We got a couple of inches overnight too, but we also have the warmer temps forecast for Friday. So i guess this isn't quite permanent yet. Won't be too long from now, though. Twenty-five years ago on this day, we had just had our first big snowfall of the year, and dh had worked overtime plowing the highway. I was extremely pg, and the joke had been that i'd go into labour during the first snowstorm of the year. Guess what! LOL My daughter was born that evening. :)

It depends on whether it was running when you unplugged it or not. If it was, there is usually a 'safety' cutoff timer that won't let it turn back on for several minutes. This has to do with overstressing the compressor. With a regular refrigerator/freezer, the coils are in the freezer side. There are a set of defroster heaters that run through the coils. Every once in a while (12 hrs?), the compressor stops and the defrosters turn on. The ice that has built up thaws and runs down to the bottom, draining out into a pan beneath the fridge. This water eventually evaporates. Problems happen when the defroster stops working or the drain fills with ice. If it were me and I had a place to store every thing, I would unplug it and let it thaw completely. I would look for the coils and the drain to see that they were clear. I would check out this 'split', though I suspect you were seeing insulation more than ice, but who knows. After all this, I would wipe it down with some disinfectant and turn it back on, fill it up, and go for another 5 years.

Hi, OP here though I haven't been on this thread in several years... safemommy, I just measured my top and bottom freezer drawers, and 13.5" is exactly how far my drawers extend. I've removed the ice cube tray with that extension, but I don't think I've ever tried to remove the entire compartment. Paula Piekos, about three years after I got the replacement unit, my center rubber seals split, but I was able to get an authorized repairman to order and replace the seals, I did not have to order a whole new door. I am talking though only about the middle whether the two doors come together, not the ones that go all around perimeter where the door seals against the body. But I do vaguely recall that parts and labor for that came out to about $350, wasn't cheap. The new ones have been on for about seven years now, and are starting to split in one place - I try to wipe down the contact areas on the seals to reduce friction to keep them longer. When the repairman came, I was going to try to observe how he replaced those center seals, so I could do it myself next time, but I got distracted. I know they simply slide on and off; however, there's one or two hard plastic parts that he removed to get access. Thankfully I've had no major problem with the replacement fridge over 10 years. Occasionally the upper freezer drawer would mysteriously ice up and be hard to open/close; turns out if the ice scoop handle sticks up too much it prevents the drawer from being fully closed. The small fan at the bottom of the unit, behind the screwed on grill, got out of balance and off-center, and started to make horrible screeching, and took two repair visits to replace the fan and motor. But otherwise has worked reliably....

I can see it has been quite a while since this post. I can thoroughly relate to you tivy. I have a great room with 5 doors that are visible. They must all match because it would drive my OCD brain crazy. The other doors are half lite doors. to allow light into the space and provide views of the beautiful garden. My BF and I argued for months during the remodel regarding the doors. he finally gave in and acquiesced to a matching half lite door for a bathroom. The doors i chose were not privacy glass. I merely purchased the stick on privacy sheeting and fit it in the clear door panel quite nicely. Judging by the pictures provided that door seems like it is it to heavy looking for the space. Maybe try a half lite door? As I did. It allows light but all you see is the chest up?