way of planting works well. Spray the soil surface with a spray bottle so it you controll the dampness. Plumie seeds will damp off or rot if too wet. She uses small pots- excellent. Transplant into larger pots when they are about the length of your finger. Do not fertilize until they have the second set of leaves (first real leaves) As far as putting outside, take into consideration the night temperature. If it is warm and balmy you can leave them outside. if cool, bring them in at night and place above a refigerator or a water heater or in a warm (not hot) spot. Good luck.

My Asko dryer used to do this. I faulted it's "butterfly" dryer design. The dryer paddles alternated - one row was toward the back of the dryer, the next toward the front, etc. This is supposed to help kick the dryer contents back and forth to avoid a constant rolling action that would ball up sheets. Unfortunately, it didn't work at all. There was no solution except to get a bigger dryer. I don't have this issue with my Miele W4842, but I also dry king size sheets and duvets individually in order to avoid wrinkles and creasing. A reversing dryer is also very effective at preventing items from balling-up. Miele, Electrolux and perhaps others have a reversing tumble.

Actually there are a number of options for taking macro photos. Technically speaking the term "Machro" means that you can produce an image on the film that is between life size and 10x life size. (Image magnifications greater than 10x actual size are referred to as "Michro Photography". Without question, the simplest and most user friendly method of producing Macro images is by means of a true Machro focusing lens. Call me old school if you like, but when I began my serious interest in photography back in 1966 Machro lenses were not yet even heard. The simplest method of producing Machro images with a manual camera is by means closeup lenses, but close up lenses often introduce some aspherical aberrations on the edge of the image. While I doubt that the average amateur would ever notice the difference, none the less, to a died in the wool purest, they offer the least quality in the final print, especially if you intend to make big enlargements. Another drawback is that the close up lenses block some of the light, which means you may loose an F-stop or two. The next method of producing Machro images is by means of a "lens reversing ring". The normal lens is taken off the camera body, then the lens reversing ring is screwed into the lens filter mount on the front end of the lens and the lens is then attached to the body backwards so that the rear element of the lens is now out in front. (This can only be done with manual aperture lenses or auto lenses that have an auto/manual switch lever). While this method does work very well, with no loss of light the downside is that you are limited in the amount of magnification it can produce. The next method is to extend the distance of the lens from the film plane by means of "Extension rings". Generally the extension rings come in a set of three rings, each of a different overall length. The extension rings are simply hollow tubes that fit between the rear of the lens and the camera body. The longer the extension, the greater the magnification, and the extension rings can be used singly or they can be stacked to further increase the extension, thus greater magnification. One advantage of extension rings is that you can get a set of "Auto-Extension Rings" which means the rings have the necessary internal mechanical linkages to maintain the cameras auto aperture function. (You can generally find both manual and auto extension rings in brand new condition for sale on Ebay for about $30 to $75) and if your willing to take your chances you may pick them up for half of that through the bidding process. Another advantage of extension rings is that there is no internal lens element so there is no loss of light. Now if you are a true purist and want the ultimate in machro images you must use a "Bellows Extension". A bellows extension has a metal frame with a lens board on one end and a camera mount on the opposite end with an accordian type cloth bellows that will extend or contract as you adjust the position of the camera or lens board. The adjustments are made by means of micro fine screw knobs on the frame. There is no mechanical linkage between the camera body and the lens board so typically you must us a manual lens to set the F-stop, however they do make high end bellows units that have an aperature control mechanism built into the lens board and it uses a dual shutter cable release so that when you press the shutter release one cable will stop the lens down on the lens board while the second cable will press the shutter release to snap the picture. i once used my 1966 Pentax Spotmatic body with a Pentax Auto-Bellows and a Pentax 50mm f1:1.2 Auto-Tacumar lens to shoot a Ladybug sitting on a rose petal, and I got a full image picture of just the face of the ladybug. i later had that image enlarged to 11x14 with full clarity. Here again, you can always find brand new extension bellows units on Ebay for immediate sale or you can take your chances on bidding and perhaps save a lot of money. NOTE: When searching for a Bellows also look for "Bellows Slide Duplicators". To duplicate 35mm slides they use a bellows that has a special second bellows and slide holder. They can be used as either a slide duplicator or the slide holder can be removed and the main bellows used for Machro. In fact, My Pentax Auto-Bellows originally came with the slide duplicator attachment. Now if you are really serious about shooting a lot of macro there are a couple other accessories that will prove invaluable. 1.Right angle finder. Generally when shooting machro images of insects, flowers or other natural subjects you will be using your camera at a very low angle. Most SLR cameras have two small slots on either side of the eyepiece to allow attaching a rubber eyecup or other accessories. A right angle finder snaps on the eyepiece and extends the eyepiece at right angle to the camera body. In this manner when shooting a low angle you can place the camera close to the ground then look straight down into the eyepiece as if you were looking in a microscope. Come of the extension eyepieces even offer a slight magnification to aid in focusing, and there are even some that can be fitted with a corrective lens so that people who wear glasses can use the eyepiece without glasses. 2.Quite often when shooting extremely close machro shots the camera and lens will be so close that they cast a shadow and normal flash is difficult to use in this situation. If you are serious about shooting a lot of machro you might want to consider a "Ring Light". A ring light is a circular flash unit that attaches to the front of the lens and it will produce shadowless lighting on the subject. 3.When making machro images the depth of field is always extremely limited when compared to normal photography. For best results one should always use a tripod or other means to support the camera and insure it will remain steady during the exposure. If using a Machro zoom lens you can generally get by with a basic tripod, but most tripods will only close down to about 18" high and that means you will generally be looking down on the subject. For very low angles you might want to use a small table top tripod that is only 5 to 8" high, of course you would then need the angle finder eyepiece mentioned above. I hope this information was not too confusing and be of value to you Richard

You have to go to customer service instead.