Sprinkle corn starch & baking soda liberally, let sit overnight, vacuum.

Call friend to come over & sniff!

I wish you the best.

You're probably ok since you used the Urine Gone and made the right move by sticking with the enzyme cleaners. Your only worry would be if it soaked into the the carpet pad. If you think that's a possibility, just pour some of the enzyme cleaner on the worst area and let it soak in, then blot thoroughly (I step on a towel to soak it up).
Buy a hand-held black light to check your home for any areas you may have missed. You can find them online or at most pet stores. Also, you can find enzyme cleaners for cat urine at the pet store.

I hope you have referred to the voluminous other thread(s) already on this topic.

I'm beginning to think there's no good solution for flooring for cats at all.

I have a blacklight just for this purpose because I can't smell. I've found wet urine doesn't fluoresce, and about half of dry urine doesn't fluoresce either. I think it probably has to do with how dilute the urine is, and what compounds are being passed in it.

I hope you're right Ann. I've been using enzyme cleaners for about 20 years, but without any sense of smell, it's hard for me to ever feel confident that they've really done the job, and people tend to be too polite to tell me if they smell something, even when they know I don't have a sense of smell, so I really NEED them to be straight with me. The landlord won't be too polite to keep my deposit though. :-\

Thanks for your help, guys. Wish I could let you if it worked, but... I might never know.

I haven't used it, but Amazon has a blacklight with good reviews for about $15.

The best and the cheapest solution which is working for me is the Isopropyl Alcohol. It removes the odor instantly, but you have to spray it at the exact location of a pee spot.

it is hard to get the odor of cat urine out of the carpet if the cat urine has soaked through the carpet and through the carpet cushion. the cat urine reaches the floor beneath the carpet cushion, which then continues to cause an odor because it cannot be cleaned up since it has already penetrated through the cushion. if you are ever looking to get a new carpet, check out the stainmaster petprotect carpet. if you buy the stainmaster carpet cushion with the petprotect carpet, then it helps reduce the pet odors. here is a link to the website where you can learn more about the carpet for pets: https://www.stainmaster.com/carpet/petprotect

Here is a link that might be useful: stainmaster petprotect

The best product to use in your case will be OdorKlenz. the product is great at removing pet and cat urine odors and doesnt contain any masking agents or fragrances. The end result will be that your apartment smells clean and odor free. it will be perfect for your management company as they wont have any red flags raised when they walk in your apartment and is is full of scents

Here is a link that might be useful: OdorKlenz Pets

You may also be able to pull up the edge of the carpet, replace the pad under it (just cut out a section, no need to replace entire room and replace with similar pad) scrub and paint the floor boards, return pad and new pad section, and then put carpet back in place. Carpet is pulled tight over the tack strips (boards with nails poking out) but you may be able to replicate the stretch yourself if the carpet's been installed for a while.

I usually use a white vinegar, water and baking soda.
First, you need to mix vinegar and water then pour it over the stain. After that, rub a handful of baking soda into the affected area and allow it to dry overnight. When the baking powder is dry vacuum it up.

Find a baby-sitter type teen to investigate your apartment for you. Younger peoples' sense of smell is better that older folks.

I pour hot water on the area then soak it up by putting rag towels on it and standing on the area to try dry it out a bit then I sprinkle baking soda on the area rub it in let it dry out then vacuum it up and then I redo this again until I cannot smell the urine any more works well because when we get home after not being home for a while we can not smell it at all. Using the dehumidifier to help dry it out works well too. Getting on top of it quickly is best also don't leave it to long to clean up.

I'm having a similar issue. I tried enzyme sprays, a portable carpet cleaner and baking soda but I can still smell a little bit of it. I suspect that it may have soaked into the carpet padding. Try to prevent your cat from peeing in the same spot because once it is in the padding, it is impossible to remove!!! Put something in the spot or cover it up with a pee pad to catch any more pee. Keep it from reaching the carpet padding if you can. Good luck!!!

I recommend SUN (Severe Urine Neutralizer), Some have suggested that a fresh urine spot should be
treated with white vinegar to neutralize and flush the urine from the carpet.
This is NOT what should be done. Vinegar is an acid. You cannot neutralize an
acid with an acid. A better approach would be for the home-owner to blot up any
urine she can without forcing the urine deeper into the carpet.

http://www.removeurineodors.com/sun

THIS IS WHAT WORKED: (and probably I didn't need it all):

"Fresh &Clean" by Lambert Kay. It's an oxygen cleaner for sale in the pet section. Dog and cat photo on blue & white bottle. Just pour it on and let it work. Magic. Probably any decent peroxide/oxygen cleaner works just as well, but that's the one I used.

"Kids &!Pets" enzyme cleaner- available at Walmart in the cleaning section. Yellow bottle. Spray in on and let it work. Probably any enzyme cleaner is just as good, but this one is cheap and easily available, so that's what I used.

I used both products repeatedly because I was so paranoid about the odor, but probably just one or the other once or twice would've done it. I have since treated many spots with just one or the other and the stain disappears in seconds and people say they can't smell anything.

So don't waste your money on a bunch of expensive, proprietary cleaners. Enzyme and peroxide cleaners will completely remove the odor and stain, and the belief that urine odor is difficult or impossible to remove is just an outdated urban legend. Removing it is simple, cheap, and easy.

Fred has never commented on anything before. It appears that he and a couple of other people signed up for Houzz specifically to market their products or websites. Don't fall for it. Urine is not generally acidic. Sometimes cat urine can be slightly acidic when it leaves the bladder, but the nitrogen compounds that cause the odor are alkaline. The more like ammonia the odor smells, the more nitrogen compounds in it (from bacteria breaking it down ), and hence the more alkaline the urine is. Vinegar is at best unnecessary, and probably entirely myth though. Just use an enzyme or oxygen cleaner, and be done with it. No scrubbing. Just blot up the excess, pour on some cleaner, and forget about it.

Fred is a spammer. Report it.

Hi! Still hunting the web for answers? Hard core emergency with large areas?

Unfortunately, enzyme cleaners cannot completely remove the bacteria/protein combination which creates this potent bouquet. Nor will vinegar, but it breaks the protein bonds really well. Baking powder will neutralize odors on the air or surface, but cannot kill the odor-causing bacteria. Please, beg of you! do not use lemon juice on … well, really anything but wood/lemon oil treatments in your home, and no applying oil anything over protein stains! Walk by the clove oil antibacterial cleaners this time! And no, pure ammonia will not cause a pet to re-mark the area. I read that on several sites and was discouraged indeed! The proteins in the urine are what triggers the re-mark habit.

Please mask and ventilate area with fan first!

For big areas, try the following 3 part solution:

1 part water to I part:

Pure ammonia

or

at least 70 percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol

or

Tgel .5% minimum coal tar ( best on hard wood, and must be poured boiling)

-for tgel or sulfur cleaners, a half cup to very hot water in standard bucket size.

Add a capful of laundry detergent for bigger container (bucket) solutions, or a tablespoon of dishwashing liquid. Smaller or less than gallon solutions, a teaspoon.

Let sit minimum two hours, then wash off with detergent. Best to dry again to test odor. The dying bacteria will release all kinds of noxious fumes, so the detergent step is necessary. Or apply solution again. Repeat. This may take several attempts.

For the utterly committed, there is a final step, but if you used ammonia — by far the most powerful non-bleach antibacterial — I do not advise this, or only if all else fails.

Yep, bleach, but it can never, ever be used directly on an unwashed urine stain. Detergent washing will remove the ammonia used, or in a fresh pet potty stain. But ammonia mixed with bleach creates hazardous, even lethal chemical gases, so wash and blow dry the stain at least three times BEFORE bleach! Required!

Same solution as above, on bleachable fabrics only. Best method is a thick powdered bleach paste, mixed with hot water.

I have worked rehab jobs with clients who wish to save hardwood flooring. And rescue home purchases the same. If a pet has repeatedly used the floor, I am afraid there is only one solution to this problem, today’s science permitting — they must be sanitized with ammonia. Ammonia will permanently stain unvarnished or partly varnished wood flooring. Wash then bleach method may be too dangerous, as wood may be saturated with pet ammonia. After that, a distressed paint look may be applied. I love this look, clean and country fresh! The other option is darkest varnish.

A happy home is filled with life and live, especially pet love. And real love means real workbooks! If you arrived here, your heart truly fills a home with the greatest of furball love! Wishing a a happy and clean home to you all!