dang it....I had a really well though out response all done, and my internet explorer crashed. So I'll try again...lol!! First...a few comments regarding how koi ponds compare to aquariums. Normally, aquariums are lightly stocked with small fish. It's really easy to keep the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate cycle operating perfectly in a correctly stocked environment. Same as a rock bottom pond...lightly stocked and properly maintanied it can work. In a pond's bio filter, ammonia is converted to nitrite and then to nitrate. Nitrate is most easily removed froma koi pond by way of regular water changes. Ever try to keep an aquarium with goldfish? Many goldie keepers I know keep no gravel in the tank at all, because of maintenance. That gravel gets really filthy very fast. I had a lovely goldie tank once....and gave it up. the maintenance was a nightmare! I'd rather deal with a huge koi pond any day of the week. Some people are reporting sucess with rock bottom ponds and no maintenance. Again...it is directly related to stocking levels. I hope these ponds continue to perform well for years to come, but for the vast majority of people, they will not. Most watergardeners install their ponds (and rocks) and then run out and buy a bunch of adorable little 5" long koi. The koi grow.....fast. They produce mountains of fish waste, which all gets trapped in the rocks. But because the pond looks clean, the owner is lulled into a false sense of security and does not think that there is a thing wrong, until the fish start dying or the fins start rotting off. Then they do one of two thing....they learn where they went wrong and correct their mistakes, or they just buy new fish (which is unfortunatly what most people do). Matt...you are on the right track with your new pond. You certainly can install your bottom drain now and add the rest of the system later. But instead of using a pipe cap, install a 4" ball valve on the end of the line. The water can't be permitted to sit stagnant in the unused drain line for too long or it will start developing the dreaded hydrogen sulphide gas. Opening that valve every couple of weeks and allowing the water to flow out for a couple of minutes will prevent the problems. I am attaching a link to the Atlanta Koi Club's web site. They have an excellent pdf that explains a lot about how a koi pond works, water quality, stocking levels, how much biofiltration is needed and many other wonderful facts. Cindy

Thanks for sharing threads. I can use this format and estimate of cost of a whole system in future. I am also waiting for the reply.

In the initial post, Tia explained: "I've been toying with the idea of making my own unique pots, but I was going to try it with polymer clay baked in the oven before I commit to getting a kiln." Making polymer clay pots at home and curing them in your oven costs far less than purchasing an expensive kiln to fire your own terra cotta pottery. Tia's original question was "are polymer pots breathable?" The answer is "No." "Clay" is often used to describe many different types of modeling material. Hence, polymer clay, paper clay, modeling clay. None of those are actually made of clay. Different modeling compounds can be either air-cured, oven-cured, or kiln-fired. See here for a more detailed explanation: http://newclaynews.blogspot.com/2011/06/types-of-modeling-clays-explained.html Tia, I was going to suggest looking in your local craigslist, YMCA, or community college to find pay-per-use studio time and kilns, so you can pursue your foray into ceramics without committing the expense of buying and running a kiln. You may even find a home hobbyist with a kiln who would be willing to fire your pots for a fee or barter. And if you make pots, be sure to share your work with us here! :)

Damping off symptoms can be caused by any number of very common and ubiquitous fungal diseases. I'm a firm believer that the symptoms can be avoided. I've never had a problem with damping off....not in my greenhouses as a professional nor in my garage as a hobbyist. (Knock on wood) Careful attention to pre-season sanitation practices is very important. I spend a little time sanitizing my germination flats, the shelving, my tools, everything in the vicinity of my germination area. I germinate the seeds over heat, but grow on in pretty chilly conditions. I try to strike a balance between temperature, relative humidity, soil moisture, and light. I operate a small fan at all times. I have, however, never watered anything from below in my life. Here's a pretty good Fact Sheet about damping off